Paint / Gel over factory no-skid
08-18-2018, 09:41 PM
#1
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Paint / Gel over factory no-skid
Has anyone painted over factory no-skid on the boat floor or top of the gunnel?
Can it be saved and painted or gel coated over it or do I need to grind it down?
If it can be painted over, how do you surface prep it?
Picture is the top of the gunnel but the floor is the same also.
Can it be saved and painted or gel coated over it or do I need to grind it down?
If it can be painted over, how do you surface prep it?
Picture is the top of the gunnel but the floor is the same also.
Last edited by fountain_brian; 08-18-2018 at 10:01 PM.
08-19-2018, 01:26 AM
#2
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It for sure can be painted over. Active Thunders have the exact same type on non skid on the walk around and most are painted. Not sure how they are prepped.
08-19-2018, 06:43 AM
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Done it a few times. Like all paint work the prep has to be flawless . Spotlessly clean and dry before you start. Masking up the area perfectly is tedious but will result in a much more professional finish.
I've always used 2 part catalyst type paints . Use a foam roller . Roll on two coats of primer and tie on the first top coat just after the primer has dried . Get an old pickle or jam jar and drill a series of small holes in the lid . Load it with the non skid particles and broadcast it from a height of about two feet above the deck onto the tacky/wet topcoat. Be careful about dumping too much material . Once that's done break out the foam roller and roll over the non skid particles. You'll quickly learn the right roller technique as you go along to get a nice line free finish.
Also make sure your first topcoat is heavy enough to mask the color of the primer. If you can find it I prefer the non skid material that is pure white as opposed to some of the others that resemble repackaged sand .
The size of the roller will be determined by the area to be done but I've always been happy with a 3" roller as it handles the tapered edges and corners a little better than a larger one would.
I've always used 2 part catalyst type paints . Use a foam roller . Roll on two coats of primer and tie on the first top coat just after the primer has dried . Get an old pickle or jam jar and drill a series of small holes in the lid . Load it with the non skid particles and broadcast it from a height of about two feet above the deck onto the tacky/wet topcoat. Be careful about dumping too much material . Once that's done break out the foam roller and roll over the non skid particles. You'll quickly learn the right roller technique as you go along to get a nice line free finish.
Also make sure your first topcoat is heavy enough to mask the color of the primer. If you can find it I prefer the non skid material that is pure white as opposed to some of the others that resemble repackaged sand .
The size of the roller will be determined by the area to be done but I've always been happy with a 3" roller as it handles the tapered edges and corners a little better than a larger one would.
08-19-2018, 01:07 PM
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yes Griff - it is in the mold from the factory. Exactly like Fountain, Active Thunder, Mako, Hydra Sport, Contender (and others).
I agree it can be painted (or so everyone says) but still looking for advice oh how to surface prep it. I cant really be sanded (for obvious reasons) but will require something to get a profile for the paint to adhere.
I was thinking someone else smarter than me has already tackled this, since it is pretty common on most of the brand mane boats (and on every boat floor). Can it be chemically prepped with a wash or etching something or another....anyone ?
I agree it can be painted (or so everyone says) but still looking for advice oh how to surface prep it. I cant really be sanded (for obvious reasons) but will require something to get a profile for the paint to adhere.
I was thinking someone else smarter than me has already tackled this, since it is pretty common on most of the brand mane boats (and on every boat floor). Can it be chemically prepped with a wash or etching something or another....anyone ?
08-19-2018, 01:43 PM
#6
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[QUOTE=fountain_brian;4644607
I was thinking someone else smarter than me has already tackled this, [/QUOTE]
I don't know if I'm smarter than you but I have already done it at least 4 times . In every instance the original non skid pattern was almost worn down to smooth . You're already working on a rough / bumpy surface so the heaviest prep you need to do is get the chalking gelcoat (if it is chalked) clean , you might even brush it with a wire brush first for additional roughness and then make sure it's wax and grease free and bone dry.
Are you familiar with working with 2 part catalyst paints ? Generally they stick like sh*t to a blanket as long as the surface prep is good.
Don't be tempted to use anything coarser than 'fine' non skid compound. The non skid effect is magnified once they're applied to paint and you're risking a serious case of road rash if you fall on the medium or coarse compounds.
I was thinking someone else smarter than me has already tackled this, [/QUOTE]
I don't know if I'm smarter than you but I have already done it at least 4 times . In every instance the original non skid pattern was almost worn down to smooth . You're already working on a rough / bumpy surface so the heaviest prep you need to do is get the chalking gelcoat (if it is chalked) clean , you might even brush it with a wire brush first for additional roughness and then make sure it's wax and grease free and bone dry.
Are you familiar with working with 2 part catalyst paints ? Generally they stick like sh*t to a blanket as long as the surface prep is good.
Don't be tempted to use anything coarser than 'fine' non skid compound. The non skid effect is magnified once they're applied to paint and you're risking a serious case of road rash if you fall on the medium or coarse compounds.
10-11-2019, 08:41 PM
#9
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I have also painted multiple boats with the molded diamond non skid. I have always sanded the smooth areas first and then tackle the non skid. I get soft brass brushes and brush the non skid throughly. Once that is done I use a grease remover and clean throughly. I have also sprayed sealer type primers like 545 thinned down so It lays down flat and sprayed top coat over it. Hope this helps
12-29-2019, 10:19 PM
#10
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are you painting it over or gel coating the surface? Either way, clean it so there is no dirt or old paint chips (if it was painted over the gelcoat), if it is gel coat surface you can use the high grit sandpaper that wont remove the old gel coat surface but will create a little etching to help new gel coat stick better.
