fuelcustoms

can you gel coat over it ?I went on there website and could not find anything.


QUOTE=Bottoms Up;3644188]I have had success with interlux barrier coat covering balloons, epoxy,and anything you can think of it goes over and seals it. Then sand and over coat with anything.[/QUOTE]

Bottoms Up

yabut only in spots,when it is used it is usaully in an under the water application due to osmosis blisters. Back in 2000-2004 I was repairing LARGE boats under warranty and we would gel peel the boat down to raw glass. Tool it back with west system then 2000 barrier coat,then some paint for under the water line shipped in from Canada? Can't get it any more......

c_deezy

iTrader: (1)

Why not use cabosil filler instead? ...or did you already use the microballons?

I used cabosil and epoxy, then coated/faired with duratec primer, then gel-coated and haven't had any issue with delam. This was on my rear bench seat.

Steve 1

Phenolic Microballoons are one thing, Glass bubbles are another, and I have great success with 3-M Glass bubbles in my shop made fairing compounds and top coating that with duratec, gelcoat or paint systems.

fuelcustoms

I already used 3m glass balloons for fairing with west systems. Im just not sure what to do know.I was sold on the duratec vinyl ester filling primer until it they said not to use over mircoballons in the instructions.now duratec poly primer instructions say nothingabout using it micro balloons.I just dont know how the standard duratec poly primer would do on under water repair even though the boat is not in water over night ever.Im thinking about using theduratec vinyl ester primer and just coating the glass balloon filler with pure west system resin to seal th balloons.Im confused what you you guys do? I really want to gelcoat the repair.
Thanks guys for all your help.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

The problem isnt the microballoons, the problem is the epoxy. I suspect microballoons hold the amine blush harder and will cause the ester system to not cure. I have tried Duratec VE over an epoxy faired running surface with a barrier coat and in the end i did not feel comfortable with it and chalked it up to nothing more then a bandaid to allow ester products over epoxy. I ended up taking all the epoxy fairing off and went back to a vinylester fairing system and gelcoat (this particular project had to have a gel final surface) . Very expensive lesson for me. Anymore if i use epoxy the final finish will be an automotive or marine paint system. If i use vinyl or poly the option is open to anything from gel to paint. Call me old school but i have just never been comfortable with anything put paint over epoxy. Coating the entire surface will not do anything to help the situation. Unless you can find a suitable barrier you only option is some type of automotive paint/primer system. Do you need further fairing to the surface? Is that why you want to use Duratec VE? Just curious, trying to give best advice i can.

Steve 1

MicroBalloons are a Very different animal from Glass bubbles for one,Now since you are using Epoxy, you should stay with the "Epoxy friendly paint systems and primers" to avoid any future peeling problems.

Dave sorry I did not see your post,I am the same way when it comes to epoxy.

fuelcustoms

no fairing is done.I just wanted to use the duratec as a tie coat for the epoxy and gelcoat.I was thinking of the ve duratec primer because it is a under repair.That is the only reason.They said the standard duratec is not for under water repairs.Thanks
again

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Steve, thats good to know that you feel the same way. I sometimes second guess myself on that issue thinking maybe there is something out there i havnt tried yet. As of yet I'm just not comfortable mixing these two systems

Well unfortunatly having an epoxy repair really ties your hands here. This is actually the reason i generally steer people away from epoxy surface repairs unless it is absolutely necessary. VE is a great primer and works well with all ester systems but i've not yet been able to safely tie it to an epoxy repair. When i do epoxy surface repairs i usually fair it to about 180 and keep it pretty true (as in finish sanded accurate enough to not need a heavy fairing primer) then seal with PPG's DP-48 epoxy primer. My goal is always to keep film built as low as possible so by finishing to a high level it allows me to use only the DP-48 as a finish primer. I let it dry for a couple days so it can be fine sanded after that i may do a light seal coat again then straight to PPG's single stage Concept.