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-   -   271 sr-1 on a loadrite with rollers (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/formula/255766-271-sr-1-loadrite-rollers.html)

02603sec 06-13-2011 05:20 PM

271 sr-1 on a loadrite with rollers
 
I have the boat in the driveway and have a little time to fix a few things. I don't think the trailer had been used much by the previous owner, so I've been going through it. My skeg has 15" of ground clearance while the front mid hull has 27" ground clearance. With all this ground clearance, I really have to fight on the launch ramp. How much ground clearance is appropriate? My boat looks like it is excited to see me. Anyone have a suggestion on how to make the adjustments on the trailer?

you may have to copy/paste in your browser

https://picasaweb.google.com/02603se...eat=directlink

srdrago 06-13-2011 05:48 PM

Bunks are always better for the boat than rollers. But rollers are easier to get the boat on and off the trailer at crappy ramps. I would say if you can, switch it to bunks, shouldn't be hard, that could raise your boat up if done right. Also looks like your boat is a little to heavy on that trailer. The clarence on the tires and wheel well is small. If you don't want to switch axels I guess go slow and maybe try bunks to raise the boat higher up on the trailer.

Another thing to think about is how long is the travel? If you are just putting it in and taking it out 2 or 3 times a year and the ramp is 5 minutes away, I wouldn't change it. If its your every day trailer and going all over all the time, man up and fix it.

tico 06-13-2011 06:00 PM

I had a similar problem with mine and I removed the rollers and replaced them with bunks. Before, my boat was about 6 inches over the fenders. now, it sits just above them. I also have a load rite trailer. This is how it sits now...
http://i568.photobucket.com/albums/s...a/IMG_9277.jpg

02603sec 06-13-2011 06:59 PM

thanks for the replies. My experience for the most part has been with an in and out service, up to a couple of years ago. (could be why the boat is rigged so high on the trailer) I’ve trailered the boat about 15 times in the last 2 years, some of these trips are 10 miles, others are 200 miles. The NJ coast, has heavy tidal flow, tides coming in and out, sometimes as much as 6-8 feet, there is always current and last but not least, the short launch ramps where the tires fall off the cliff. There is a wide variety from the good, bad and ugly. Most of the water is dark, so you can’t see the fenders when submerged. What I meant to say in my post, is the boat is too high, which requires 38 to 42" of water to make it float, by that time, my truck is up to its rear axle. I need to drop it down on the trailer. I'm not sure about the clearance between the wheel and fender, but I'm concerned about how much is the standard clearance for the skeg. Loadrite rep said to order a pivot bar for the front rollers that matches the back, and it will bring it down, about (5 inches) at the front pivot bar. My winch bar is adjustable, so now I'm thinking of upgrading the winch pad, eliminating the front rollers and pushing the boat forward about 4 inches, which would transfer the front weight to the winch pad, (hopefully improving the ride in the truck) without the front rollers and perched on the rear rollers. Bunks? How are they in current (tidal flow) to get the boat on straight?

88242LS 06-13-2011 07:33 PM

In my world I'd simply sell it and go get the right trailer, does that boat have a 500hp?

02603sec 06-13-2011 08:47 PM

502 efi 415hp black motor. So I should just buy a new one.

88242LS 06-13-2011 09:19 PM


Originally Posted by 02603sec (Post 3428471)
502 efi 415hp black motor. So I should just buy a new one.

k, one of these was on a similiar trailer with a blue motor a while back almost bought it, as far as trailer goes I would consider looking into it, might not be a whole lotta money to get into a new alum bunk trailer, I'd check the prices then maybe list your trailer and see what happens, someones always looking for a trl like that for there cruiser

srdrago 06-14-2011 05:09 PM

How much do you want the trailer? I have a 242LS with a small block and that trailer should be good for it.

