Trailer for 292
 

Any idea what you would expect to pay for a good steel or aluminum trailer made for a 292? Can you get away with tandem axles....or do you need triples? Best brake setup? Looking for advice on options and brands. Thanks!!

I would recommend triple torsion axles with electric over hydraulic disk brakes on at least two axles. I've always liked aluminum for corrosion resistance and lightening the load of the boat/trailer. easy to pull a boat/hard to stop it!!! Prices range widely and I'm not in the KY area, so not sure what to say there.

SR1 or Fastech

Smokin Gun had a good aluminium float on trailer for sale check with him

I have a McClain aluminum trailer for my boat. All mechanical connections no welds on the whole trailer so if somethings damaged can bold up new factory parts. I have the tandem torsion 8300# set up with disc breaks (my boat weighs 6K dry). Hauls like its on rails behind my F250. They're triple axel trailers I think start at around 10K carrying capacity. Payed Around $6k w/ all the upgrades out the door couple years back. Hope this helps.

Just went thru this 2 years ago. Tube steel trailer was rusting out and was not fit for road use, only yard use. I price aluminum I beam trailers, and steel and aluminum c channel welded trailers. I chose to go with the steel c channel welded trailer.

I chose 2 axels with 16" wheels and E rated trailer tires. I got away from the 14" wheels simple because you cannot get a trailer tire to last under much load on a 14" wheel. I can go to any auto store and get a 16" tire to fit if I am in a bind and my spare has already blown.

I chose springs over torsion simple for the replacement later on.

I went with a galv dipped trailer with ss fasteners. I do travel to salt water on occasion.

I went steel over alum due to hearing stories of boaters having fatigue cracking at the welds of alum or center span of a c channel. I have not seen a steel trailer crack due to regular use, and if it does I can fix in my shop with my current tools and not have to worry about a special alloy welding rod/wire ect.

To date I am very pleased with my trailer. I paid good money between 9 and 10k but I do not want a broken trailer ever, at any point in my travels. I usually tow with wife and child in truck and I would hate to have them stranded on the side of the road if I can prevent it. The 30% up charge for a fully welded trailer over an I beam is money well spent.

I chose loadmaster out of Ohio, they have the best customer support I have come across when I was shopping for a trailer.

I did not call myco for a quote simply because I was pretty sure they were out of my budget range, maybe I should have but I just didn't.

I would strongly suggest having adjustable bunks, we welded on type leave you no adjustability, and what if they are wrong......most trailer mfgs are hours drives unless you are luck and being able to fine tune the fit once you are back home is a huge plus.

my load master tows perfectly straight and I have about 10k miles on it now and tires have worn exactly the same, and all I have had to do was general maintenance on the bearings, and lube the tongue slide.

Oh and go EOH, I wish like hell I would have, and have considered doing the retrofit.


LC

My 312 fastech is on a dual axle steel with EOH brakes. I towed it all the way back from Lake Havasu to Huntsville, Al with no problems.

I am a huge fan of Performance Boat trailers in Lake George, he's does most every rig a new Outerlimits comes on, he did one for my 271 a few years back, I really miss that trailer, it was steel, but the welding was incredible, quality was great, price was really competitive, it was that or a Manning @ the time, he was a bit less and I went there, but a friend is on his second manning and its truely just as nice,

My 303 rides on a tandem Myco, no issues, I do tow with a half, no sway or anything it is perfectly balanced, (thats key) I do alotta in and out of the driveway, so a tandem just fits better, I do a few trips a year with no issues, with that said if you tow alotta miles like some on here do, I'd go triple, I can't believe the amount of fella's on here that travel 2/3 hours one way every weekend, if its more around town I'd stay with a heavy tandem,

I would recommend a tandem over triple axle anytime possible!

I purchased a Loadmaster a couple of years ago for my 32 Fountain and I am very happy with it. I went with the 8" C-Channel steel frame, three 6000 pound axles with brake on all, painted to match boat with the word fountain on the frame, the better v-block stop, aluminum wheels and all led lights. Paid in the 8-9000 dollar range.

