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1 Attachment(s)
Expensive Date-
How difficult was it to remove the baffels? Also, I see your dash layout is similar to mine in that you have no trim tab gauge. While I'm pretty good at getting it right "by feel", I'd sure like to have the settings visible thought a gauge. I've been considering options but wondering if you have givin it any thought? |
Both Ilmor and Raylar have 550hp LSx smallblocks available,
that would make a screamer out of a 292! |
the 292 is back in contention for me if Ilmor can come up with an sterndirve bobtail for their new 7.4L small block putting out 522hp! I would love a scorpion boat but for the prices people are asking I think tough to justify.
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Raylar has had the 454 smallblock/550hp LSx for Merc sterndrives out for a while now :
http://www.raylarengine.com/550_engine.html gives you another option.. |
Originally Posted by HTRDLNCN
(Post 3504103)
Raylar has had the 454 smallblock/550hp LSx for Merc sterndrives out for a while now :
http://www.raylarengine.com/550_engine.html gives you another option.. |
Originally Posted by 08 fastech 292
(Post 3503959)
Expensive Date-
How difficult was it to remove the baffels? Also, I see your dash layout is similar to mine in that you have no trim tab gauge. While I'm pretty good at getting it right "by feel", I'd sure like to have the settings visible thought a gauge. I've been considering options but wondering if you have givin it any thought? I have thought about putting mechanical trim drive indicators in,but do not want to redo my dash to make it look factory.I also am kinda bored with my boat so will just make sure the next boat has them. The baffles were not real hard to get out they are also stainless steel so the welds can't flex much before they break.I started by grinding some off the weld with a carbide burr and then......Man I'm going to get flamed for this used gently an air chisel with a inside muffler cutter.I just held it over the weld tapped the trigger and the weld broke.Once you get a few of the welds broke you can grab it with a pair of long angled needle nose,just keep moving back and forth the rest of the weld will break.I did most of them with just the chisel this cause no damage at all to tips.I did take my time though.You could also replace the tips but it really did not take to long once I got the hang of it first couple took longer. I did not do this at first only removed the outside one (there are two) I had lost about 100 rpm when I did my exhaust.But I had also done a prop change so I really did not think much of it.But then I was looking at a picture that Tim Sharkey took of my boat and it looked like the water in the exhaust was coming out under a lot of pressure.When I removed them the 100 rpms was back.I did not know that fastechs come with labbed props so when I replaced them I just put regular 28s on that was the prop change.Hope this helps any questions ask. Tim |
Originally Posted by Expensive Date
(Post 3503889)
Did you take all the pinwheel baffels out of your tips,I know we talked about it and I can't remember.That nice numbers with those motors.
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Originally Posted by turboz67
(Post 3504541)
Yes I removed the baffles, after I did the exhaust. I added the captains call to it. when do you usaully pull your boat out?
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Hey 4mulafastech, thanks for the info on trim tabs. What was the $damage when complete. I've Googled complete kits for around $3200. Does this sound right?? Did ya have to glass over the Bennet mounting holes, or just seal them because the K-Plates cover the holes anyway?? Any other problems with the installation??..thanks.....dave
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Originally Posted by Expensive Date
(Post 3504441)
I have thought about putting mechanical trim drive indicators in,but do not want to redo my dash to make it look factory.I also am kinda bored with my boat so will just make sure the next boat has them.