02603sec 06-15-2011 07:08 AM

SRDrago, I haven't given up on the loadrite yet. The trailer is rated for 7400, w gvw of 9400. My boat is 5400 dry.
Thanks again for the help on the board. I’m afraid I’m still in the “I don’t know what I don’t know” phase of learning about my set up, even though I’ve had it for years. I’ve concluded after watching Youtube videos of launches and retrievals of boats on roller trailers, I don’t need to float my boat off the trailer. The videos show how to use the boat’s power to get it on and off under the boat’s power making use of the trailer rollers. This I haven’t done and will attempt next time at the ramp. My GF is intimidated by the launching process has only gone as far as giving me an extra eye while backing up the rig. Some questions remain, while retrieving the boat, powering up to the winch post; what would keep it from sliding back, while I turn it off, jump out, and attach the winch? I saw some a video in New Zealand where one guy was powering up on the trailer, while the winch man was between the bow and the winch post fastening the cable, omg! I saw another one where the guy left the boat in forward, jumped out, ran around and attached his winch cable. Some people are more adventurous then I am.
In the meantime, I am going to lower the boat in the trailer by spreading, or widening the pivots as they are attached to the trailer cross members, which will take the rollers out of the 1st and 2nd step in the hull, and adjust them to the 2nd and 3rd hull steps. I am currently researching the stringer locations. Given the adjustment, the bow should drop about 5 inches in the trailer. I am going to move my winch post forward about 4 inches, which should place my rear rollers about 2 inches from the transom, and replace the awful twin rubber V bow stop with a single bow roller and have the eye located underneath, for much easier, safer access. I may add a keel roller to the forward trailer cross member. Last note, with the winch post positioned forward, moving the center of gravity forward, should make the rig handle better. Please advise;

I.D.C.E. 06-15-2011 07:45 AM

It just takes some practice and zoning that trailer in to work for you. Have you tried different ramps? Hey since your from Jersey drag that boat up to the Rendezvous July 16th, I will give you a hand launching it and try to help you with what I know. I trailer my 26pc all the time and drop it in on various ramps and I launch my pops 312 all the time, I can share some pointers to help ease the process.

02603sec 06-15-2011 08:19 AM

I'm renting a place in beach haven in July. It has a slip. Maybe this will work this year. last year, it was the week after the rendezvous. I have had some pretty crappy ramps, and some good ones. The public one on LBI near the causeway is ok, a little shallow, and a lot of seaweed. Bordentown has a short ramp. I used one in millville and my truck was spinning all four wheels. Neshaminy State Park is the nicest closest one. Thanks for the support!

88242LS 06-15-2011 07:48 PM

I can power on my bunk no problem, but a waist to me, I just float it up 3 easy cranks and its on

previous

http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/HPIM2983.jpg
http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/HPIM3268.jpg

after

http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/HPIM3752.jpg
http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/HPIM4167.jpg

JB33 06-16-2011 06:19 AM

I used to own a marina and have see thousands of launches and retrievals. the float on is fine if you know your trailer/boat setup well and there is no wind or current, but it leaves that roller sticking up and nothing to stop you from plowing it HARD and gouging up the boat. also many times I see folks float on pull the trailer out and the boat is not centered on the trailer and leaning one way or the other.

What has always worked best for me is: Put trailer in until you can just see the wheel wells barley peeking out of the water, drive on, slowly, aim at the roller, once your kinda on the trailer throttle up SLOWLY until your creepin up the trailer, once your really close to the roller (have GF/wife tell you) leave the throttle where it is just walk up and hook the eye up, winch snug and go shut it down.
Dont use sudden throttle movements! I cant count the times I have seen someone get to the roller expecting wifey to hook it up and just pop it in neutral and the boat just rolls back in the drink. Or better yet, gets it on the trailer leaves it in forward never even hooking it up and their buddy in the truck takes off they shut it down and the boat SAILS off the ass of the trailer and on to the ramp!

I should have had a camera mounted to record all the follies. My fav was the guy with a bull horn in the boat to blare his backing instructions to the wife.

