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Old 08-17-2019, 01:09 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Tinkerer
I would have put one bolt in the top hole and one in the bottom. I don't think one bolt is enough.
Nice brackets.
That and you definitely need bunks under the stringers that the engines are bolted to.
Agree, definitely need 2 bolts on those but wait until your boat is back on so you can double check height/clearances and adjust the brackets before drilling extra holes through the bunks.

RR

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Old 08-17-2019, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rak rua


Agree, definitely need 2 bolts on those but wait until your boat is back on so you can double check height/clearances and adjust the brackets before drilling extra holes through the bunks.

RR

Exactly what my plan is. I didnt wanna go drilling unnecessary holes in the bunks.
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:09 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 770guy
That is a good idea and I am going to do it. I was looking at a person with the same boat and the factory trailer and it had bunks at every chine. I went ahead and raised the existing bunks 3.5". I made these stainless brackets.





Suggestion from experience:
Cut and insert a piece of wood, the same width, at the proper height to "fill that gap" between the trailer cross members and the bottom of the bunk. As it is now, you have only the integrity of the wood holding the boat up. With a wood support under, you have the entirety of the bunk holding the weight of the boat; and the bolts are just holding it in place.

Also, I would not have gone that high. Again, speaking from experience on poor ramps and/or low water levels (end of dry summer), and also even trying to get on boat from ground with ladder and the like; the lower the better. I slipped off the bow of my boat, while sitting, and fell onto gravel with bare feet. I landed square on my feet, but I would have appreciated even 2" less to the ground. My feet hurt for weeks.

I think the mistake made by the guy who took the boat out was he power loaded the boat onto the trailer, and it jammed the hull through those V-bunks at the and nailed the straight/square crossmember. If it were me, I would tighten those up, to lift the boat up on the trailer a little higher, and prevent the hull from poking through, You can also replace those two cross members with V-bent ones.

https://www.ebay.com/i/253249111957?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=253249111957&targetid=54145424589 2&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9008436&poi=&campa ignid=1881504899&mkgroupid=66933536821&rlsatarget= aud-298628318826la-541454245892&abcId=1139336&merchantid=134776715&gc lid=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtj6BylsZI9-Yp03CsPe-uoRr_361ghyrO_MBk0JkvK9uqoY_2VS7IBoCxdIQAvD_BwE

Boat-Trailer-V-Bend-Aluminum-Trailer-Cross-Member-80-inch-Long_p_630.html

Last edited by Sydwayz; 08-19-2019 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
Suggestion from experience:
Cut and insert a piece of wood, the same width, at the proper height to "fill that gap" between the trailer cross members and the bottom of the bunk. As it is now, you have only the integrity of the wood holding the boat up. With a wood support under, you have the entirety of the bunk holding the weight of the boat; and the bolts are just holding it in place.

Also, I would not have gone that high. Again, speaking from experience on poor ramps and/or low water levels (end of dry summer), and also even trying to get on boat from ground with ladder and the like; the lower the better. I slipped off the bow of my boat, while sitting, and fell onto gravel with bare feet. I landed square on my feet, but I would have appreciated even 2" less to the ground. That hurt for weeks.
Ill make a U-shaped bracket that matches the bolt holes and will saddle the beam and the bolts will pass through my U-shape and the two L-shaped. Yeah as it stands right now its 3" taller than it was previous. I can lower it 1.25" per hole. so 2.5" total if I move them to the lower bolts. I was gonna set it back on the trailer with overhead crane and just see how it looks and adjust it from there.

I am going to make my other bunks like the attached picture. I already drew up the brackets and will cut and bend them probably next week.
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:25 PM
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I edited and added some to my post above.
Here is another link:
https://www.ebay.com/i/263072935318?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=263072935318&targetid=59646605202 8&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9008436&poi=&campa ignid=1689407483&mkgroupid=74365778108&rlsatarget= aud-622524040958la-596466052028&abcId=1140476&merchantid=6399774&gcli d=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtssLgkNTFqL1BYC8aIhc25iq3P2Wh5OxNHYoqbeHJ17KIRY ngw9RLxoCtHoQAvD_BwE
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:58 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
Suggestion from experience:
Cut and insert a piece of wood, the same width, at the proper height to "fill that gap" between the trailer cross members and the bottom of the bunk. As it is now, you have only the integrity of the wood holding the boat up. With a wood support under, you have the entirety of the bunk holding the weight of the boat; and the bolts are just holding it in place.