The baffles were not real hard to get out they are also stainless steel so the welds can't flex much before they break.I started by grinding some off the weld with a carbide burr and then......Man I'm going to get flamed for this used gently an air chisel with a inside muffler cutter.I just held it over the weld tapped the trigger and the weld broke.Once you get a few of the welds broke you can grab it with a pair of long angled needle nose,just keep moving back and forth the rest of the weld will break.I did most of them with just the chisel this cause no damage at all to tips.I did take my time though.You could also replace the tips but it really did not take to long once I got the hang of it first couple took longer. I did not do this at first only removed the outside one (there are two) I had lost about 100 rpm when I did my exhaust.But I had also done a prop change so I really did not think much of it.But then I was looking at a picture that Tim Sharkey took of my boat and it looked like the water in the exhaust was coming out under a lot of pressure.When I removed them the 100 rpms was back.I did not know that fastechs come with labbed props so when I replaced them I just put regular 28s on that was the prop change.Hope this helps any questions ask. Tim |
Originally Posted by Expensive Date
(Post 3502935)
I have never looked down upon you,like I tell some people I lived in Brooklyn for 9 years and made a living with gun belt on my waist so I may come off a little strong sometimes.
One thing I will always speak out on is trim settings on a stepped hull.When I bought my boat I went from a Jet Ski to the Formula.Most of what the salesman taught me was wrong and I realized I was way over my head.I spent a day with a friend, Martin Sanborn who was at the time one of the VPs of Fountain had raced for years and is now running the P1 circuit.Martin taught me the theory of how to run a stepped hull,not do this when it does that.The 292s are not an aggressive hull so they are probably hard to spin but it can be done.We have a new boat owner come on and gets the worst possible advice about how to trim his boat,other members agree and you have a problem with my response. What you have done at your age is impressive,but I have learned that sometimes trying to save money costs more in the long run.This is going back to the drive shower comment.I can make 400 dollars in less time than I could make drive showers.Maybe you can't yet but you will be able to someday and then you will understand what I meant. |
For installing K's, you need to reglass/gel the old holes and drill new ones. The tricky thing is that the two outer most screws will enter between the pre-fabricated stringer system and the outer hull. So you need to take up quite big holes inside the stringer system to reach in to be able to tighten those screws. Other than that, it's no big hussle.
For electrical and pump installation i mounted my new pumps just aft of the powertrim pumps, and jumped 12V+ and ground from them. In the panel, you need to remove the jumpers from the switches and then you can use the existing wireing and connector from the Bennets to continue from. That's about it! |
Originally Posted by rocket ride
(Post 3510676)
Expensive Date.....you must ahve been readin' my mind. I've been wanting to rip the pinwheels out for months......too quite, I like to hear my girls singin'. I reviewed you Youtube bit with your starboard engine runnin'.........AWSOME!! I have Captian's Choice, so I can shut it off when needed, but did the exhaust get Really loud, or just throatier??.thanks....dave
Its about twice as loud,not as loud as say a 525 with headers but it sounds pretty good for a small block.The only thing you may not like is at about 1000 rpm say in a no wake there is a slight noise vibration because the swim platform is close to the water.You don't hear it at 750-800 just if you bump the rpms up a little.Its no big deal just wanted you to know.I did not do it to make it loud but because there was too much back pressure going through hull with the props blocked off.I had lost about 150 rpms.When I took them out it was back. |
Originally Posted by Expensive Date
(Post 3510997)
Its about twice as loud,not as loud as say a 525 with headers but it sounds pretty good for a small block.The only thing you may not like is at about 1000 rpm say in a no wake there is a slight noise vibration because the swim platform is close to the water.You don't hear it at 750-800 just if you bump the rpms up a little.Its no big deal just wanted you to know.I did not do it to make it loud but because there was too much back pressure going through hull with the props blocked off.I had lost about 150 rpms.When I took them out it was back.
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Originally Posted by Berglund
(Post 3510707)
For installing K's, you need to reglass/gel the old holes and drill new ones. The tricky thing is that the two outer most screws will enter between the pre-fabricated stringer system and the outer hull. So you need to take up quite big holes inside the stringer system to reach in to be able to tighten those screws. Other than that, it's no big hussle.
