StingerFan

It won’t be too long until I’m at the point of replacing the Knees, Stringers and Bulkheads in my Stinger.
The attached photo shows another Stinger, that unfortunately went to scrap. It’s the exact same model as mine, so I’d expect to see a similar construction under my floor.
The new knees, stringers and bulkheads will be made from 3/4 Coosa Bluewater 26. Knees will be doubled up to 1-1/2”
I already know my boat has a cracked bulkhead. Should I double up on the bulkhead thickness? Should I add additional bulkhead bracing where I’m showing in green? Or more? Should I extend the knee “stringer” where I’m showing in blue?
Or any other ideas?
Thanks!

jeff32

open heart surgery !

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

i would move those outer stringers and knees inline with the existing stringers that are outboard of the fuel tank stringers and increase the knee size so trim pumps, bilge blowers etc can be mounted on them. any drain holes i would cut with the 2 1/8 hole saw [gauge size] while your in there think finished product and what would be user friendly as far as bumper, anchor, anchor line, dock line, cooler, life jacket storage, service etc etc then cut to size rather than adding to stringer and or knee height/length then glass it in.

everything between the rear bench/rear of gas tank and the transom is a blank canvas, rebuild it to fit your needs.

boomer

I am confused did you remove the complete liner from the boat?

StingerFan

No, the boat was going to scrap, so I kept some fiberglass for another project.
The boat I’m restoring is the exact same make and model of the one in the picture, so I’m assuming its structure will be the same.
When that boat was “de-constructed” I took several pictures of the structure, just in case they might come in handy someday.
Even though I removed those sides, I can’t un-see what happened to it under a D9 bulldozer…
She was someone’s pride-and-joy at one time. I found the original log book buried in the cabinet. At first, the original owners took meticulous records of every trip. Then eventually lots of engine troubles. And the records stopped.
Her interior survives, and will be going into my restoration project boat.

StingerFan

Hey Safari, I’m getting closer to putting the knees in. I really like your idea of tying the side knees to the stringer like you show, unfortunately the relocated port/starboard knees would interfere with the engine bracket bolts on my boat. I’m thinking of using your idea though, and triangulating a brace from the knee to the bulkhead like here in yellow.

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=StingerFan;4880167]Hey Safari, I’m getting closer to putting the knees in. I really like your idea of tying the side knees to the stringer like you show, unfortunately the relocated port/starboard knees would interfere with the engine bracket bolts on my boat. I’m thinking of using your idea though, and triangulating a brace from the knee to the bulkhead like here in yellow.
quoted you but deleted the pic.


i would notch out the knees to fit around the bracket/platform nuts&bolts, anything to align and transmit the load thru/along those outboard stringers which most likely run almost as far forward as the gas tank/cabin couch/floor stringers do.

i'm not an engineer but to me it looks like the factory placed stringers that end at the fuel tank bulkhead would hammer any load into that bulkhead and immediate area and stop rather than transmit/spread and or dissipate it up/along/across the full length or larger area

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

And i would scroll cut them round. A square cut board has only the strenght of it's smallest part, i.e a 2x8 with 6 inches notched out is only as strong as a 2 inch board, scroll cut that same 6 inches out and it will have the same strenght as the uncut board.