Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > Fiberglass and Paint
32 Spectra Deck MODS >

32 Spectra Deck MODS

Notices

32 Spectra Deck MODS

Thread Tools
 
Old 05-20-2010, 06:26 PM
  #1  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NW Michigan
Posts: 8,302
Received 1,491 Likes on 806 Posts
Default 32 Spectra Deck MODS

Hi guys,
I poste some time ago regarding my 32 spectra project. I just got started on the project yesterday afternoon. I basically cut out the area in front of the dash panel and then the windscrean section. I am trying to utilize what the material I have. As you can see by the pictures I need to do some cutting on the section I am trying to place in where the windscreen use to be. This is pretty much an appearance thing while reducing a little headroom in the cuddy. My concern is the distance/gap I need to fill on the sides as the width was different. Is is OK to fill this gap even if it is about 1 1/2". I still plan to use the 1 to 12 pitch method on both joining sections however I will need to glass the 1 1/2" gap between the two from the underside first I think and then do about the normal procedure on the top side in layers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John
Attached Thumbnails 32 Spectra Deck MODS-200912250013.jpg   32 Spectra Deck MODS-p5200116.jpg   32 Spectra Deck MODS-p5200117.jpg  

32 Spectra Deck MODS-p5200118.jpg   32 Spectra Deck MODS-p5200120.jpg  
getrdunn is offline  
Old 05-20-2010, 06:28 PM
  #2  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NW Michigan
Posts: 8,302
Received 1,491 Likes on 806 Posts
Default

more pics

You can see where I haven't trimmed off the sides of the forward section I am going to glass in. It will lower down and fit snug front to rear however it's the sides where there will be the larger gaps that need to be filled along with fabricating the inner raised section. WOULD IT BE BEST TO MAKE A CUT DOWN TRHOUGH THE MIDDLE OF THE SECTION I AM REPLACING AND LINE THE SIDES UP SO THEY FIT TIGHTER SINCE I WILL BE GLASSING ANOTHER SECTION UP THE MIDDLE WHERE THE ORANGE SECTION IS. THAT ALMOST MAKES MORE SENSE BUT THEN AGAIN I HAVE NO IDEA. I'm not sure how to do that yet but that will be after everything else is in place and roughed in. Any ideas on that part? It is the orange area.

Thanks again,
John
Attached Thumbnails 32 Spectra Deck MODS-p5200124.jpg   32 Spectra Deck MODS-spectra%252032%252024%252020%2520026.jpg  

Last edited by getrdunn; 05-20-2010 at 09:16 PM.
getrdunn is offline  
Old 05-20-2010, 06:32 PM
  #3  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NW Michigan
Posts: 8,302
Received 1,491 Likes on 806 Posts
Default

The picture on the right above is a finished project of the same make year and model of my boat. I plan to paint it Canary yellow with some black stripes. I have a lot of work ahead of me but you have to start somewhere. bottom left picture is another original boat and the one on the right is mine before the starting of the deck mods. The I have a friend up for a couple of weeks and we plan to get as much done as possible. Any help on glassing together sections with larger gaps in areas would be a big help.

Thanks very much.

John
Attached Thumbnails 32 Spectra Deck MODS-32%2520%2520spectra.jpg   32 Spectra Deck MODS-78%2520spectra_.jpg  

Last edited by getrdunn; 05-20-2010 at 06:59 PM.
getrdunn is offline  
Old 05-20-2010, 09:08 PM
  #4  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NW Michigan
Posts: 8,302
Received 1,491 Likes on 806 Posts
Default

I was also wondering if the wider gaps I have to fill along the side would be best if I did it like I have seen repairs done on the sides of boats. It's where the stretch a siran wrap over the repair tightly and then go over it with a rigid cardboard and do the repair from the inside. It's much more difficult to work in the cuddy plus everything would be done upside down. Ultimately I am just looking for the best all around strength with the least amount of final finish work. LOL...

Input would be great as I am moving forward quickly.

