Formula 311 Rub Rail replacement?
 

Any post about replacing this with stainless, is it easy or challenging?

Thanks

That would be a very time-intensive project. I replaced a majority of the deck-hull bonding screws with thru bolts when I had my 311. Some of them were extremely difficult to reach from the backside. Part of the cabin headliner and upolstery needs to be dropped to reach the back.

You could just rescrew a new one, but I suspect some of the screws are either broken or will break off when you try to remove them. The bond is much srtonger after thru-bolting.

From what I've read on here and what I've seen myself, it's definitely not "easy". It's labor intensive and requires the interior to be torn apart and fixed.
that being said, I'm also curious to hear more detail about the most difficult sections
I'm also curious about the rivets instead of screws/bolts on the silent thunder platform.

I have done this a couple of times on formula and in a couple different ways.

1989 242- replaced rub rail with taco rub rail beacause orginal was beat up. Took three guys to do it (one holding a heat gun, one pulling the rub rail, and the last guy to install it on the boat) and it was an all day event. Turned out OK but seeing that it came in rolls the finsh of the rub rail was a little wavey. The rivets are no bug deal just drill them out and replace with screws.

1989 272- Painted the rub rail. Rub rail was in good shap just wanted white. So I had my painter friend do it. We scuffed the run rail with 600 then sprayed an adhesion permoter on the platic. Then painted it with base and clear. Turned out well but after time showed some wear and needed to be repainted.

1991 311- Painted the rub rail and added stainless insert. Rub rail was in good shap just wanted white. We scuffed the rub rail with 600 then sprayed an adhesion permoter on the platic. Then painted it with base and clear. Over that we installed a 3/4" wide stainless strip with # 8 screws. Looked great and after two years still looked like new. If I was to do it again I would do it this way!

Hope this helps
Don

Don,

Thanks for the help the last way sounds best I just did not know you could paint them. Was the stainless insert expensive? Also were you the person that posted about the gauge changes? I thought I read that i would need to change the fuel sending unit?

No not bad at all. This is the product I used:

http://www.rubrails.com/stainless_steel.html

SSH-75 Hollow Back Half Oval
12 or 16 Ft.
3/4" Width #8 Hole Size

If you do try this make sure to get the hollow back inserts. The solid back is almost impossible to bend around the corners of the boat. This stuff was easy. Then all you need to do is go to the hardware store and buy some #8 tapered screws.

Don

MOERON,

When I replaced all my gauges with Gaffrig, it was recommended to change senders as well. Change fuel gauge and couple weeks later finally changed sender, had problems with accurate reading unitl I changed it.

treads,

Is the fuel sending unit had to get to?

MOERON,

By default, I installed new senders for temp, oil pressure and the fuel tank. The cost of the senders was minor in the scheme of things, compared to the gauges and bezels. Well worth the piece of mind.

Treads,

I had some errors in my last reply! I have heard that the fuel sending unit is hard to get to for replacement, is that true?

On my 292, the access is under the rear seat, and an access cover in the floor is right over the sending unit. I believe on the other models (272 and 242) the access is limited, but I don't think you should have a problem on your 311.

You can't get it out from the engine compartment. I took off my rear seat cushions and used a 3 inch hole saw to cut a hole through the seat bottom right above the sending unit.

It came out perfect; looks like a factory access hole. With the seat cushions back on you can't even see the hole.

When I changed my gauges to Gaffrig on my 311 I was able to pull the old fuel sender out part way then cut it in two and remove it. The new Gaffrig sender did not have the old style float arm and went in with no problem. You do have to run a separate ignition powered wire to the new sender in addition to the original sender and ground wires.
I would appreciate any input from someone who has changed their rub rail to white or white/stainless as to what brand they used. I'd like to change mine but it has to look right and cover where the original was.

Don,

I purchased the stainless online but they emailed me and told me it woukd need to be cut down (6' to 8' sections) and the delivery charge changed alot +$45 did they cut this into smaller sections for you and if so did it still work well?

Thanks

I believe that's what's holding the two halves together. Since there is no internal access the rivets were an easy solution.
Also the upper section bears all the weight while the bottom just carries water and exhaust. No need for high strength like a hull to deck joint.

I see the rub-rail hardware is #8 . . . what length? The Fountain dealer at LOTO sells rubrail in 20ft sections and I am going to do mine this spring. So, I gotta buy a couple of pounds of SS . . . but don't know what length to get. Thanks.

Well I bought mine and had it shipped to a marina that I am good friends with and they brought it in on a truck so it was not cut down. It should work for you thought just make sure that the ends are cut square and clean so they match up.

Depends on what you are trying to do. Are you replacing the rubrail or just installing the S.S. cap?

Don,

I got the Stainless you told me to get (hollow back 3/4") what length screws did you use and how did you bend it around the corners (any heat applied) this is thicker than I was expecting.

Thanks

I used screws that were about 1.5 inches long. Pre drill the rubrail all the way though so the stainless actually mounts to the boat instead of the rubrail. No heat needed it wont do any good. Just use slow and steady pressure to wrap around the corners.

Don,

Do you happen to know the paint code for the color white you used on the rail?

Thanks

I have the codes for my old boat, but that was custom painted with a bright white. this color was brighter than what you have. If you are trying to match the original color I would recomend going to an automotive paint supply store and have them use the scaner on the side of your boat. This way you have an exact match.

Don

any pics of just the SS insert over a black rub rail?

do you guys think that would look good on mine being light grey?

if it is in 6 or 8ft sections where do you start the first piece?

thanks

I ended up putting the stailless over the factory black rubrail and I think it looks great. I will get pics up after this weekend.

thanks

did you get to your boat last weekend?

thanks

Moeron,

Do you have any picture of the new rub rail mounted on the boat? Im thinking of replacing my stock rub rail (black).

I am going down to the boat on Friday i will take some pictures of Stainless over the OEM black rub rail. I think it looks great. You start the first piece on the front bend.

:p ;)

Attachment 291846

Attachment 291847

Attachment 291848

Here you go.

Thanks!!! Looks great!