Pokher Ace

Whats best way to fix this? In process of gutting the cabin this spot came out all in one piece.

Pokher Ace

Dave maybe you can help me out on material list. I want to do coosa and epoxy unless theres something better. how many 1/2" and 3/4" sheets you think I would need? MAt? Epoxy? Make sure your exact because I will charge you for any overages

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

lol. . . . ok but you gotta send the extra stuff. Yep Coosa and 635 epoxy is great for that. How bigs the boat? your signature only says Fountain and no mention of length but i know you Fountain guys are sensitive to that . . . . .

Pokher Ace

Its a 42. I finally talked myself into cutting the tanks out because of the front bulkhead being bad, besides after the dreaded demo is over with it will be much easier to work on everything. Im not to familiar with the slow, med, fast hardeners I have only ever used poly and the epoxy sounds easier to work with. the boat is garage kept in a heated/ cooled garage but I perfer working in 50 to 60 temps. Let me know what you think. I plan on doc evrything and write it all up once its near completion

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

post some pics of how you have the hull supported

c_deezy

iTrader: (1)

Wow, that is pretty bad. That coring looks like it will need to be cut out and replaced as well, at least in the spot shown in the picture. Seems like there are quite a few 42's that have lamination problems leading to rot.

Being an amatuer myself, I found that poly was easier to work with than the 635 epoxy. Even with the time constraints. Also you material cost will be at least double (more likely triple) using epoxy and coosa, compared to using plywood/polyester that the boat was built with, just something to keep in mind. Your boat last this long with lousy manufacturing using poly and plywood, if you do a decent job with the restore it will definitely last longer than you will probably have the boat.

Vinylester is a good compromise for cost vs. strength, I used vinyl on my transom and then switched to poly from a local supplier. I did the majority of my layups around 65 degrees and as long as I mixed in the correct hardener ratio never had a problem with the vinyl/poly curing and with the slightly lower temperature had decent workability time.

BUT if you decide that epoxy and coosa is the route to go, you should have a lighter, stronger boat in the end. Just trying to pass along some of what I learned when I went through the same thing myself...

hallj

Dave,

Have you used polypropylene honeycomb on any projects?

Jeff

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

not as of yet, it really does not fit in with any of the stuff i normally do. Realistically about as techy as i need to get is epoxy and Coosa. These a lot of cool stuff out there but in the real world much of the tried and true methods fill the bill. 90% of what i do is vinylester and standard bi-ax laminates and for all intensive purposes it exceeds much of the necessary properties i am looking for. The most important thing you can do is a good thorough prep and strive for a well balanced laminate, those alone will do more for the strength and quality of a job.

I have some poly/Hcomb samples around here somewhere, haven't really messed with it though. Looks like it would be a cool floor that would same some weight.

ren3

Jeff, honeycomb systems lend themselves to floors and bulkheads. I have used Nidacore in two hulls for floors, decks, and curved bulkheads above the floor. It is a great way to save a lot of weight and still get an impressive I-beam type of composite. I have not used it as a substitute for Baltek end grain balsa or foam like Coosa in hull laminations. Google Nidacore and peruse their site. They are in Florida.

hallj

Decks and floors maybe, but not a structural bulkhead.
No shear strength.

Jeff