Awlgrip??
09-06-2007, 05:03 PM
#12
Registered
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info guys.
Here's where I currently stand. Right now I'm just working the transom, and would like to get the hull (below chine hull - running surface) done over the fall before winter sets in.
Last weekend I stripped everything off the transom except the drive housing itself. Got all the nicks/scratches filled, and sanded out the area that was patched in (a little sloppy - I wanted to clean it up) when it was converted from a TRS boat to a B1.
I got primer shot on the transom, and need to go back over it just a little to touch a few things up.
I thought that I'd read that awlgrip can be brushed or rolled on, and then sanded smooth if done in a short amount of time??
When it comes time for the hullsides (chine to rubrail) I'll take it to some one and have them shoot it (different color than hull and transom so the color break line is no problem) - I know my limitations, and I don't have a lot of experience with spraying.
I don't have a shop to be doing this in, so yes I'm working in my driveway.
Just trying to get as much done that I can do on my own, and in the confines of my workspace.
But, I don't want it to look like a 10 yr. old did the work either.
Here's where I currently stand. Right now I'm just working the transom, and would like to get the hull (below chine hull - running surface) done over the fall before winter sets in.
Last weekend I stripped everything off the transom except the drive housing itself. Got all the nicks/scratches filled, and sanded out the area that was patched in (a little sloppy - I wanted to clean it up) when it was converted from a TRS boat to a B1.
I got primer shot on the transom, and need to go back over it just a little to touch a few things up.
I thought that I'd read that awlgrip can be brushed or rolled on, and then sanded smooth if done in a short amount of time??
When it comes time for the hullsides (chine to rubrail) I'll take it to some one and have them shoot it (different color than hull and transom so the color break line is no problem) - I know my limitations, and I don't have a lot of experience with spraying.
I don't have a shop to be doing this in, so yes I'm working in my driveway.
Just trying to get as much done that I can do on my own, and in the confines of my workspace.
But, I don't want it to look like a 10 yr. old did the work either.
Last edited by bouyhunter; 09-06-2007 at 05:39 PM.
09-06-2007, 05:11 PM
#13
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You cannot sand the Awlgrip. The technique is "roll and tip" You roll on a thin coat and tip it off with a fine bristle brush. There are several video primers on the subject if you are going to do it. This stuff hates high humidity. Buy some and apply it to a piece of plexiglass or scrap glass or something first to learn coverage and application.
09-06-2007, 05:24 PM
#14
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
My father uses Awlgrip alot for is profession, you will probably never believe it unless you see it but you can roll awlgrip and never know the difference between spraying it.
Get a test piece if you wish.............
But they use a special ( FOAM Roller ) and if you use a brush
then they use a ( Badger Hair brush ). The results are unbelievable.
Again call Tim Wallinga that I gave ya the number for and he can give ya the details and tech tips. When Tim got into the business the gentleman he was working under was restoring old cars.........Jaguar's etc. and he would paint these whole cars with a badger hair brush out of a dixie cup. The paint goes three to four times as far rolling it vs. spraying it.
Good Luck
Jon
09-06-2007, 05:38 PM
#15
Registered
Thread Starter
You cannot sand the Awlgrip. The technique is "roll and tip" You roll on a thin coat and tip it off with a fine bristle brush. There are several video primers on the subject if you are going to do it. This stuff hates high humidity. Buy some and apply it to a piece of plexiglass or scrap glass or something first to learn coverage and application.
Awlgrip is a very wet paint, so in saying so it's pretty much a self leveler too.............or can run like crazy too.
My father uses Awlgrip alot for is profession, you will probably never believe it unless you see it but you can roll awlgrip and never know the difference between spraying it.
Get a test piece if you wish.............
But they use a special ( FOAM Roller ) and if you use a brush
then they use a ( Badger Hair brush ). The results are unbelievable.
Again call Tim Wallinga that I gave ya the number for and he can give ya the details and tech tips. When Tim got into the business the gentleman he was working under was restoring old cars.........Jaguar's etc. and he would paint these whole cars with a badger hair brush out of a dixie cup. The paint goes three to four times as far rolling it vs. spraying it.