The boat is a fastech....not an SR1. The option I have now is a loadmaster aluminum with disk brakes, all wheels, disk surge brakes and led lights. This is the Florida loadmaster company, and I guess they will custom fit the boat to the trailer with steps where needed and get the tounge weight correct.
I am considering eoh upgrade based on this feedback....anything else? it will only be in freshwater, but also think I will make sure all hardware is stainless.

Thanks for the feedback....keep the ideas coming.

For that size I would think double is enough. Running down the road I love triples but the maneuverability suffers in tight corners.

Not a fan of aluminum. The one on my last boat floated. Seriously. Not fun when loading

This is very common, and can easily be combated by adding weights and or using non-wood bunks.

Well, based on the feedback, I am changing gears and getting a steel trailer. This is what I had under my powerquest...and it looked great and was fine for fresh water. Should have prices tomorrow from Myco. Aluminum bolted together trailer was going to be almost 7k....and it looked like it belonged under a fishing boat. Gonna paint it to match the boat. Plan to do eoh, add a spare and bracket.

Any need to do disc over drum? Had drums on my last trailer and it was fine...

choices, when I built mine for my 271 I went 4 wheels drum surge, really it was awesome, now that i have a newer truck I may have chose the EOH option,

If you are going to pay Myco coin, go ahead and go aluminum. They can paint it to match just like a steel trailer.
I would never, ever buy a steel trailer. You are decimating your resale market, as most folks do not want to spend coin on a trailer when they are scraping two nickels together to buy their next boat. Buy the aluminum so anyone near a coast will have no qualms on buying it.

I guarantee you that an aluminum Myco will NOT float. I'll put a steak dinner on it.

Also, while you are at it; call Ron at Manning trailer in Michigan. Their quality is right up there with Myco. Their price is not. He can also do welded aluminum.

Welded aluminum cracks with flex. There's not too much to a boat trailer

seriously call loadmaster ohio, talk with Meghan or Gary Jr. Great folks.

http://www.loadmastertrailerco.com/performance-hulls/

Still shopping...but got the prices for the Myco and a Manning. Looks like there is a big advantage to going with the Manning......
So far, I will EOH disk,
16" wheels
2 7k axles
Spare tire and mount

Other options could be cad coated calipers and stainless rotors
Tool box
Reverse lights.

Any opinions on these options? I kind of like the idea of a box for chocks and other stuff.

Thoughts?

You Then would have a awesome trailer!

of those options. i would choose back up lights, and the box. i put backup lights on mine when i did the led conversion and i love them.

I think you mean Cadmium rotors, and Stainless calipers. This is a great upgrade, IMHO.
Also, go with the box. You are right on keeping stuff in there. Chocks, jack, fluids, spare parts.
1) Make sure the box is mounted HIGH so if you get to a ramp that is really flat/shallow, you don't have to dunk the trailer so far that the trailer box gets wet.
2) Also, make sure the electronics for the EoH brakes are mounted HIGH as well, for same reason.

The ONLY thing I don't like about Manning trailers is that he typically uses wood blocks covered in carpet for the V-bow stop. I don't like this. It's too harsh on the boat. The grey rubber blocks that Myco uses are better. Make sure you either source these for Ron, or ensure he puts them on your trailer.
I use a spray wax on my rubber V-blocks before I retrieve the boat (which I keep in the took box). I spray the rubber V-blocks down with the wax before retrieving, and just wipe the wax off the boat. It works slicker than frog snot, literally.

Also, I'd go with two spare tires. You can never have too many; especially if you are going to take long trips. If configured correctly, they can be on either side of the V-block/bow stop and act as additional guides to put the boat on the trailer. If you want to go cat's ass; you can have two spare spindles mounted with hubs full of bearings and everything so if you blow a bearing, you can slap on a new hub and be on your way in minutes.