getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

Just wondering how many layers typically would take wetted out to obtain 1/4"? Just got back to my project and it looks like it might take appx 6 or maybe more. Does this seem about right? Thanks,
John

PS Also in regards to a couple air pockets I got that are about the size of a nickel or so. Can these just be ground out and filled with resin and glass prior to next layers?

Velocity Vector

iTrader: (4)

Are you building another one of those sex machine tables?

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

I just did some work on a transom the other day with some 1700 and it took me about six or seven layers to get just shy of a quarter.

Yea you can just grind any imperfections out and glass those back in.

C_Spray

iTrader: (2)

Where do you use the 1708 versus the 1700? When do you want the mat versus just cloth?

Panther

I think when you're using Vinyl vs. Epoxy. Not needed for Epoxy.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

##08 for any esters and ##00 for any epoxy use. Mat becomes a weak link in the laminate when used with epoxy not because of binders but the random orientation of the fibers. Thats why we used no mat in you Bat lol . . . . .

C_Spray

iTrader: (2)

OK - Now I remember...

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

No I already mastered one my friend. Chicks dig it. You might want a set of my prints and get your fingers sticky. LOL.. Hopefully you'll see my final product on ebay soon. Listed right next to your trophy truck spoiler.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Dave,
I just got a little concerned as I was thinking the 1708 I got was to thin or not the ounce it was tagged for. Actually it didn't have an ounce on the label but did have the 1708 triax on it. It's not biax so I hope that is OK or I have a lot of work ahead of me that I really wouldn't look forward to. The 1708 I am using seems to work rather well and forms nicely as well as wets out. I like to work with it but just wanted to confirm I was within reason. If you check back on my other thread here and see the pics of the layed back fiberglass I didn't make it exactly 12/1 however I have it within reason I feel considering its's a deck and will glass in a frame structure to help support the glassed in areas. My widest piece of glass was about 5 1/2" and some areas only 5". I laid the glass down almost opposite as most starting out with my widest stip building up with the smallest. I did this only because of some of the iregularities in the bridging areas and thought it would be easier after the first layer hardened off to keep it as smoot (air free) as possible.

Air pockets:
I have been so careful however a few spots gotted overlooked but they were pretty small so I will do as mentioned.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Dave,
I just got a little concerned as I was thinking the 1708 I got was to thin or not the ounce it was tagged for. Actually it didn't have an ounce on the label but did have the 1708 triax on it. It's not biax so I hope that is OK or I have a lot of work ahead of me that I really wouldn't look forward to. The 1708 I am using seems to work rather well and forms nicely as well as wets out. I like to work with it but just wanted to confirm I was within reason. If you check back on my other thread here and see the pics of the layed back fiberglass I didn't make it exactly 12/1 however I have it within reason I feel considering its's a deck and will glass in a frame structure to help support the glassed in areas. My widest piece of glass was about 5 1/2" and some areas only 5". I laid the glass down almost opposite as most starting out with my widest stip building up with the smallest. I did this only because of some of the iregularities in the bridging areas and thought it would be easier after the first layer hardened off to keep it as smoot (air free) as possible.

Air pockets:
I have been so careful however a few spots gotted overlooked but they were pretty small so I will do as mentioned.