Cutting up ST, resin the exposed edges?
 

From all the Silent Thunder mod threads I've read, I don't recall anyone mentioning whether they slapped a little resin on the newly exposed edges? I'm about to cut 3" or 4" holes just underneath each outlet and might install floor drain covers typically found in CC floors (might Krylon the drain covers too; black maybe?). I think it'll make for a cleaner look, and these ST "drains" will hopefully let the exhaust-laiden water out before staining my outlets.
I've already cut the baffles out...

how's it sound with the baffles out ? We cut mine out but haven't run it yet ....m

Hey Mike! I think it sounds perfect. More rumble/throaty, but not so obnoxious to piss off the neighbors. I've only been in the driver's seat while on plane, and I can't say that it makes more sound if you have your head in the wind. Maybe just a tad bit more if you duck down.
Also, this is with stock exhaust. I've got a set of RevMarine pieces still to install. I think with anything aftermarket, we'll get a little more rumble.
Any thoughts on sealing the cut pieces?

when i cut mine out last year it was louder and did sound good. The problem i had is the resonance that it made inside the boat. i am hoping i have it solved this time around:D

Hey Handfulz28,Years ago we would cut 4 inch deck drains in the bottom of the old style silent thunder boxes. In 1989 we sold 4 357`s w/575`s and speedmaster drives. Would you believe they came w/silent thunder!
We cut the drains in the so they would NOT be shot off the boat at speed!
These will help you with your problem, I think.

If You use a hole saw and tape it good it will be a pretty nice edge ... 4" seems big to me ... my drain holes are enlarged but not much ..... I have thought about adding a row along with the existing ones ....but want to run it first as is ...

what about adding exhaust trim rings ? Might look kewl to have tips too ...the angled cut with the long side toward the Transom ...short .. 1.5"

I used chromed bronze haws pipes from West with home made aluminum backing plates with my 311 with blower motors. It worked great. Joe Murray

Alright, so going with the holes is a done deal. I might shop the stores for deck drains to see what diameter they are and cut accordingly.
But still no yea/nea on whether to coat the newly exposed wood. Maybe a hefty coat of 5200 when I put the drains in?

I would go with the deck plate idea, then you can close them when you want. As for sealing anything, where you're going to cut the holes in the bottom of the ST box, there is no wood there, just fairly thick fiberglass. So, there is no real need to seal anything. Install the deck plates and seal them, you'll be all set.

OOOOH...cool. So where's the wood, just where it mounts to the transom? All the stories about it rotting out had me anxious. I think I'm good with drains if I can find them cheap enough. I'm not looking to make big honkin' holes, just enough to get the water out before it gets to the exhaust tips. I'm using a hole saw so if all goes well with the cuts, but I want it sealed up at some point in the future, I'll keep my "hockey pucks" and patch 'em back in...

I'll share pics as I go...

I just drilled mulitple holes on the bottom with a big drill bit, your not going to want to plug them back up so don't waste your money on drains.

just my 1.5 cents

The only silent thunder boxes I have seen that are "rottening out" were because of excessive heat and this started de-lamenting of the fiberglass.

Due to lack of enough water cooling!

I assume your talking about failure from the cooling water from the motor? I have thought about if you eliminate most the water in the box with the holes if you could have hi temp problems in the box ....

Where did to drill the extra holes? We thought about drilling some near the back so when on plane the water drains out? What do you guys think? Anything back in that area to avoid?

I put extra holes in mine to drain the water and new tips to clean up the platformwww.youtube.com/masi242

Here are 3-1/4" holes in the underside of the ST. The sounds is great, most water runs out the bottom as opposed to the tips. Took 10 minutes na dit was done. Where the holes are cut is FRP only, no wood.

Thanks Treads! Did you use a right-angle dill to get under there? I can't get in there where the k-planes are. I want to drill my holes further aft; theory being at speed/on plane the water will pool more there.
Have you removed your baffles? I already did...made a big difference in sound...

Right angle drill on the outside above the planes. Didn't cut the baffles out. Figured I could always put covers back in the underside if need be. Cut a single set of holes initially, and had some resonance, then added the second set and it seemd to reduce it quite a bit. Still sounds much better than stock. The EMI Thunder exhaust helps too. :D

When you start to cut the holes run the drill in reverse. Once you get through the gell then you can go forward. Don't spin the bit fast or you will burn up the teeth of the bit fast.

Jon