US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

After removing both of my transom assembles, I had water coming out between of the transom layers on the SB side of SB cutout. The port side of the cutout appears dry, as does the remaining half of the transom. I tapped around the cutout with a claw hammer and the area in question sounds soft. It appears to be the lower 1/2 of the cutout on the 1 side. When tapping on the inside and outside of the transom around the cutout, it sounds solid, but I'm assuming that's a false test, since it obviously had water in there.

I think the next check is to drill some holes from the inside to check the extent. Is it possible to section in new wood in the bad area, and then some, providing I can get a good overlap with good wood, depending if the layers can be split?? I don't want to get into replacing the whole transom if it's not needed. This boat has a 10' beam, so I assume it has to be sectioned/overlapped anyways. Just not sure were joints are allowed, or what needs to be spanned in order to maintain the integrity.

I've read all the transom replacement threads here, but those all involve complete replacements.

Thanks

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

Sounding should actually be done with a light tack hammer and very seasoned ear. Yes i would drill some holes to see just how far the wet wood goes, thats the best and most accurate way. Hate to say it but as a rule of thumb you will only be able to detect about one third to one half of the actual damage and the rest will show itself upon tear down. Its probably going to be just as labor intensive to patch it as it is to do the whole transom anyway. Not trying to sound discouraging but i wouldn't want to have to de rig the boat to do the other side next year. Poke a few holes under the dry side transom assembly and go from there. good luck . . . . we'll get ya through it

oh . . . . and the answer to your signature line is Ginger AND Mary Ann

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Dave. I'll do some drilling and report back.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Ok , I beat the chit out of it with a hammer tonight. Not sure what I was listening for, so I compared sides. The side in question does sound a little more hollow if I had to describe any differences in sounding. Then got out a 1/4" drill (large enough?) and drilled deep enough to go thru the wood only. The wood appeared somewhat darker and a little easier to drill than the good side. I did drill 2 holes down low near the drain plug and got a small dribble out of those holes. Maybe a tablespoon or so, but still water none the less.
The problem is the boats weight is supported on keel blocks with 6 stands for stabilty and I have no trailer, so can't take it anywhere.
If I go ahead and remove the wood, how do I make sure the bottom doesn't push up since the stringers will not be attached? Do I support the rear at the rear corners and let the bottom 'hang', or will the FG layer keep the transoms profile?

Thanks.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

You'll want to support the edge of the keel and the hard chines evenly also at the corners of the transom and you'll be fine. It helps that you arent pulling the stringers.

The key to sounding is actually light tapping and audible changes in pitch. The guy that does my surveys is amazing. He only uses a small tack hammer, gave me the tutorial one time on a boat i was buying. Learned a lot and i have been in the biz for a while

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Tapped on it lightly tonight. There is some changes in tone, but mostly when closer to the bottom or stringers where there is some additional material. I drilled a couple of the 1/4" holes out to 1/2". The 1st layer looked good, but then the second layer was black. Down by the drain hole it looked more black thruout, yet it sounds solid as a rock when tapping. Have you ever heard of using PLexus as the adhesive to bond the plywood sheets in, instead of resin and fiberglass? I question that, but only becuuse never heard of it before.

Thanks.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

tapping and sounding a transom really has to be done with a seasoned ear. My survey guy found stuff with his little hammer i had no idea was there and i been doing this for years

for us, drilling is the next best way. I try and catch everything from each new hole separately and see if i can get water out of it. I dont see why you couldn't use Plexus to bond the panels together but i would with the supplier to make sure, I've never used it on wood.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I was planning marine plywood, but it seems the majority vote for exterior grade. I forget the name I ran across in 1 of the threads that was recommended/used in 1 of the jobs.. Aucrate???? It is a 3/4" 7 ply ext. plywood, but read were it has void in it. Would marine plywood be best with no reservations for transom coring?
I'm wanting to do this right and only once.
Also, with winter coming on and the boat is in a non heated pole barn, does this effect being able to do the FG work? I might be able to build a tarp over the boat and heat with a Reddy Heater. And if chit blows up, consider this project done.

I've leaning towards Epoxy resin with a fast cure hardner since the outside temp is working in my favor for longer working time.
Thanks

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

More thinking. When considering a full height panel, it won't slide down between the 2 tall middle stringers and the transom. It will be to tall to fit under the deck and clear the 2 stringers. There is a 6" above the transom for the swim platform cavity, while the middle stringers are at least 12". I see 2 options, cutting the stringers back (which I'm not sure/comfortable about doing at this point, but that seems to be the recommendation on the' How To Do It' websites) to be able to tilt the panels in place, or to seam the panels horizontally. In that case, is it accceptable to have a seam running thru the transom cutouts? What is the rule for overlaping amount?

The stringers appear to be solid 2x since the motor mounts are lagged into the top. Don't think plywood would work there.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Making headway. Appears the leak is originating from the drain holes for the rear hull corner cavities. The holes were drilled, but the wood wasn't sealed. Both sides have the same water stains. Now just gotta figure out how water is getting in the rear cavities, when those holes are a good several inches above water level, and the boat has always been under a covered slip. This is with 2 layers removed, 5/8" and 3/8". Still have a 3/8" layer to go.