cdaniel525

iTrader: (1)

Im highly considering painting my boat with a high quality paint but rolling and tipping the paint instead of spraying it. Ive read quite a bit it and see some good before and after results...
Right now my paint is in decent shape, but I dont care for the design and it oxidizes a few months after buffing it...
Its a 24x7 boat so there isnt that awful much boat to a paint and id tackle the job myself to save money.

Is this something that people would suggest / recomment or not??

Heres the method I was planning on doing:

Wet sand current paint
Wipe down with xylene or mineral spirits
4-5 thin coats of Roll/Tip paint
Wet Sand 220? grit between each coat of paint

Once paint is dry enough, wet sand in increments...
400, 800, 1500, 2000, 3000 if necc?
High speed rotatary buffer with compound
DA buffer with polish
Finish with a good wax

What do you guys think?? is this a good method, or any other suggestions/recommendations??
Thanks in advance!

ren3

"Roll and brush tip out paints are usually a urethane product, and you do not have the option of buffing them. They cure hard and part of the curing process puts a thin clear surface over the pigmented area. Three coats rolled and tipped is the norm with darker colors. I have done four hulls with Interlux Perfection Plus and have always had great results, but the prep is key as always. I would sand down your existing paint to the primer and reprime. It sounds like your existing paint is not high quality, and depending on it as a base coat/ tie coat is not a good idea. With the uretrhanes, you recoat within 24 hours and should not have to sand between coats within that period of time. If you wait beyond that you will need to sand with 320. If you are using paints other than the above, pay a qualified painter to do the work. Bob N.

dereknkathy

one thing I have read is for some reason women are much better at brush tipping than men. and also, any flaws in the finish you can blame her! I used a compressor and gun when painting my 34 hatteras. I am gonna roll-tip the spots I hafta repair after hurricane sandy turned the hatt sideways in the slip. it is amazing how much beer it takes to paint a boat!!

dereknkathy

the technique takes some learning too. (roll-tip, not drinking beer and spraying.) either practice on a junk hull or try a 2 by 2 foot section of your hull and wash it back off with lacquer thinner after it dries but before it cures. a half hour to an hour so you get a pretty good idea what finish surface will look like. practice fixing mistakes with the brush tipping so you see you hafta either don't make the mistake or leave the flaw and move on! I have seen some roll tip jobs that you can't tell it wasn't sprayed.

Craney

iTrader: (2)

It's amazing how much more beer it takes for that boat to look good!!!

1OLDSALT2B

I have been rolling and tipping paint on hulls along with varnish for 2 plus decades and personally if I was you ,I would DA prep the substrate with 150 grit,spot fill any problems with 3m premium filler,,,hire a guy to shoot Awlgrip 545 primer,6 coats cut 25 percent (or do it yourself) ,,,DA sand that with 320 grit for light colors or 400 grit for darker colors and spray Awlcraft 2000 topcoat,,,3 to 4 base coats cut 30 percent or 15 seconds on a # 2 Zahn cup ,then 2 coats mixed 50/50 with acrylic clear (reduce clear to 35 percent after catalyzing or 12 to 13 seconds with a # 2 Zahn cup ) and color or for a wetter look go 80 percent clear/20 percent color.Use a conventional gun and spray at 55 to 60 pounds at the tip,,,you will end up with less orange peel then an HVLP gun and it will be a quicker learning curve for you...The amount of time and money you will spend rolling and tipping and sanding between each coat and then wet sanding and compounding is not worth it IMHO,,,,You can spray the Awlcraft 2000 yourself,,,it is Repairable so if you do run it ,it can be wet sanded and compounded very easily

Pliant

Here's a variation... Roll and Roll drop the brush

As always prep is vital using this method can get a you flat miirror finish and any imperfection's will stare right at you

1.Interlux perfection
2.Interlux 2333n rolling fluid...mix at 15% @ 65 degree's and above
3.Closed cell foam roller's resistant to harsh two part paint's
4.One very good bath of xylene priior to any sanding and one final bath after all sanding
5 Use two foam roller's during the process keep them both wet at all time's, if you do not the paint will tack up un the roller and ruin your fresh paint
6. Begin the roll out for at least 3 minutes.....go back where you started and reroll smoothing out the stipple and any run's...by the way you only get one shot at this the paint is now tacking up....after 4-5 minutes dont touch it no matter what...
7.After 24 hours take a 400 grit sand paper and light scuff up the finish..(use wet sanding)...dont worry you will not hurt the paint it is very soft at this stage will cut easily..do not attempt to clean up imperfections yet you dont have enough build

It will take at lest 3 to 4....5 layers to build to final finish take you time and the results will be uncanny for a non pro.

JETTDOGG

iTrader: (1)

We tried it with no experience -just a book- horrible result
sprayed the rest

HEDGEHOGER

Its diffently worth it to go by a gun even a cheap autozone gun will work. Paint wise I would recommend awl grip alot of parts including a primer that you can use to practice spraying sand to
320 then spray with the right amount of converter and reducer like I said a lot of work but great results and the best part about paint it doesn't kick in the cup!!!!

blisoachle

gonna roll-tip the spots I hafta repair after hurricane sandy turned the hatt sideways in the slip. it is amazing how much beer it takes to paint a boat!!