Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Owners Forum > Formula
Fresh water flush options >

Fresh water flush options

Notices
Formula

Fresh water flush options

Old 12-08-2017, 10:06 AM
  #11  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
formula1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Southwest, FL
Posts: 935
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Mentalpause, you got any pictures or details of how that platform is attached to the back of the lift? It seems like the lift has to lift a ton of water when the boat is being lifted up. I don't think that would be a problem for me though, since the lift is rated for up to 24k pounds and the boat is only ~9k pounds. One other thought, would that much wood make the lift float?
.
formula1 is offline  
Old 12-08-2017, 10:24 AM
  #12  
Forum Regulator
VIP Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Sydwayz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Worldwide
Posts: 23,820
Received 1,188 Likes on 515 Posts
Default

I don't have any personal experience, but member ActiveShack had a 2' wide 'cat-walk' across the back of his lift, and he was able to do all maintenance and cleaning on his 37' Active Thunder; and his stuff was always perfect. Obviously, 4-5' would be a ton better.
Sydwayz is offline  
Old 12-08-2017, 11:06 AM
  #13  
Registered
 
Mentalpause's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: IL...XLOTO
Posts: 3,942
Received 88 Likes on 53 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by formula1
Mentalpause, you got any pictures or details of how that platform is attached to the back of the lift? It seems like the lift has to lift a ton of water when the boat is being lifted up. I don't think that would be a problem for me though, since the lift is rated for up to 24k pounds and the boat is only ~9k pounds. One other thought, would that much wood make the lift float?
.
The deck frame is galvanized steel, built much like floor joists. The top decking is not wood, it is plastic decking. The frame is attached in a cantilever style approach to the frame members of the lift. I can't remember how much of the deck members bolt along the lift frame members horizontally, but pretty sure it is around 2-3 feet overlap on each side. I'm not at the lake now so I can't take pictures or measure it. but your lift company should know how to tie it in to support the load.

The lift comes up fairly slow with the boat on it, so the water just runs off the sides as it lifts up. It is not a problem. And there is no way that little bit of decking is going to make all that galvanized steel float. My lift is 17K with a 9k boat on it. The last boat I had was closer to 13K and I had no issues with it either. You can easily add whatever size deck you want if you have a 9K boat on a 24K lift.
Mentalpause is offline  
Old 12-08-2017, 02:09 PM
  #14  
Registered
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: OPKS & LOTO
Posts: 917
Received 12 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

For fresh water flush...

For each engine.
This....
40615 - Webstone 40615 - 1-1/4" Pro-Pal Full Port Forged Brass Ball Valve w/ Hi-Flow Hose Drain & Reversible Handle

and two of these....
MERRILL MANUFACTURING IBMA125 1-1/4" BRASS ADAPT. MER IBMA125


I just installed these on our boat. Originally had the cheapo Perko flush/check valves. One was already replaced because it had failed and the other was cracked.
Inspiration from here:
Forum gift – winterization valve for Bravo drives Page: 1 - iboats Boating Forums | 660967

You can plumb a hose up to a readily accessible panel with appropriate hose connections. Also, makes for a easy drain on the raw water intake for those of us that have to winterize.

Last edited by Holy Smokes; 12-08-2017 at 02:12 PM.
Holy Smokes is offline  
Old 12-11-2017, 07:02 AM
  #15  
CBPBA's Walmart Greeter
VIP Member
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Pasadena, MD
Posts: 894
Received 14 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

The system Sydwayz described is the simplest, and most elegant. I installed this on my boat years ago, and used it every season to winterize the engines with antifreeze. This same system is going into my new boat next spring.

Just install a simple inline tee before the pump, and run hose(s) to Perko water inlet hose fittings. Attach the hose, turn on water, and start the engine. When done, turn off the water. This reduces the chance of burning up impellers eliminating extra steps to remember enabling and disabling valves. With that said, if you're concerned about the plastic caps on the perko, then you can always install valves. I never had any issues with the caps.

Install the Perko fittings anywhere, or install them in the stern. You could also buy a glove box similar to photo to hide them inside the cockpit, under back seat, etc.
Attached Thumbnails Fresh water flush options-perko-water-inlet.jpg   Fresh water flush options-glove-box.jpg  
__________________
K2

-----------------------------------------

CHESAPEAKE BAY POWER BOAT ASSOCIATION
'http://www.cbpba.com'

"Experience is something you don't have until just after you need it."
Keith is offline  
Old 12-11-2017, 07:28 AM
  #16  
CBPBA's Walmart Greeter
VIP Member
 
Keith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Pasadena, MD
Posts: 894
Received 14 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

And steer clear of the Perko "automatic", stainless steel, spring loaded valves. I tried them twice, but it appears the springs where the weak point. Eventually temps began to rise as the spring failed, introducing air into the system and starving the engine of sea water at speed.
__________________
K2

-----------------------------------------

CHESAPEAKE BAY POWER BOAT ASSOCIATION
'http://www.cbpba.com'

"Experience is something you don't have until just after you need it."
Keith is offline  
Old 12-14-2017, 11:31 AM
  #17  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Chesapeake Bay
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Keith
The system Sydwayz described is the simplest, and most elegant. I installed this on my boat years ago, and used it every season to winterize the engines with antifreeze. This same system is going into my new boat next spring.

Just install a simple inline tee before the pump, and run hose(s) to Perko water inlet hose fittings. Attach the hose, turn on water, and start the engine. When done, turn off the water. This reduces the chance of burning up impellers eliminating extra steps to remember enabling and disabling valves. With that said, if you're concerned about the plastic caps on the perko, then you can always install valves. I never had any issues with the caps.

Install the Perko fittings anywhere, or install them in the stern. You could also buy a glove box similar to photo to hide them inside the cockpit, under back seat, etc.
I agree with Keith. Added these for both motors, as well as genset and A/C, plumbed them directly into the top of each of the strainers. When flushing or winterizing, just close your seacock thru-hulls and your ready.
Treads is offline  
Old 12-14-2017, 12:11 PM
  #18  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Bradenton, Fl.
Posts: 614
Received 506 Likes on 201 Posts
Default

I like the idea of the added platform on the end of your cradle and agree with mentalpause. I trailer mine and have the flush at each engine. Simple hose plug and play. Times might be tough on dough, but maybe both.. The link to the kit is what was on mine when I bought the boat. I love it......

Hardin Marine - Engine Flush Kit Mercruiser 898235A01
AmiableDave is offline  
Old 01-19-2018, 11:51 AM
  #19  
Registered
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 460
Received 31 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Stay away from the pro flush plastic inline kit. One came apart while out boating and if I didn't notice right away we could have sank and overheated the starboard motor. It ruined our day and my raw water pump on that side. Cheap plastic. Get a metal ball valve like others have suggested. Good luck
oconnor marine is offline  
Old 01-23-2018, 09:28 PM
  #20  
Registered
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lake St. Clair, MI
Posts: 474
Received 20 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

I have the Formula Factory setup. Uses a line, but stainless ball valves and brass fitting for each motor. Don't use ANY plastic (it will fail), the ball valves will always stay shut and keep your engine healthy.
snowrunner is offline  

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.