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-   -   Building a new engine hatch - any pointers? (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/fiberglass-paint/265382-building-new-engine-hatch-any-pointers.html)

Rottiguy 11-08-2011 07:23 PM

Very good prices too.

tcelano 11-08-2011 08:24 PM


Originally Posted by glassdave (Post 3545023)
That's pretty cool, I get a kick out seeing advanced do it youselfers think outside the box. I have been palying with Rhino for a couple years and that's a good way to use the program to your advantage by rolling out the surfaces. Nice work

Thanks GlassDave, compliment appreciated. I've read many of your threads and learned lots from them.

I'm pretty fast with Rhino, as I use it for the front end for most of my structural, lofting, hydrostatics and FEA programs. If anyone on here ever wants something modeled up, we can do that.

502ss 12-09-2011 12:54 PM

Okay so the basic structure of the hatch is built. I ended up going with a piece of 1/2 plywood with some 1x3 white oak bracing on the bottom. Now the next step is what to use for mat & resin? I would like to put only 1-2 layers of mat on the top side and then maybe 2-3 layers on the bottom tying all the supports into the plywood. The top side will be completely covered with an hatch pad so it doesn't need to be glass smooth, the bottom needs to look okay.

My thought is to use the 1708 mat as it comes highly recommended but not sure what I should use for a resin? Is there one that works particularly good with the biaxial mat?

Thanks
Jim

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...b/8beafbf2.jpg

502ss 12-10-2011 07:41 PM

ttt

scippy 12-10-2011 08:39 PM

I think Vinylester resin would be your best bet with the 1708, but for it to kick properrly it needs a work place temperature of atleast 70 degree's

502ss 12-10-2011 10:31 PM


Originally Posted by scippy (Post 3568670)
I think Vinylester resin would be your best bet with the 1708, but for it to kick properrly it needs a work place temperature of atleast 70 degree's

Thanks!

I am building the hatch in a heated garage so keeping the building warm shouldn't be a problem. Have you used the vinylester resin before? How does it lay down? I need something that is going to give me the most rigidity when paired with the 1708. People will be walking, sitting on the hatch and I want to have very little flex!

Thanks
Jim

scippy 12-11-2011 12:51 AM


Originally Posted by 502ss (Post 3568721)
Thanks!

I am building the hatch in a heated garage so keeping the building warm shouldn't be a problem. Have you used the vinylester resin before? How does it lay down? I need something that is going to give me the most rigidity when paired with the 1708. People will be walking, sitting on the hatch and I want to have very little flex!

Thanks
Jim

Like yourself, I decided to build my own engine hatch (see post #10) I'm no pro, but I was pleased with the results of 1708 & vinylester resin. The only difference was I used 1/2" balsa core. The only ply I used was around the perimeter for some bite............seal the plwood first with resin (let it soak in good with a roller) let it dry overnight. Rough it up with 60 grit before you put down 2 layers of 1708 ....top & bottom.

502ss 12-11-2011 08:05 AM


Originally Posted by scippy (Post 3568749)
Like yourself, I decided to build my own engine hatch (see post #10) I'm no pro, but I was pleased with the results of 1708 & vinylester resin. The only difference was I used 1/2" balsa core. The only ply I used was around the perimeter for some bite............seal the plwood first with resin (let it soak in good with a roller) let it dry overnight. Rough it up with 60 grit before you put down 2 layers of 1708 ....top & bottom.

Sorry, missed your first post!

That hatch looks great! So you used 2 layers of 1708 on each side of that cover? Can you stand on it? How much does it flex?


I was thinking of going with the West system epoxy resin because it doesn't seem to be as sensitive to mild temperature variations during cure and isn't as toxic to work with. I also read that in the end it is stronger than a vinylester resin? It is a little more expensive than the vinylester resin but not too bad!

This is what I was looking at

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...5+Epoxy+Resin#

ROTAX454 12-11-2011 09:14 AM


Originally Posted by Rottiguy (Post 3545317)
I had one made out of foam, only weighed like 70lbs. I could jump on it and it doesnt flex at all, very strong.

Have any pics of the hatch installed that we can see? Trusting that the hatch in your posted pic is for your 3100 AO, what is the "dip" in the forward area of the hatch?

scippy 12-11-2011 12:01 PM


Originally Posted by 502ss (Post 3568806)
Sorry, missed your first post!

That hatch looks great! So you used 2 layers of 1708 on each side of that cover? Can you stand on it? How much does it flex?


I was thinking of going with the West system epoxy resin because it doesn't seem to be as sensitive to mild temperature variations during cure and isn't as toxic to work with. I also read that in the end it is stronger than a vinylester resin? It is a little more expensive than the vinylester resin but not too bad!

This is what I was looking at

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...5+Epoxy+Resin#

Yes 2 layers of 1708 top & bottom........remember, I course of1708 is conprised of 17oz. bi-axle & 8oz. Mat.....so, in actuality it's 8 total layers of glass used. I can stand on it and it doesn't flex.

I've used Epoxy & 17 oz. bi-axle to glass the hull & deck together. It is a stronger resin, better sealer for wood, has better temperture tolerance and better strenght ratio with less glass. It is expensive and you don't need 1708 .....17oz. bi-axle alone would work the best.


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