For electrical and pump installation i mounted my new pumps just aft of the powertrim pumps, and jumped 12V+ and ground from them. In the panel, you need to remove the jumpers from the switches and then you can use the existing wireing and connector from the Bennets to continue from. That's about it! |
Originally Posted by 08 fastech 292
(Post 3501373)
Mine runs 68 WOT and will nudge 70 if conditions are just right. I had my stock 28P props labbed by BBlades. He put in a little tip cup to help with hole shot and it seems to give more mid-range bite as well. Boat cruises at 52 MPH, 3,800 rpms.
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Originally Posted by rocket ride
(Post 3511092)
Thanks for the tips, Berglund. What's a good price for the entire kit??
I've seen new complete kits for $2500 on Ebay. Don't know what the actual list price is. I bought my kit used for $1450. All outer hardware were like new. (Came from an Apache that had burned in the engine bay). Pumps were also used but from another boat, and was unfortunatly in a state below my expectations. I made new internal hydraulic hoses during installation, they were not included due to the fire. All in all I guess I saved $800 compared to Ebay price, and I would probably go for a new kit if I were to do it again. As for installation I did it all myself. |
Originally Posted by rocket ride
(Post 3511090)
Thanks for the info Expensive Date. I plan to use a dremell with a very small tip to grind the tack welds and weaken them till I can work the pin wheel loose. You mentioned that there are 2 baffles?? Is there another behind the pin wheel??.....thanks for your input.
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Berglund, does the kit include everything ya need to replace the Bennetts? .....2 pumps, plates , hydraulic lines, electrical connections, maybe template to show ya where to mount, etc??........thanks!!
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Seems this Q&A session about tabs would do better in the "Trim tab Replacememt" thread, so if any moderator would be so kind to move it..
I dont't know for a fact what the new kit includes since mine was used. But basicly what you need is the tabs which are the same for all boats. Then the assembling screws, which are boat specific depending on transom thickness. I used three different lenghts on each mountingplate. Then you have the hydraulic pipes which are threaded and also goes as a screw for assembly. Those were to short for the Formula pre-fab stringer and should probably be elongated in some way for best result. I've seen Formula themself just countersinking into the stringers to make them fit, with possibility of reaching the wooden core of the transom if not careful. I know of a 382 whose transom got wet through this missuse. So I really recommend making them longer. So screws in differenth lenths, a longer version of the hydraulic threaded pipe (possibly custom) are the things I would say are a bit special for the 292/Formula. Then it depends on where you like your pumps. I dont't know the length of the included hoses, but they will probably be enough for my recommended location behind the powertrim pumps. On port side I had to move the blower fan just 2 inches to fit the mount. I'm pretty sure mounts are included since the "internal" electrics of the K's are built around it. Summed up this is more of a rebuild than just a parts upgrade. The biggest job was to re-gel the transom from the Bennets if you ask me. |
Originally Posted by rocket ride
(Post 3510674)
Hey 4mulafastech, thanks for the info on trim tabs. What was the $damage when complete. I've Googled complete kits for around $3200. Does this sound right?? Did ya have to glass over the Bennet mounting holes, or just seal them because the K-Plates cover the holes anyway?? Any other problems with the installation??..thanks.....dave
Here is a post showing some install details from a while back.:drink: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...info-pics.html Dave |
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tpIjCil9kc[/YOUTUBE]
There is some good video of my boat starting at 9:39 |
Very cool ! expensive date. It was a great cause. Boat looked good running. How fast were you going.
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Originally Posted by turboz67
(Post 3517469)
Very cool ! expensive date. It was a great cause. Boat looked good running. How fast were you going.
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Originally Posted by Expensive Date
(Post 3515100)
There is some good video of my boat starting at 9:39
Off topic - I meant to ask something about your exhaust. I know you stated that it took some weight off, but what changes did you notice by not having the exhaust run through the props? Does is cavitate a bit less getting on plane? Does it hold a slow plane speed better? Thanks. |
Originally Posted by 4mulafastech
(Post 3517574)
Nice video and still shot towards the end.