Thanks very much.
John
getrdunn is offline  
Old 05-20-2010, 09:58 PM
  #5  
Neno the mind boggler
VIP Member
iTrader: (1)
 
glassdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: toledo oh
Posts: 13,069
Received 271 Likes on 96 Posts
Default

Hi Jon, Yes you can bridge a gap that big on the sides no problem. But first, are you going to cut the center section out to raise it or are you going to glass on a raised portion to the outside, basically build up a bulge to meet the old one?

by the way a trick that was given to me by a friend that use to work at Skater for working with laminates that will be placed upside down is to add a little cabosil to the resin. Works like a charm.
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )

Last edited by glassdave; 05-20-2010 at 10:00 PM.
glassdave is offline  
Old 05-22-2010, 09:54 PM
  #6  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NW Michigan
Posts: 8,302
Received 1,491 Likes on 806 Posts
Default

Thanks Dave,
I decided after looking at it a little more is to cut the forward section down the middle or another words in half. That way the sides will be a much closer fit and I can bridge/glass the two in the middle. I can glass that and it will be covered anyway. What is the best material to use to match that center raised portion (buldge). I have read about some type of foam. Is that what I should do or otherwise cut to shape, and glass down some type of wood to match. Also what would be the best way to fill in the remainder of the window?

Thanks,
John

Last edited by getrdunn; 05-22-2010 at 09:59 PM.
getrdunn is offline  
Old 05-24-2010, 12:14 AM
  #7  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NW Michigan
Posts: 8,302
Received 1,491 Likes on 806 Posts
Default

What is the best cloth to use? 1708? Or should I use a couple different types to end up with the smoothest finish top cloth for paint.
getrdunn is offline  
Old 05-24-2010, 05:47 PM
  #8  
Neno the mind boggler
VIP Member
iTrader: (1)
 
glassdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: toledo oh
Posts: 13,069
Received 271 Likes on 96 Posts
Default

1708 or 1808 (there pretty much the same) and i would probably step up to a vinylester resin to make finish work a little easier. Epoxy is of course the best but its sometimes difficult to work with mostly because of work times and limited compatible surface finishing products. On something like this i would do the bulk of the inside work before i ever touched the outside. Get everything set where you want it and tabbed in then work the outside surfaces, I call the process "stitching it together". I would do everything with 17 or 1808 and grinder finish all of it to 36 grit then maybe recess the last little bit on the outside for some ounce an a half chop to try and control print through a bit and anything beyond that could be faired with 3M's Premium Marine filler. At that point it should be very close to a final surface and I'd toss on three or four coats of a waxed jelcoat to finalize it.

Heres the 3m Premium, i love this stuff.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...Premium+Filler

everything else you can get at

http://uscomposites.com/
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )

Last edited by glassdave; 05-24-2010 at 05:49 PM.
glassdave is offline  
Old 05-24-2010, 05:49 PM
  #9  
Neno the mind boggler
VIP Member
iTrader: (1)
 
glassdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: toledo oh
Posts: 13,069
Received 271 Likes on 96 Posts
Default

btw? have you made a decision on ester or epoxy yet?
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
glassdave is offline  
Old 05-27-2010, 07:40 PM
  #10  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NW Michigan
Posts: 8,302
Received 1,491 Likes on 806 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by glassdave
btw? have you made a decision on ester or epoxy yet?
Thanks Dave,
I plan to use the vinylester. I have to look back however just need to see if you mentioned if I could use it for the final top coat. Also I decided to grind back about an inch on the bottom side where the bridges will be. Kind of a 1/3 on the bottom side and a 2/3 on the top side. All the sections are coming together well. What is the best way to grind the glass. Currently I am using an air grinder with no backing but have about 4 disc on it. They are about 5" in diameter. I thought about the electric dewalt with a harder stone but was a little worried about it getting away from me so to speak with taking to much off in areas where I don't want to. However I would really like to stay as consistant as possible with the tappering. I also plan to really strengthen up the underside with a few extra wider stips of cloth as well as ad some deck stringers for a little extra strength as well. There was a lot of flex on the deck before I even started the project and would just like to reinforce it by glassing in some either plywood strips or others even 1x4". Even if it takes up a little head room. Currently after cutting into this I found they had glassed over what appeared to be cardboard v-shaped stripes from the forward part of the deck to near where the windscreen started. They really didn't do anything as far as I am concerend. They are about 15" apart and an extremely light layup. I would like to glass in something a little more rigid. Any help there would also be appreciated.

I'll continue to take some more pics the further along I get.

Thanks very much for the help.

PS If you feel there is no reason to grind back an inch taper on the underside of the bridge sections just say so. I just thought It may ad a little extra strength.

John
getrdunn is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.