02603sec 06-27-2011 10:23 AM

Yeah, this trailer is head scratching. I figure the trailer was set up for something else, and at some point a dealer threw this in without tuning it. My problems are: Up and Down movement while towing, launching it, and then retrieving it. Just about everything. I called around, and even though I live 15 minutes from the Load Rite factory, it doesn't seem like the knowledgebase is there for the proper specs. I also called every marina within 50 miles, and waned my confidence in having it done right. My first inclination is to move the boat forward and drop the cradle in the front.

here is a direct link to the image.. with questions.
Any help would be much appreciated

https://picasaweb.google.com/02603se...18021874016226

sprink58 06-27-2011 12:02 PM

Get some guide poles installed at both sides near the stern and simplify your life. Guide poles are a way of life here in Florida...with the tide in and out and different angle on the ramps we have to have them...otherwise the trailer disappears. I even have my lights on mine.

I have mine long enough so that when the boat is on the trailer the top of the poles are 20" above the rub rail.

I come back in after a day out...ease up to the dock by the ramp and tie up. I go get the truck...back down the ramp into the water...set the brake. I then pull the boat between the poles, hook the winch strap to the bow eye...pull the winch up tight and pull up the ramp. Always centered on the trailer and ready to ride.

You can do it yourself for about $100...this launching deal can make or break your day. You are too intelligent to get wigged out over this...there is a better way.

http://www.rockettrailers.com/PartsB...GuidePoles.htm

http://www.rockettrailers.com/PartsB...GuidePoles.htm

I hope this helps you...good luck.

Beautiful rig BTW.

When I first got mine I tried it one time w/o guide poles...I said "Frig This" then got the poles...life is good.:evilb:

02603sec 06-27-2011 12:59 PM

Yep I have guides, and the boat lines up very nicely on the rollers. The balance while towing is questionable, and the launches and retrievals could be easier, since I am mostly a one man show.

jmrapp 06-27-2011 03:24 PM

I think the bouncing when driving could be helped by moving the boat front on the trailer. Also, I started using a ratchet tie down at the front from the eye hook to the trailer to stop some bouncing that I had.

sprink58 06-27-2011 03:25 PM


Originally Posted by 02603sec (Post 3439476)
Yep I have guides, and the boat lines up very nicely on the rollers. The balance while towing is questionable, and the launches and retrievals could be easier, since I am mostly a one man show.

Yeah...it was set up for something else as you say. You probably have very little tongue weight or none at all...I'm going through that deal myself. You probably know about the 10% of the gross should be on the tongue. I think you can get away with less with multiple axles...depends on how ass heavy it is...and we know Formulas are ASS heavy. You have some gymnastics to go through doing this...you just about need to hit a ramp during the week when no one is around sweating you for the ramp and move the boat around on the trailer...good luck with this.

02603sec 06-27-2011 03:30 PM

the boat is snug in the cradle, but the rear of F250 diesel gets a lot of up and down, which makes the tow ride uncomfortable. That's my concern. The trailer tandem axles are not far enough aft?

sprink58 06-27-2011 03:52 PM


Originally Posted by 02603sec (Post 3439606)
the boat is snug in the cradle, but the rear of F250 diesel gets a lot of up and down, which makes the tow ride uncomfortable. That's my concern. The trailer tandem axles are not far enough aft?

.
OK...not fair...you've been holding out on us...you DID take geometry.:evilb:

jmrapp 06-27-2011 09:16 PM

I looked over your pictures again and I think you could even slide the tongue front if you wanted to. Seems like there is some extra near the boat. When I bought the roller trailer I had for my Sea Ray they set it up that the rear most roller was about 1 inch from the edge of the transom. That I think would really help with the tongue weight and then take the bounce out of the ride.

02603sec 06-28-2011 01:06 PM

heck yeah. Just back from a test run. I have a good run that has dips, hills, curves open highway and stop lights. I jacked the trailer and moved the axles back 8.5 inches and lost at least 80% of the bounce. The handling and ride much more confident. I am betting I am still less then 10% tongue weight on a 7400 lb dry rig.


jack up the trailer w the boat on it, loosened up the axles, and moved it back 8.5 inches.

02603sec 07-02-2011 04:07 AM

If anyone is interested, here is the link to the before and after pictures. Any advice is much appreciated.

https://picasaweb.google.com/02603se...G5v-6vjZ-BvgE#


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