Oxidation
03-07-2010, 02:38 AM
#11
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Poli is the worst case if you can't bring your shine back or passing the buck to someone else. It works well for what it was designed for, the last option only. If you have to remove it pack your lunch.
Griff,
You know my OR is a heavier cut, but those PQs were striped in like the Bajas. I've buffed a few Bajas back to life, but I've also had to wetsand a few as well.
The DA does make the job a ton easier, but unless you're experienced there's a greater risk of damage. You know you need the exercise anyway Bert.
I'm kinda surprised that you went down to 800 though. I usually only reserve it for the worst of the worst. Be gentle with it because the marks will show. The 1000 is my usual norm if the boat is chalky.
Enjoy your hard work Bert and let myself or one of the other guys know if you need anything.
Donnie
Griff,
You know my OR is a heavier cut, but those PQs were striped in like the Bajas. I've buffed a few Bajas back to life, but I've also had to wetsand a few as well.
The DA does make the job a ton easier, but unless you're experienced there's a greater risk of damage. You know you need the exercise anyway Bert.
I'm kinda surprised that you went down to 800 though. I usually only reserve it for the worst of the worst. Be gentle with it because the marks will show. The 1000 is my usual norm if the boat is chalky.
Enjoy your hard work Bert and let myself or one of the other guys know if you need anything.
Donnie
Last edited by marineclean; 03-07-2010 at 02:46 AM.
03-07-2010, 10:59 PM
#12
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I went to the auto paint supply store, purchased one below the heaviest cut 3m makes. It still didn't come close to wet sanding or Leverage OR. I wet sanded the port side of the boat this weekend, it rained here so it made it go a lil faster. My neighbors think I'm nutz sanding my boat by hand in the rain. Yes it's a bit*h but I can't seem to get the results without it. I definitely need a much better compressor, I purchased a cheap small one just to do my engine work, so the cfm is very low. I should have done this last year and it wouldn't be so bad. I've done several test areas using different combination of products. But nothing works better than the 800, Leverage OR with the harbor freight sander, padded with wool over top, and then the Leverage Polish. I have been throwing the 3M after the wet sanding and then the OR just to use up the 3M.
Additionally my stripes are vinyl, cover-ups for the original stripes.
Donnie,
How much of the polish is a protectant? A lot of people on here use wax, since reading your posts I haven't used any. But am I going to have go through this every year?
Additionally my stripes are vinyl, cover-ups for the original stripes.
Donnie,
How much of the polish is a protectant? A lot of people on here use wax, since reading your posts I haven't used any. But am I going to have go through this every year?
03-08-2010, 02:08 AM
#13
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My Polish is a polymer protectant. It's for shine and protection. One of the differences between my polish and conventional waxes is the cover up.
I designed my polish for a true shine, so it's not going to cover anything up. If there's imperfections you'll be able to see them with my polish, but with the steps you're taking the shine should be perfecto. Just make sure you use the OR last before polishing.
Some compounds contain additives that don't mix well with polymers. Aqua B. doesn't want you to use anything that has a cleaning agent because it will streak/remove their compound. Just do what you're doing with pictures if possible and the hard work will speak wonders.
The future of the boat is how you maintain. Fresh water and a towel to maintain. Very mild soap if you need to wash. Once you go to wetsanding buffing is required once per year, but then it depends on how the boat is stored. If it's in the sun everyday then buffing will be needed. If you store it under cover when not in use and maintain it then buffing maybe every few years at most. You'll see how easy my Polish is to use, so applying 2x per year doesn't get any easier. Follow my years of labor/knowledge that I post and she should always look new Bert.
I designed my polish for a true shine, so it's not going to cover anything up. If there's imperfections you'll be able to see them with my polish, but with the steps you're taking the shine should be perfecto. Just make sure you use the OR last before polishing.
Some compounds contain additives that don't mix well with polymers. Aqua B. doesn't want you to use anything that has a cleaning agent because it will streak/remove their compound. Just do what you're doing with pictures if possible and the hard work will speak wonders.
The future of the boat is how you maintain. Fresh water and a towel to maintain. Very mild soap if you need to wash. Once you go to wetsanding buffing is required once per year, but then it depends on how the boat is stored. If it's in the sun everyday then buffing will be needed. If you store it under cover when not in use and maintain it then buffing maybe every few years at most. You'll see how easy my Polish is to use, so applying 2x per year doesn't get any easier. Follow my years of labor/knowledge that I post and she should always look new Bert.
03-08-2010, 11:07 AM
#14
Charter Member # 55
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Poli is the worst case if you can't bring your shine back or passing the buck to someone else. It works well for what it was designed for, the last option only. If you have to remove it pack your lunch.
Griff,
You know my OR is a heavier cut, but those PQs were striped in like the Bajas. I've buffed a few Bajas back to life, but I've also had to wetsand a few as well.
The DA does make the job a ton easier, but unless you're experienced there's a greater risk of damage. You know you need the exercise anyway Bert.
I'm kinda surprised that you went down to 800 though. I usually only reserve it for the worst of the worst. Be gentle with it because the marks will show. The 1000 is my usual norm if the boat is chalky.
Enjoy your hard work Bert and let myself or one of the other guys know if you need anything.
Donnie
Griff,
You know my OR is a heavier cut, but those PQs were striped in like the Bajas. I've buffed a few Bajas back to life, but I've also had to wetsand a few as well.
The DA does make the job a ton easier, but unless you're experienced there's a greater risk of damage. You know you need the exercise anyway Bert.
I'm kinda surprised that you went down to 800 though. I usually only reserve it for the worst of the worst. Be gentle with it because the marks will show. The 1000 is my usual norm if the boat is chalky.
Enjoy your hard work Bert and let myself or one of the other guys know if you need anything.
Donnie
I know my friends PQ has grapics painted in Imrom from the factory. His in a 2001 I think. They must have switched from in gel to the paint before that.
03-24-2010, 05:54 PM
#15
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I need to get in on this thread, my boat has HEAVY oxidation on the top portion ( where the sun hits it) sides are good. After reading through threads I apparently was doing all this wrong. I always thought start with the rougher paper and step up to the finer grit paper and then compound and then wax/polish it... Now I have done this in the past and come out with great results but from what i read its not correct so I just tried with 1500 grit to start then buffed it and just a little difference so i went to 1000 and then buffed and its better but doesnt really " shine" like it should. Maybe I should go to 800? Also I see little white specs in the blue which I havent a clue what that is. And I know youre supposed to use a certain pad for buffing and a certain pad for polishing but I dont remember which one was which!!! I know the paint can come to a shine Im just trying to get the scoop on how...
10-13-2011, 07:50 AM
#16
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Oxidation Turned To Brillant Shine!!
