New Headliner material leftovers - $2/sq. ft.
 

I realize that this is almost a classified ad, but since this subject is very specific to Formula owners, I posted it here.

I just finished replacing the headliner in my 382, and I have some material left over. I bought it directly from Formula; it is the current generation material, and almost an exact match for the grey Ultraleather that was used in the past.

The official specs are:

#62305 LY Vinyl, Longitude Grey, untrimmed with 1/4" foam 200104, 57" wide; $46.77/linear yard; $3.28 sq. ft.

I measured the actual usable width at 58".

I'm happy to let it go at $2 per square foot plus shipping from eastern PA. The original Ultraleather is $9 per square foot...

I have the following four pieces left over:
Uncut material still on roll: 19'2" = 91 sq.ft. = $182
Rectangular piece #1: 11'2" x 25.5" = 23 sq.ft. = $46
Rectangular piece #2: 8'6" x 26" = 18.4 sq ft = $36
Rectangular piece #3: 9'1" x 22" = 16.6 sq.ft. = $33
(Piece #3 includes an extra section roughly 18" square on one end - no charge.)

Let me know!

Nobody has any headliner issues? Geez, this was an "end-of-the-world" subject not long ago...

yeah im having headliner issues with my 382!

Since you just did yours, of whats left how much do you think can be used to do another 382. I know its a shot in the dark since i havent even LOOKED at what its going to take. But if it gets me a deal and gets it off your hands what the hell right.

Let me know.

SlowPlay: I'm sure that you could get 2 out of 3 panels covered with the 19'2" leftover. Since the roll was 57" wide to start, it looks as if the pieces we used were more like 30"-32" wide, so the smaller remnants might not be wide enough for 382 panels. I did cut some excess width off of my panels while I had them out. They went over the lighting valances and bulkheads way more than they needed to.

How convinient to have a Cabernet Sauvignon colored carpet at home. :D :drink::drink:

My headliner is still fine, but has some marks in one or two areas where the cabinets meet it from hull flex due to the deck/hull joint defect.

TTT. If no one here needs it, it'll go to ebay...

Just finished re-installing the panels. It all came out looking great, but there are definitely some tricks-of-the-trade when it comes to removing and re-installing these panels. If anyone has to do this job, PM me, and I'll offer up some pointers.

I know you took before, during and after pics....post em! :drink:

You know me better than I do, Nort! I didn't get any "before" shots, since many of us already know what that looks like. Here are some "during" shots.

The center panel is held up by three sets of two screws hidden behind the centerline lights. The bezels twist off, three small screws hold each light on, and you'll have to cut the wires, since they're hard-spliced. Don't worry about polarity, the incandescent bulbs don't care. The hatch trim rings need to come off to get the outer panels off. There are eight 10-32 bolts in each ring. PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH BOLTS CAME OUT OF WHICH POSITION - THEY ARE NOT ALL THE SAME LENGTH! (Guess how I found out...)

The trick is to relieve the force that the foredeck applies to the top of the cabin bulkheads along the companionway and over the head and refrigerator bulkheads. We started by removing the trim around the doorway and applying pressure upwards with floorjacks and some 4x4's on top of the step and both countertops. (Be sure to position the jacks away from the center of the counter, and on top of some wood to spread the load.) Don't worry about damaging the uphostery on the outer panels; you'll be scrapping those anyway.

Pull down (and back if you can) on the center panel until it disengages from the v-berth bulkhead. Then work the panel forward until it comes free from the rear bulkheads. A word of caution: The center panel is so long that it has a splice about 2' from the back. There is a 1/4" backing panel on this splice that makes things go a bit tight as it comes out. Try not to damage the splice. If you do, the rear part will try to ride above the side panels instead of under them. (This is where we went wrong, and created all sorts of problems, including having to repair the splice.)

Once the center panel is out, you will find five or six aluminum tabs along the inboard edge of the outer panels. These screw into the firring strips that you see in the photos. Once the screws are out, we moved two jacks inboard to where the center panel had been, and then worked the outer panels out. They are MUCH longer than they need to be in the rear. They extend way past where you can see them.

In every case, you will encounter sheets of lightweight foam rubber between the deck and the panels. These are probably in place to keep the panels pushed firmly down onto the bulkheads. These sheets will try to roll up as you remove the panel and make life really difficult. Wherever you need to, reach in and pull these sheets out. I didn't bother putting them back in, and everything looks OK to me.

This is now a great time to do any wiring projects in the cabin. I ran a wire from the 12V electrical panle over to the light switches for a dimmer control, a video cable up to the chartplotter from the TV/DVD, and a set of audio cables over to the stereo head unit for an iPod input.

Once we had all three panels out, we trimmed all of them based on the marks left on the upholstery. We trimmed between 1" and 2" off of each side at the back of the center panel, about 1" off of the outboard edge of the outer panels, and a really big curved section off the rear edge of the outer panels, so that they ended about 2" behind the edge of the curved valences that are over the counters. All this made it way WAY easier to re-assemble. It took us four hours to take it all apart, and about 2 to put it back in, including the wiring.

As you slide the panels back in, use sheets if thin, hard plastic (we used flexible kitchen cutting sheets) above and below the panels wherever they are a tight fit. This keeps the foam rubber from rolling up above the panel, and helps the headliner material slide over the bulkheads without tearing. You'll need to use the wood and jacks in a few places as well. Enjoy!

Still have the material...