Want a dry formula sr1
 

I really like the looks and features of the sr1 formula boats. It seems to be an uphill battle to find one with a non wet fuel tank foam that eventually causes rot and other problems in that area. Finding one that is repowered would be nice too. Maybe I should just move up to a fastech formula to get away from some of these issues? I'm open to any educational advice.:daz:

given that those boats are 25-30 years old, it will be hard to find an SR1 (1987 - 1991) series without some moisture issue, unless it has been re-built recently.

Even if the engine bay is kept dry, condensation from daily temperature changes puts moisture on the tank and it slowly works it way down through the trimmed foam around the tank.

Maybe if you find a boat that has been stored in a heated building its who life, but what are the odds of that?

Hmmmm - I am on the edge of selling, but I may have what your looking for.

how can you test for moisture in foam around the tank on that boat? isn't the foam locked in between the stringers and bulkheads? i.e. wouldn't you have to pull the floor up?

the 'best' way may be an infrared camera. With a little bit of access you could take a core sample from the foam, but that is somewhat a 'destructive' test and would not be done as part of a survey. Checking the lower part of the engine room bulkhead for elevated moisture is another way to check.

So soon????

Seems like you could pick up an older sr1 and have the stringers done for less than what some of the turn key fast techs are going for.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1017...40613789439574

Mine is dry.

How much $$$$$ would the cost be to replace possible corroded fuel tank and surrounding rotting stringers on a sr1 311 approximately???

$8K . . . approximately.

Everything is for sale at the right price. Haha. Motors are still out right now, transom items almost finished up,start prepping bilge and paint bilge soon.

This one sr1 I looked at the lower part of the bulkhead would show over 30% moisture after a bit of use , then the owner would dry it out somehow so it would only register 11% moisture. I'm worried water is trapped sloshing around in that fuel cell compartment and rot has started???

[QUOTE=tpenfield;4481283]$8K . . . approximately.[/QUOTE
I have read and followed Audiofns threads about a sr1 rebuild that were very informative. I am currently looking at a very nice 311 sr1 with moisture in the foam around the fuel tank area. Both bulkheads fore and aft the cockpit area appear to be in good shape still. Engine stringers and Transom are dry and have no issues yet. The rear bulkhead shows over 30% moisture after little use then the owner is able to dry it out to 11% some how. What kind of cost would be incurred to change the fuel tank, wet foam and any rotten stringers or bulkheads in that area. I would probably job this task out. Is it worth it??? I really like the looks of the sr1. It already has a good trailer, new engines, re apolstered cockpit, new imron paint. Looks sharp. But only for the right total price. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Or I could skip this all together and look for a newer dry boat. Don't know if 8gs will cover everything.

If it is just the fuel tank and foam, then it is not too bad.

I am wondering about how the moisture in the foam was detected? Also about the 30% moisture now down to 11%?

Typically what happens is that water from condensation due to daily temperature changes seeps down through the foam at a very slow rate (since it is closed cell foam). the water accumulates along the keel and builds up over time. The moisture in the bulkhead usually gets it from the moisture that is building up in the fuel tank bay. The stringers (both the main stringers and the engine room stringers) get moisture from the bulkhead. It is a sequential process that starts in the fuel tank bay.

Assuming that it would be just the fuel tank and foam, and the bulkheads (fore & aft of the tank) can be dried out. I did the same sort of thing on my 1991 242.

The large deck hatch the covers the fuel tank would be removed
The foam around the sides of the tank would need to be cut out
The tank would need to be 'popped' out of the remaining foam
The fuel tank bay would need to be cleaned out and dried out
Assume that a new tank would be in order ($1500 - $2000)
Barrier coat the tank
Re-install the tank
Re-foam the tank installation
Trim the foam
Re-connect and test everything
Re-install the deck hatch

So, I'm thinking you might have 60 hours of labor and $2000 - $2500 in material

If the bulkhead is not salvageable, then it is a whole different ballgame.

There is a guy on this forum ('shakeanbake') taking apart a 1990 292 SR1 for a full restoration and he may find similar issues.

Quote Originally Posted by Rattlesnake Jake View Post

So soon????


He hasn't used it since last year...might as well get it to someone that will use it....

I'll be more than happy to put it back together and splash it.:p

BTW, What's the holdup??

My mechanic. No - we didn't pull the motors until January. Supposed to have it done much earlier in the season but my mechanic got involved in some family stuff and then I have been busy spending time with family and baby, camping or using the four wheeler on the weekends. If I wasn't doing that, I was out of town or on a friends boat. It also doesn't help we are in the middle of moving to a new house that we renovated the entire house. I didn't want to rush it and put it back together, motors were fired on the stands about a month ago, only thing left is prepping and painting bilge and droping the motors back in. However, after this weekend, I am gone 2 weekends in a row so I'm not rushing it, boat is inside doing just fine haha