scarabman

iTrader: (1)

The consistency of my Totally Buff seemed a little off as well. Pretty lumpy, almost like cottage cheese. Tried another time today on white gel, with a DA at about 2800 rpm to see if it might gain different results or scratches would be invisible on White. Different scratch pattern, obviously, but scratched just the same. Definitely heading for the trash

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

I get my best results with it if i start in the 2000rpm range but as the product breaks down i ramp speed up significantly. Almost seems like its the later speed that aids in the diminishing property, i am crankin pretty good towards the end at basically full throttle while burning the shine out. This may be the "old School" in me but ive always thought gel needs heat and friction to get the shine out, thats basically why wool and grainy/course compounds work better.

scarabman

iTrader: (1)

Your product support is better than the companies! To be fair, I will give it more shot at higher rpms, per your suggestion, and see what happens. The 3m I get good results with at around 1800 but I hate the way it clogs the pad all the time. Also tried Presta Max Complete compound, but think the 3m works just a touch better. the Presta is much easier to use though!

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes i think Kevin (owner of FOY) is semi retired lol.

Give it a shot, rock that buffer with some speed and heat, i work the product hard till its gone from the surface and buffer is at about full toot. I will say this though, detail methods are sometimes unique to the individual. Personally ive never once got decent results with 3M but at the same time cant really deny results ive seen others get, it just doesnt work for me. Sometimes it just comes down to what your use to i guess. One of the things that i really like about Totally Buff is never having to spur the pad, ive gone through entire quart bottles on some big boats without ever hitting the pad with a spur once.

xlint89

Thank you for the reply.

scarabman

iTrader: (1)

Dave,

If high R's and pressure is what makes it work, how do you handle tight areas around emblems, and areas where you cant get the wheel? I would normally do these kind of areas/detail work by hand? Just thinking out loud.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

I've got a small 3" buffer for tight areas and most times i try to remove any and all stuff in the way. I know its a pain but can be necessary when UV damage is extensive. Its also possible to tape some things off and let the tape take the hit. In general if a surface is faded enough to require agressive wheeling i really try to remove anything i can, pays off in the long run.

scarabman

iTrader: (1)

Well, I gave it one more shot doing my best to follow your described technique, realizing you are the Master, I am the Grasshopper, but I still did not get good results. The higher speeds/pressure, while definitely cutting, were actually leaving the finish hazier than starting point by the time the product was worked to gone .I wanted it to work, but its fate has been determined. Off to the dump.

PA.WOODCHUCK

I have mild fading/chalking on front deck mostly noticeable on the black logo and stripes. That said after doing the sanding/polishing, etc. how well will the gloss hold up before needing redone? I did have a cover made to cover front.

thanks