Swimdeck construction
#1
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Swimdeck construction
I know I will get blasted for this but...
I am building a swim platform for my Sea Ray. It is large enough for me to rig up my dive gear and stride off. So far I have built a plywood core that I plan to cover with West Epoxy and fiberglass cloth. I am worried that a wood core this large might warp under the glass. Can I take my router and cut kerfs on the bottom side and then fill with the thickened epoxy to form a hard grid. the wood is two 3/4 plys epoxied together. I was thinking about kerfs around 1" deep and between 1/4" and 1/2" wide on 6" grids. Any good recomendations?
Here is the deck with the bond curing
And for those wondering about the holes...Sea Ray vents
Thanks
I am building a swim platform for my Sea Ray. It is large enough for me to rig up my dive gear and stride off. So far I have built a plywood core that I plan to cover with West Epoxy and fiberglass cloth. I am worried that a wood core this large might warp under the glass. Can I take my router and cut kerfs on the bottom side and then fill with the thickened epoxy to form a hard grid. the wood is two 3/4 plys epoxied together. I was thinking about kerfs around 1" deep and between 1/4" and 1/2" wide on 6" grids. Any good recomendations?
Here is the deck with the bond curing
And for those wondering about the holes...Sea Ray vents
Thanks
#2
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Re: Swimdeck construction
I wish I had a large enough platform to get geared up on! Lookin' good, what are you going to finish it with? You would want something durable because tanks can really be hard on stuff.
Before just filling the kerffs with thickened epoxy, I would do one with a release (wax paper, poly?) and remove the filled material after curing, mabe a couple with different additives, possibly even multiple layers of cloth with the excess epoxy squeegeed out. Then you could do your own test to see the structural properties yourself.
Extra work, but just an idea.
Before just filling the kerffs with thickened epoxy, I would do one with a release (wax paper, poly?) and remove the filled material after curing, mabe a couple with different additives, possibly even multiple layers of cloth with the excess epoxy squeegeed out. Then you could do your own test to see the structural properties yourself.
Extra work, but just an idea.
Last edited by resurrected; 04-06-2006 at 06:10 AM.
#3
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Re: Swimdeck construction
I wouldn't scarf the wood. I would add several ribs under the platform that will line up with the support brackets from the transom. If the lamination is done correctly and the schedule is correct the wood has nothing really to do with warping. The plywood core add bulk and compressive strength the glass adds the stiffness. Think of it like an I beam.
Also your should route over all the edges of the plywood to a nice easy radius, this will help you contour your glass. And do the same to the ribs is you decide to add them. Your also going to have to leave distance from the plywood to your Sea Ray "hatches" for the thickness of the glass, resin, fairingcompound and gelcoat or paint. Take the time to dry lay all your mat and make sure it fits. This will save you coutless mess once it's all wetted out and the clock is ticking.
Be sure to have ample brackets because that's gonna be one heavy part.
What laminant schedule are you using? If you are going to limant with west system be very careful of the amine blush. I would use MAS Epoxy Low Viscosity resin with the medium or slow hardner depending on the temp.
Also your should route over all the edges of the plywood to a nice easy radius, this will help you contour your glass. And do the same to the ribs is you decide to add them. Your also going to have to leave distance from the plywood to your Sea Ray "hatches" for the thickness of the glass, resin, fairingcompound and gelcoat or paint. Take the time to dry lay all your mat and make sure it fits. This will save you coutless mess once it's all wetted out and the clock is ticking.
Be sure to have ample brackets because that's gonna be one heavy part.
What laminant schedule are you using? If you are going to limant with west system be very careful of the amine blush. I would use MAS Epoxy Low Viscosity resin with the medium or slow hardner depending on the temp.
Last edited by Catagory5; 04-06-2006 at 06:39 AM.
#4
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Re: Swimdeck construction
I will be routing all my edges. This will sit on an a stainless frame for support. After the fiberglass is applied I am going to cover the top with hydra-turf non slip padding. I have generally sanded the blush on my other projects. I may also switch to vinylester to keep some of the cost down. I plan to prime and paint then cover the top with turf.
#5
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Re: Swimdeck construction
Brackets will have to be plenty strong. A platform that large could have severe loading in both directions, from the water on acceleration and the divers on the deck. I don't know for sure, but just another consderation.
The ribs would be much easier than filling a scarf.
The ribs would be much easier than filling a scarf.
Last edited by resurrected; 04-06-2006 at 09:34 AM.
#6
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Re: Swimdeck construction
I have found that washing or sanding blush from a large part between laminants is a real pain. In your case, outside in your yard, you should be fine.
Polyester or vinylester will save you some money and should be fine for this project. You just have to move fast. Keep the part out of the sun while your laminating or you'll never get it rolled out correctly befor the resin kicks.
Polyester or vinylester will save you some money and should be fine for this project. You just have to move fast. Keep the part out of the sun while your laminating or you'll never get it rolled out correctly befor the resin kicks.
Last edited by Catagory5; 04-06-2006 at 08:13 PM.
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Re: Swimdeck construction
I'm working on the same project for my wife's ski boat. i'm using 2 layers of 1/2 inch nidacore glassed together. No worries about rot. I would never use wood for a swim platform. To many worries down the road
#9
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Yes, and had I seen this thread earlier, I would have suggested it to the guy. Plus go with vinylester. No need to spend the x tra $ on West. Unfortunately I dont have any pictures of the finished platform