Drive switch problems
 

I have a 1984 F-302 SR1 w/ twin 502/465...

I have removed the wiring from all the switches in the dash and marked them. But somehow the markings got covered with overspray. I seem to have all the guages and switches working except the drive switches.

The drives had 2 set of switches. One was in a round casing with the old style toggle switches.....Trailer on top and Port and Starboard below...with a set of newer rocker toggles below also marked Port/ Starboard and both...

Seems we can get both drives to go up together, both come down together, each drive goes up with their switch.

BUT...I can't get each drive to come down with their respective rocker switches...

Any thoughts??????????

Builder Bob- does your set up have a black box tucked in somewhere. The reason I ask is the older merc set ups used to use that box with the one trailer button two rocker switch set up. That box may be where your problem is. There are diodes in there that keep current from crossing side to side. Never had much luck with it. Don't know if it is serviceable. Some guys just lived with it others removed it and gave up the trailer both button.
Livorsi sells the diodes for their systems. I don,t know if they work with what you have. I think its just trim without trailer.
Sorry so wordy but there are a number of ways to go about it.
Jim
p/s you can clean the overspray with acetone wires should take it

Yes, it has the black box in the gunnel on the drivers side. It has 2 relays in it and an assload of wires. Apparently all for the drives. How can I eliminate this box? Any suggestions before I screw something up?

Well -That has always been my opinion too. The wires that lead to the pumps should be long enough to reach your switches. The simplest way is to wire direct to rocker switches and disregard the limit switch. grass is green sky is blue for pump colors. the limits may have already been by passed if not you do that at the pumps.
Jim

Thanks! Here we go! I'm gonna try this. The factory guru said that the drives were wired like that due to the limiting of the drives so they could not reach above the trailering setting. So you think that I can run existing wires from the switches to the drives eh? We'll give it a try. :signs069:

the limits may have already been by passed if not you do that at the pumps.
Jim
__________________
Been Racing, Still Wrenching



How's that done?:readinghelp:

I'm a hammer not a wrench!!:angry-smiley-044: :angry-smiley-044:

The limits switches are located on the pivots where the drive trims, the wires run to the trim pump and connect with bullet connectors. if you unplug the blue /white and the purple/red wires from the black wires at the pump. Jump together, sometimes you will find a purple jumper tie wrapped there for that reason. You will be connecting two female ends together. Butt connect if jumper is not found.
Jim

Thanks again for the info!

I'll try that!:signs069:

Thanks Jim.....You are the man!!!

I wired the drives last night and everything works great!


But, it seems that the drives go down slower individually than when both are going down. Normal?

Thanx, I'm glad it went well for you.
The speed they move has nothing to do with the switches. More the strength of the motors, oil weight, resistance from corrosion on cylinders,and/or available voltage.Moving together at equal speed I think is the important thing.
Jim