Also, I would not have gone that high. Again, speaking from experience on poor ramps and/or low water levels (end of dry summer), and also even trying to get on boat from ground with ladder and the like; the lower the better. I slipped off the bow of my boat, while sitting, and fell onto gravel with bare feet. I landed square on my feet, but I would have appreciated even 2" less to the ground. My feet hurt for weeks.

I think the mistake made by the guy who took the boat out was he power loaded the boat onto the trailer, and it jammed the hull through those V-bunks at the and nailed the straight/square crossmember. If it were me, I would tighten those up, to lift the boat up on the trailer a little higher, and prevent the hull from poking through, You can also replace those two cross members with V-bent ones.

https://www.ebay.com/i/253249111957?...BoCxdIQAvD_BwE

Attachment 576470
Having worked on - and sworn at - more Venture trailers than I care to mention, let me note several common "issues" with them. First, they're pretty much entirely "bolt together / fully adjustable" trailers. While that may sound appealing, it's not. Anything bolted together can come loose. Anything adjustable can come out of adjustment. Get my drift?

Second, Venture bunks are made out of about the cheapest / quickest rotting / fastest warping wood on the planet. As you noted, the single bolts holding each bunk in vertical position are totally inadequate - and that would be if the bunks were made out of real wood.

Third, Venture's Engineering department - if one can call them that - is terrible at designing a trailer for any specific hull. Sure, with enough messing around / adjusting at a dealer, one can usually make one pretty much fit a specific hull. But things like cross members that allow the hull to contact them during loading are waaay to common. Throw in something like a hull with variable deadrise and they absolutely have no clue - and usually end up delivering a recipe for disaster.

Fourth, Venture trailers have more built in flex and less factor of safety than any other trailer I've ever worked on. That's a bad combination and means your trailer will have all of the strength of cooked pasta and will barely hold what it's (supposedly) rated for. A cross member that (on flat ground) looks like it won't be a problem will be when the trailer flexes. I honestly don't know what Aluminum alloy they use, but it must contain a significant percentage of Jello. Oh, and I do have a degree in Mechanical Engineering.

Finally, if you ever work on a Venture trailer, make sure your Tetanus shot is up to date. Deburring is not a manufacturing process understood or used by Venture. By the time one gets a Venture trailer to fit a boat, you're usually in need of a pint of blood.

There, I feel better now. Good luck with this one.

Last edited by Too Stroked; 08-19-2019 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 08-19-2019, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Stroked
Having worked on - and sworn at - more Venture trailers than I care to mention, let me note several common "issues" with them. First, they're pretty much entirely "bolt together / fully adjustable" trailers. While that may sound appealing, it's not. Anything bolted together can come loose. Anything adjustable can come out of adjustment. Get my drift?

Second, Venture bunks are made out of about the cheapest / quickest rotting / fastest warping wood on the planet. As you noted, the single bolts holding each bunk in vertical position are totally inadequate - and that would be if the bunks were made out of real wood.

Third, Venture's Engineering department - if one can call them that - is terrible at designing a trailer for any specific hull. Sure, with enough messing around / adjusting at a dealer, one can usually make one pretty much fit a specific hull. But things like cross members that allow the hull to contact them during loading are waaay to common. Throw in something like a hull with variable deadrise and they absolutely have no clue - and usually end up delivering a recipe for disaster.

Fourth, Venture trailers have more built in flex and less factor of safety than any other trailer I've ever worked on. That's a bad combination and means your trailer will have all of the strength of cooked pasta and will barely hold what it's (supposedly) rated for. A cross member that (on flat ground) looks like it won't be a problem will be when the trailer flexes. I honestly don't know what Aluminum alloy they use, but it must contain a significant percentage of Jello. I've only bent two trailers in my 30+ years in the marine business. They were both brand new Ventures.

Finally, if you ever work on a Venture trailer, make sure your Tetanus shot is up to date. Deburring is not a manufacturing process understood or used by Venture. By the time one gets a Venture trailer to fit a boat, you're usually in need of a pint of blood.

There, I feel better now. Good luck with this one.
You are not exagerating. I cleaned up burs on the ends of the Aluminum I beams. I think they cut them with a shotgun maybe? I shot it with my XRF analyzer and it came back as 5052 grade which is to be expected. It has less cross members than it probably needs.
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:03 AM
  #38  
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ANYTHING is better than a Rocket Trailer. Rocket was known for cutting/ending the frame just aft of the axles, and only having wood bunks extending 4' back to hold the heaviest portion of the boat.
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