Off topic - I meant to ask something about your exhaust. I know you stated that it took some weight off, but what changes did you notice by not having the exhaust run through the props? Does is cavitate a bit less getting on plane? Does it hold a slow plane speed better? Thanks. As per ride, handling it comes out of the water quicker and does not blow the props out I don't know if that is because there is no exhaust coming through them or the weight reduction.It also rides a lot better going over boat wakes it doesn't slap like it did before.I only did this because I needed exhaust and it was way cheaper to do the IMCO than stock Mercury,I never expected to pick up speed but the way it goes on plane was a nice suprise.As for slow plane maybe a little but I usually run like 50-55 if I'm just cruising so I'm not really sure on that. I could put 30k into her and make it kinda what I want,but I think I will just get into something else.Problem is I'm not sure what that is.Keep going back and forth but it will probably be a 35 Fountain..... at least this week anyway. |
not tryin to hijack the thread,...anybody runnin whiples on there 292.? Kind of a bolt on performance upgrade, rather than pulling motors and such, easily get better holeshot, mid ,and top end power!! just my 0.02 any imput /suggestions would be great.
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Originally Posted by pocketchange22
(Post 3517846)
not tryin to hijack the thread,...anybody runnin whiples on there 292.? Kind of a bolt on performance upgrade, rather than pulling motors and such, easily get better holeshot, mid ,and top end power!! just my 0.02 any imput /suggestions would be great.
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Originally Posted by Expensive Date
(Post 3517599)
The main reason that I blocked off the props is that the IMCO exhaust would not line up with the Corsa Y-pipe.There was not enough distance.Thats why I went strait through hull,I had also put new props on at the same time they were 28 stock bravos,my old ones had been cleaned up once.I lost some RPM but thought it was the props.Then I saw a picture of my boat running and it looked like the exhaust was under a lot of pressure coming out.i had already removed one baffle so I took the other one out.RPM back to what I had before.
As per ride, handling it comes out of the water quicker and does not blow the props out I don't know if that is because there is no exhaust coming through them or the weight reduction.It also rides a lot better going over boat wakes it doesn't slap like it did before.I only did this because I needed exhaust and it was way cheaper to do the IMCO than stock Mercury,I never expected to pick up speed but the way it goes on plane was a nice suprise.As for slow plane maybe a little but I usually run like 50-55 if I'm just cruising so I'm not really sure on that. I could put 30k into her and make it kinda what I want,but I think I will just get into something else.Problem is I'm not sure what that is.Keep going back and forth but it will probably be a 35 Fountain..... at least this week anyway. I know what you mean about getting something else... I went from a 110 mph Talon tunnel to the 292. Yes, it gets kind of boring, especially on calm water. I think you should put the 30k in the 292!:evilb: I might learn a few things.:drink: Seriously though, it would be unique having a fast Formula 292(sleeper), not to mention less $$. |
u clowns are bored with your 292 and I dream of one the irony
:lolhit::lolhit::lolhit::angry-smiley-038::angry-smiley-038::angry-smiley-038::lolhit: |
Originally Posted by 4mulafastech
(Post 3519742)
Thanks, that all makes sense. I usually cruise around 50 mph myself, but occasionally pull kids on a tube and low speed planing would be a benefit.
I know what you mean about getting something else... I went from a 110 mph Talon tunnel to the 292. Yes, it gets kind of boring, especially on calm water. I think you should put the 30k in the 292!:evilb: I might learn a few things.:drink: Seriously though, it would be unique having a fast Formula 292(sleeper), not to mention less $$. Turbo67 has a sleeper runs around 80. |
Originally Posted by 88242LS
(Post 3519748)
u clowns are bored with your 292 and I dream of one the irony
:lolhit::lolhit::lolhit::angry-smiley-038::angry-smiley-038::angry-smiley-038::lolhit: |
It should definalty Run 70;s, My 370 SS Does close to 60 mph. Check it out in the video below!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ftEjxjN--g |
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