Screwing into the transom and stringers
01-05-2019, 08:36 PM
#12
I use (and strongly recommend ) a siliconized or 'regular' polysulfide sealant . Boatlife makes a comprehensive range . And yes, I have decades of experience with the '00' materials , 4200 and 5200 , that's why I recommend their use very , very occasionally and only for very specific applications. They are without a doubt the most over and incorrectly prescribed sealants ever made , bar none .
Use those things and you're never going to get the damn screws out again later .
Use those things and you're never going to get the damn screws out again later .
i need to seal my kplane indicator cables and i'm rethinking a double check on the steering ram bolts thru the transom
4200, life caulk, boat caulk, ???? Thanks
01-06-2019, 07:01 AM
#13
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Platinum Member
I did .. Boatlife . They make a huge range including marine silicones but silicones are a development from the 60's IMO . No need to use any adhesive sealers as that's what your bolts and screws are for . I personally prefer the polysulfide based sealants , siliconized or not. All these products , are there are dozens , should all be in the same place in a decent marine chandlery where you'll find the 5200
01-06-2019, 08:48 AM
#14
Thank you, boat life life caulk flexibility looks like exactly what i need for the kplane cables
And as a precaution ill redo the steering ram bolts thru the transom with the same.
Too much work goes into these projects so better safe than rebuilding.
And as a precaution ill redo the steering ram bolts thru the transom with the same.
Too much work goes into these projects so better safe than rebuilding.
01-06-2019, 02:09 PM
#15
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Platinum Member
The good thing is that if you ever do have to go over something later later in terms of dismantling it WILL come apart and clean up easier as well.
When I use the polysulfide sealants (normally the white ones) I do not even attempt to clean up the excess squeeze out . I let it cure completely and then take an old chopstick that's been sharpened sort of like a pencil and then cut around the excess sealant with it. Especially if you're working with new/shiny paint or parts the excess comes off as clean as can be almost in a single piece. And your seal is intact , clean and impervious !
After some experimenting and getting familiar with what's out there I believe that most people would rarely , if ever , find a genuine need for 5200 again .
When I use the polysulfide sealants (normally the white ones) I do not even attempt to clean up the excess squeeze out . I let it cure completely and then take an old chopstick that's been sharpened sort of like a pencil and then cut around the excess sealant with it. Especially if you're working with new/shiny paint or parts the excess comes off as clean as can be almost in a single piece. And your seal is intact , clean and impervious !
After some experimenting and getting familiar with what's out there I believe that most people would rarely , if ever , find a genuine need for 5200 again .
03-08-2019, 09:47 AM
#18
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another thing I do is to pre-drill the part of the hole that goes through the glass otherwise when you run the screw in, it pulls the glass up a little and makes a small bump or rise right at the entrance of the hole. I might be OCD though.
Russ
Russ
03-10-2019, 11:02 PM
#19
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Always pre drill and then lightly chamfer the mouth of the hole to prevent gelcoat cracking from inside out pressure of the screw exerting expansion force on the gelcoat surface. Seal as desired but do seal it.
