paging glass dave
#1
paging glass dave
dug up an old thread were you posted a schedule for building an engine hatch, post #3
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...r-hatches.html
i'm making templates for ply frames - masonite skin mold. or another material for the skin, you mentioned formica
what i'm wondering is can i shoot gel after pulling the part or is it crucial i gel first ? (concerned about thinning agents or drying agents that will yellow it)
(problem i have is weather, cant leave the hatch mold in the drive way long enough so it's safe to pick up, and i don't want to spray gel in the dining room)
the other question is can i leave out 1 layer of 1708 per side of core, or am i just asking for problems go 1 1/2 ounce mat 1708 core 1708 (core is scored 1/2 inch nidacore)
i think i just answered that one
thanks dave know your busy
dan
more info, the hatch will be 6' 3 1/2" w, x 5' 5" long,
it's rounded side to side about 1 1/2" overall height,
and is going to have a full length, x 3' w, x 3-4" tall blower scoop.
like a cig blower hatch, just not as tall and not full width.
i'm gonna cut the frames then add the blower scoop with the top having the same curve as the hatch itself (using the cutouts from the frames where the blower scoop gets added, if that makes sense)
thanks dave, after this one no more projects for me
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...r-hatches.html
i'm making templates for ply frames - masonite skin mold. or another material for the skin, you mentioned formica
what i'm wondering is can i shoot gel after pulling the part or is it crucial i gel first ? (concerned about thinning agents or drying agents that will yellow it)
(problem i have is weather, cant leave the hatch mold in the drive way long enough so it's safe to pick up, and i don't want to spray gel in the dining room)
the other question is can i leave out 1 layer of 1708 per side of core, or am i just asking for problems go 1 1/2 ounce mat 1708 core 1708 (core is scored 1/2 inch nidacore)
i think i just answered that one
thanks dave know your busy
dan
more info, the hatch will be 6' 3 1/2" w, x 5' 5" long,
it's rounded side to side about 1 1/2" overall height,
and is going to have a full length, x 3' w, x 3-4" tall blower scoop.
like a cig blower hatch, just not as tall and not full width.
i'm gonna cut the frames then add the blower scoop with the top having the same curve as the hatch itself (using the cutouts from the frames where the blower scoop gets added, if that makes sense)
thanks dave, after this one no more projects for me
Last edited by outonsafari; 01-04-2017 at 12:11 PM. Reason: more info
#2
i like two layers of 1708 on both sides, seems to be a nice compromise of strength and weight. If i want a bit lighter i will use 1208. If weight is an issue the best would be two layers of 1700 and epoxy., very strong and weight conscience, for that matter you could do 1700 with VE as well. Using a ##00 fabric gets rid of the wet heavy mat layer without compromising integrity (in fact it adds to it) but you must used an advanced resin (VE or epoxy minimum).
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#3
thanks dave,
your help and advice is greatly appreciated !
i'm laying up a test piece tomorrow on masonite w/ wax paper to see how well it separates, seems to work great on small stuff and 3 layers of 1708, that underneath the hatch extension bonding i did that you coached me on but prolly forgot about.
so 1 1/2 mat 1700 1700 core 1700 1700 and ve 700, the ve 700 is what i've been using from us composites
how about shooting the gel on the 1 1/2 after she's dry and out of the mold, figuring if the part is stiff, i can shoot the gel and move inside on the saw horses.
thanks again dave
i owe ya a bottle at least
your help and advice is greatly appreciated !
i'm laying up a test piece tomorrow on masonite w/ wax paper to see how well it separates, seems to work great on small stuff and 3 layers of 1708, that underneath the hatch extension bonding i did that you coached me on but prolly forgot about.
so 1 1/2 mat 1700 1700 core 1700 1700 and ve 700, the ve 700 is what i've been using from us composites
how about shooting the gel on the 1 1/2 after she's dry and out of the mold, figuring if the part is stiff, i can shoot the gel and move inside on the saw horses.
thanks again dave
i owe ya a bottle at least