Looking for TOUGH bilge paint
#1
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Looking for TOUGH bilge paint
After reading several pages of search results that deal mostly with "bling factor" Im still looking. I dont really care about shine or finish becase the boat is too old and the bilge layup is rough.
I need something tough that comes in white and can be rolled/brushed on. I have 2 cans of BilgeKote sitting here but I'm not sold on the durability factor of a one part paint.
I need something tough that comes in white and can be rolled/brushed on. I have 2 cans of BilgeKote sitting here but I'm not sold on the durability factor of a one part paint.
#2
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Rustoleum 9100 2-part epoxy. We use it on machinery and it's as tough as it gets. Pretty much impervious to oil & gas. They have a water immersion activator for it that allows it to be used submerged. It kills a little gloss and isn't really necessary for a bilge. They also have an accelerated activator that speeds recoat times with no durability sacrifice- definitely recommended. The stuff goes on with a 2" roller very nicely and flows out well- don't over-roll.
Grainger is the best source for it. You definitely will need three of those cheap drill-mount mixers for it as well as several 2-gallon buckets. You'll have to pre-mix the components before blending and you can't do it in the can without losing a bunch of product.
Grainger is the best source for it. You definitely will need three of those cheap drill-mount mixers for it as well as several 2-gallon buckets. You'll have to pre-mix the components before blending and you can't do it in the can without losing a bunch of product.
#3
Why not re gelcoat it? Its the easiest and most durable finish you can put in there plus it has a much better ability to smooth out the original raw glass finish. Toss in some Duratech and it will cure out with a pretty good gloss that is easier to keep clean.
I used the Rustolium epoxy in the canopy of the raceboat when i put in the new superstructure. Bomber stuff and it covered good but yea the accelerator knocked down the gloss a little. Worked really well though.
I used the Rustolium epoxy in the canopy of the raceboat when i put in the new superstructure. Bomber stuff and it covered good but yea the accelerator knocked down the gloss a little. Worked really well though.
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
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10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
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I painted my bilge a few days ago with sherwin williams dura plate 235. That stuff gets hard as a rock but it turned yellow after a couple of days. I am going to go pick up some awgrip and put another coat on. i want it to be bright white. I dont know why the dura plate turns yellow. Sucks though it turned out nice.
#5
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Bilge Paint
Ameron PX 9000 is what I have used for years. Durable enough to clean up spills with acetone. Excellent gloss retention, two part epoxy type coating.
It's not cheap, but lasts through the years and can be custom tinted. It can be hard to find and may not be readily shipped. I have product available if required.
It's not cheap, but lasts through the years and can be custom tinted. It can be hard to find and may not be readily shipped. I have product available if required.
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I used Carboline's carbogaurd 893 2 part epoxy. Has a great shine and resist gas and oil for easy clean up. 2 gallons is about 100 bucks. I did my bilge with 2 coats and also the top and bottom of my hatch when i had to modify it and still had 1.5 gallons left.
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Awl grip (sno white) is the only way to go.
Clean with powder cleanser and abrillo pad, rinse, dry, and roll/brush it on. It will look like you sprayed it and will last a couple decades.
Forgot to mention, it is extremely glossy which is great for cleaning.
Clean with powder cleanser and abrillo pad, rinse, dry, and roll/brush it on. It will look like you sprayed it and will last a couple decades.
Forgot to mention, it is extremely glossy which is great for cleaning.
Last edited by Todd Hartigh; 04-07-2008 at 09:36 PM.
#10
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AWLGRIP again is the only way to go. Cures in a couple days full cure in 30 days and it's near bullet proof at that point.
If you go this route make sure you use the regular AWLGRIP
not the AWLGRIP 2000,.........regular is tougher.
Fuel's, oil's etc. don't touch or stain this stuff.
When this stuff first came out about 15 to 20 years ago it only came in silver. My father was using it back then ........but to give you an idea of it's durability they were even putting it on the underside of the comercial lawn mower decks.
Gave a nice release for easy cleaning and it took the beating.
You can't beat the shine it's right there and above Imron.
I put the white in my engine bay also.
Jon
__________________________________________________ _________________
More Info i dug up from a thread in the past.
Awlgrip Rep:
Tim Wallinga 616-785-0013
Restores boats himself also so he is very knowledgable on the product as well as the real world.
Awlgrip is a very wet paint, so in saying so it's pretty much a self leveler too.............or can run like crazy too.
My father uses Awlgrip alot for is profession, you will probably never believe it unless you see it but you can roll awlgrip and never know the difference between spraying it.
Get a test piece if you wish.............
But they use a special ( FOAM Roller ) and if you use a brush
then they use a ( Badger Hair brush ). The results are unbelievable.
Again call Tim Wallinga that I gave ya the number for and he can give ya the details and tech tips. When Tim got into the business the gentleman he was working under was restoring old cars.........Jaguar's etc. and he would paint these whole cars with a badger hair brush out of a dixie cup. The paint goes three to four times as far rolling it vs. spraying it.
If you go this route make sure you use the regular AWLGRIP
not the AWLGRIP 2000,.........regular is tougher.
Fuel's, oil's etc. don't touch or stain this stuff.
When this stuff first came out about 15 to 20 years ago it only came in silver. My father was using it back then ........but to give you an idea of it's durability they were even putting it on the underside of the comercial lawn mower decks.
Gave a nice release for easy cleaning and it took the beating.
You can't beat the shine it's right there and above Imron.
I put the white in my engine bay also.
Jon
__________________________________________________ _________________
More Info i dug up from a thread in the past.
Awlgrip Rep:
Tim Wallinga 616-785-0013
Restores boats himself also so he is very knowledgable on the product as well as the real world.
Awlgrip is a very wet paint, so in saying so it's pretty much a self leveler too.............or can run like crazy too.
My father uses Awlgrip alot for is profession, you will probably never believe it unless you see it but you can roll awlgrip and never know the difference between spraying it.
Get a test piece if you wish.............
But they use a special ( FOAM Roller ) and if you use a brush
then they use a ( Badger Hair brush ). The results are unbelievable.
Again call Tim Wallinga that I gave ya the number for and he can give ya the details and tech tips. When Tim got into the business the gentleman he was working under was restoring old cars.........Jaguar's etc. and he would paint these whole cars with a badger hair brush out of a dixie cup. The paint goes three to four times as far rolling it vs. spraying it.
Last edited by cougarman; 04-08-2008 at 11:34 AM.