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Print through on deck how to fix

Old 06-15-2014, 06:22 AM
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[QUOTE=glassdave;4137843]I think print through is caused by thermal cycling of the build materials and the layup schedule. Unless you can keep the boat at the same temp you blocked it at (forever ) it will eventually return. High build automotive type primers really arent a great choice for fairing surfaces as the tend to chip and crack easy. I still think you might be better off with shooting gelcoat and blocking, way easier to sand and about a fourth the cost. At least this has been my experiance with true light layup boats. Almost seems like the lack the mass to remain stable. You can get rid of it for a while but it'll creep back. Actually seems to be worst on epoxy boats.

Could you explain to me what print through is?
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:00 AM
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on tight thin laminates, and especially epoxy boats where traditionally there were no print control layers in the stack, the fibers and resin thermal cycle at slightly different rates. This tends to telegraph to the surface and leave a pattern of either the fabric and/or core used. On some older race layup Skaters and such it can be a mo fo to control. Its not a structural issue but just one of those things ya gotta live with sometimes.
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:08 PM
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Dave- we used sea dek for the non skid on that blue whaler, it's what the customer wanted. It's a beautiful boat! As far as the print through can't you just shoot Alex seal super build which is epoxy based then block it out? I would think you could burry it so it would not come back but I have never tried personally. I have an aqua sport in for a restore that has terrible print as well. The Alex seal super build is what I was planning to use. It gets hard as a rock! Gel coat is a good idea as well
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:33 PM
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Alex Seal super build or US Paint High Build or ultra high build then high build will do the trick as long as you lay down more then what the specs recommend,,,I have been doing it for decades with great success,,,Alex Seal makes great paint products...They originally worked for US Paint "Awlgrip" and improved the product tremendously...
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Ktrain
Dave- we used sea dek for the non skid on that blue whaler, it's what the customer wanted. It's a beautiful boat! As far as the print through can't you just shoot Alex seal super build which is epoxy based then block it out? I would think you could burry it so it would not come back but I have never tried personally. I have an aqua sport in for a restore that has terrible print as well. The Alex seal super build is what I was planning to use. It gets hard as a rock! Gel coat is a good idea as well
I really like the color combo on that boat. I have several Whaler customers that have those things and they are very into them (more like fanatical lol). The one i have in the shop now is getting a full Gibco non skid. Cool stuff and looks really good if ya can pull it off, last couple I've done came out nice but it requires a lot of pre prep.

On the print, guys keep in mind we are talking about a light race layup (most likely epoxy). Ordinarily on standard laid up poly or ve stuff 2K primers and Alexseal work great if you are capping off a repair or finalizing a surface especially if its a traditional wet layup. On these thin skin light boats the surface may not have any print control in the initial schedule, they tend to stay very active and will expand and contract within the various materials in the stack. You can probably bury it for a while but eventually it will return, its just the unfortunate physics of what it is. It really comes down to what its made of and how old it is, who made it and that kinda stuff. Back in the 90's race boats were race boats and very little was done in the way of final surface finish. I do like straight up gel coat for a number of reasons, cost and ease of sanding along with a very high build when compared to 2k primers but you cannot use it on an epoxy boat. I agree on the Super Build but it will not eliminate it, not if this is a true light layup and it sounds pretty bad. I always try to down sell these kind of issues, at the end of the day it is what it is and you cant change how it was made just do your best with whats available. This is a problem that many of us have wrestled with, again with light potato chip boats its a mo - fo lol.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:03 PM
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Yeah, thanks for the good words on the whaler. The owner is a perfectionist! It really is sweet. That flex mold does work well but it's a real pain the as me to work with. I use it quite often for repairs, it does come in handy. Just a lot of taping!! Well good luck with the print through, some good ideas in this thread. Let us know how it goes!
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by glassdave
on tight thin laminates, and especially epoxy boats where traditionally there were no print control layers in the stack, the fibers and resin thermal cycle at slightly different rates. This tends to telegraph to the surface and leave a pattern of either the fabric and/or core used. On some older race layup Skaters and such it can be a mo fo to control. Its not a structural issue but just one of those things ya gotta live with sometimes.
So in my terminology and or language you are saying that you can see the actual glass on the outside of the boat. Sorry Dave, I just made it out of high school, not college.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:29 PM
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Yes, you can see the imprint of the cloth.
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