Offshoreonly.com - F-330SS Bulkhead Replacement

Offshoreonly.com (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/)

- Formula (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/formula-36/)

- - F-330SS Bulkhead Replacement (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/formula/305467-f-330ss-bulkhead-replacement.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by masi242 (Post 4102549)

This project seems to get bigger, but your doing the right thing catching it early. On a positive note the weather is looking better.

Yea, I keep telling myself that :) Definitely an example of cause & effect. All started with monitoring the engine room bulkhead for moisture . . . That led to the fuel tank . . . which led to the storage compartment floor. It would be nice to get another 10-15 years of life out of the boat, at least from a structural perspective.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tpenfield (Post 4102602)

Ted, This is pretty awesome!

Now I know why you suggested doing a moisture check on the 370 I'm considering!!

btw, as you suggested, I obtained a 2001 370 SS brochure. They do indicate that it was built with "Perma Panel" wood products....I guess that's a good thing.

Also, I used a product for cleaning a set of Alcoa aluminum wheels that is a weak solution of phosphoric and sulphuric and hydrofluoric acid.

If I was going to ready your fuel tank, I would do a quick etch with that or a similar solution, rinse well with water, dry it and then prime it with zinc chromate or other aluminum specific primer.

Cheers,

Rick

Hey, Rick:

Thanks for the advice on the fuel tank. I have some Interlux Interprotect (2-part epoxy paint) that is advertised to work well on aluminum. So, that is what I plan on using. I will give it a 'pull' test to see if cured foam breaks off rather than pulling the paint.

The nice thing with perma panel construction is that the moisture will not lead to rot, which gives you better options of drying out any portions of the structure that are wet. I *thought* that the 370 and the 400 had the fiberglass/foam stringer grid system, rather than the wood core construction that the 330, 280 and 260 have.

An oscillating tool works good for cutting out the fiberglass in tight places.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tpenfield (Post 4104035)

I *thought* that the 370 and the 400 had the fiberglass/foam stringer grid system, rather than the wood core construction that the 330, 280 and 260 have.

now I don't know about that. I got the info from the 2001 Brochure. AND it sounds like it's all the models too.....

Quote:

THE STRINGER SYSTEM
CONSTRUCTING®
OF PERMA P ANEL EXTENDS LONGEVITY
OF A FORMULA SUN SPORT .
• This specialty marine plywood is guaranteed
not to succumb to fungal decay under
normal marine conditions.
• Perma Panel is pressure-treated with
Osmose® CCA, preventing the fungi
that causes some boats’ premature
stringer failure.

Quote:

FORMULA STRINGER ’S SYSTEM UNIQUE ENSURES SUSPENDED
THE HIGHEST
INTEGRITY FOR EACH SUN SPORT MODEL.
• Each
hull is reinforced with a custom-engineered
matrix that is much stronger than the usual
stringer system.
• In the 260s, 280s and the 330, this framework,
cut by C-N-C routers, is encapsulated in resin and
laminated to the hull while suspended on jigs.
• Using biaxial fiberglass as a bridge, this unique method
eliminates contact distortion and creates a sturdy,
level base so components fit perfectly every time.
• The Super Sport’s
one-piece fiberglass structural grid is bonded
to the hull using Plexus® adhesive as the bridge, adding strength
while eliminating contact distortion.

I think you'd need to ask Formula themselves to find out which models have no wood in the stringers. It sure would be a good idea to do it that way.

Maybe they are doing in the newer models..... I didn't find a newer brochure. The one I'm looking at is a 2003 model.....

That epoxy paint will work well. I'm pretty sure Interlux suggests some sort of an aluminum etch prep so the stuff will stick.

The 370 and the 400 are "super sports". The others in the smaller sizes are "sun sports"

T, I pulled my gas tank hatch the other day to put some backing plates on, I will be closing it up soon would you know what caulk to use to,seal,it up with I would like to stay away from 4200-5200 in case I need to pull again.

Thanks

Mark

Quote:

Originally Posted by masi242 (Post 4104130)

I don't know what Formula uses, but I have used regular Silicon II to seal it back up. I would think that you could use 4200 as well, since you have to cut the seal to remove the hatch.

In other news . . .

I have ordered a bunch of supplies from US Composites

3 gallons of Vinyl Ester Resin

20 Cubic Foot Kit of 2-part Foam (4 lb density)

This should arrive early next week, just in time to do some glassing of the new structural components.

Update: 12 April 2014

I managed to cut out the storage compartment sub floor using my sawzall and various other tools.

Here is the area with the structure removed and the tabbing areas ground down a bit.

http://home.comcast.net/~tpenfield/F...s/IMG_4007.jpg

I have a bunch of card board that I am going to use to make templates for the main bulkhead and the storage area structure components.