Good Luck
Jon
My father uses Awlgrip alot for is profession, you will probably never believe it unless you see it but you can roll awlgrip and never know the difference between spraying it.
Get a test piece if you wish.............
But they use a special ( FOAM Roller ) and if you use a brush
then they use a ( Badger Hair brush ). The results are unbelievable.
Again call Tim Wallinga that I gave ya the number for and he can give ya the details and tech tips. When Tim got into the business the gentleman he was working under was restoring old cars.........Jaguar's etc. and he would paint these whole cars with a badger hair brush out of a dixie cup. The paint goes three to four times as far rolling it vs. spraying it.
Good Luck
Jon
This is exactly the info I was looking for.
By saying that it is a very "wet" paint, I'm assuming you mean watery?? Does this allow for a longer working time if I need to "tip" it? I get the concept, but would probably want to try a practice piece before I put it on the boat.
Next question, doing this in the manner I intend to on the running surface itself, I'll likely need to work in small areas at a time. What kind of cure time, and how well will this "cut" back into a previously covered/cured area?
Jon,
Thanks for the contact info. I'll give him a call and get some advice.
09-06-2007, 05:45 PM
#16
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It does not "cut back" into a previously cured area well. You usually paint from an obvious break point to another like the chine to the rubrail and the transom clear to the bow. You can't sand it and blend it like a regular paint.
09-06-2007, 05:47 PM
#17
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Search for a video online from Interlux regarding application of their "Perfection" product. It is a two part urethane like Awlgrip that is applied the same way. There is an online tutorial with video I have seen somewhere.
09-06-2007, 05:50 PM
#18
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
By wet.................yes water but dry's with that wet look too.
If you buy a quart you actually have two quarts sprayable by the time you add reducer etc.
My father just sprayed some more parts for me, first three coats we sprayed reduced. 4th coat we sprayed with out reducer cause we want a little thicker product.
We were working with red and it can sometimes be tricky acting like it's transparent. Put the forth coat on with out the reducer and they look beautiful.
We sprayed both the the mil spec primer and the epoxy primer on friday night. Saturday at noon went over everything with scotchbrite and then sprayed color.
I picked everything up monday morning before work.
It's workable for assembly etc. at that point but ya still have to be careful. 30 days and ya have bullet proof product.
You have alot of work time it's a slow product and we even kicked it with a few acceleraters to speed it up. But seems to me it dry's slower than traditional paint.
Seems Tim has three different products, slow medium fast for your reducers and how quick you would like to work with it.
Jon
If you buy a quart you actually have two quarts sprayable by the time you add reducer etc.
My father just sprayed some more parts for me, first three coats we sprayed reduced. 4th coat we sprayed with out reducer cause we want a little thicker product.
We were working with red and it can sometimes be tricky acting like it's transparent. Put the forth coat on with out the reducer and they look beautiful.
We sprayed both the the mil spec primer and the epoxy primer on friday night. Saturday at noon went over everything with scotchbrite and then sprayed color.
I picked everything up monday morning before work.
It's workable for assembly etc. at that point but ya still have to be careful. 30 days and ya have bullet proof product.
You have alot of work time it's a slow product and we even kicked it with a few acceleraters to speed it up. But seems to me it dry's slower than traditional paint.
Seems Tim has three different products, slow medium fast for your reducers and how quick you would like to work with it.
Jon
09-08-2007, 12:11 AM
#19
Registered
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: long island, newyork
Posts: 2,551
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
actually you can wetsand and polish awl grip after being applied by boller/ brush method.
i have done this before, and it works very well, just dont expect turn around times to be great.
temperture is key. the surface needs to be PREPARED correctly AND up to TEMP. another words if you plan on doing in the garage or during the off season pick a warm day, and maybe even use a portable heater of sorts under , in and or around the area your painting prior to application.
i have done this before, and it works very well, just dont expect turn around times to be great.
temperture is key. the surface needs to be PREPARED correctly AND up to TEMP. another words if you plan on doing in the garage or during the off season pick a warm day, and maybe even use a portable heater of sorts under , in and or around the area your painting prior to application.
