2005 Formula 370ss fix list
 

Looking for some ideas with a few items I need to fix on my 2005, 370SS with 496HO's, and Bravo IIIx drives.

1. Fuel Fill Hose needs to be replaced from the gunnel deckplate/cap, to top of tank. Anyone else ever have to replace this? It looks to be about 2" hose which is now stiff as concrete. Is there any metal in the hose, which would prevent me from cutting it with a hack saw? The hose is rigid and worn out.

2. 3200 RPM @WOT throttle position (4906HO). I recently replaced a bravo IIIx and installed new shift and throttle cables. The engine this drive is attached to now only runs up to 3200rpm at WOT throttle position.

3. Crank Shaft Sensor (496HO) Any words of wisdom replacing a stuck/frozen crank shaft sensor? I have a very intermittent issue with one engine. It's running fine at speed, but for a split second, it cuts out (tach sinks to zero), then tach rockets back to where it was. You can hear it, and feel it while driving. Good friend suspects it's the crank sensor, so when I looked to pull it out, it's just stuck in there good. I'm also wondering if this is related to my 3200RPM issue.

4. Prop size from factory? What size props are you running with 496HO's, Bravo IIIx drives? My boat has 28p 3 blades, and I'm thinking it should be running 26's. Even before I had this most recent RPM issue, it felt as if the engines were lugging, and I should be able to get up to 4800 or 5000 correct?

5. Bravo IIIx ratio? What ratio should these drives be? Can't seem to find anything on the outside of the drives to tell me.

Thanks in advance for any guidance or insight.

..My first post, so my apology if format is goofy. I just saw this post today with no response after almost a year?! I have a 370SS with same year, engines and drives. I purchased used in 2016 and fairly certain everything is stock or original as manufactured. Ten years old, with only 110 hours!!

1). Fuel Fill Hose: My hoses are still original, but filling the tanks was extremely slow at the gas dock. Turned out the hoses had a 'valley' in the path between the deck plate and the tank on both sides. I cut out about 12" on one side and 15" on the other to ensure there was slope in the hose all the way from deck plate to tank. Problem nicely solved! The hose IS stiff, but still supple. I don't recall if there is a wire integral to the hose. I used a utility knife for most, if not the entire cut. *If* there was a wire, I cut it with tin snips or lineman pliers.

For items 2 and 3, I'm no help.

4). I did a fair amount of research and looked at a lot of 370's prior to buying mine. Literature indicated and every boat with Mercs in it had 26 pitch 3-blade props. My boat runs right on spec with the 26's.

5). Both my drives have a 2:00 ratio. (serial numbers 0W261813 and 0W261806).


I welcome direct contact if allowed by forum rules.

1) The hose being stiff is not an issue for me. The boat being 2005 means it was made with materials which are ok with Ethanol

2) Probably have the wrong ratio and higher pith props

3) Crank sensors are not intermittent, they either work or do not. Probably have some corrosion which is causing a break in connection

4) Curtcamp has you covered there, they should be 26 and PO has replaced them. Yes you should be in the 4800 to 5000

5) This is B3X ratios

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5550945c44.gif

Hi Curt,

1. I had to replace both fuel fill hoses, which had a "valley" in them where ethanol successfully deteriorated the lining. Gas was dripping into my bilge on my first fill, that's how I discovered it. The hose has a metal wire in it, I had to use a hacksaw to cut. I trimmed the hose to expose enough wire to attach it to the fill plate where there is a screw for this purpose. On the tank side, I bent enough (1/4" or so) to fit between the end of hose, and the neck. The hose clamp is above that bend, so no leak at the tank, and cut the hose length short enough so I have no more sag (valley) where fuel will sit after a fill.
2. Found a big hole in spark plug boot. I replaced spark plugs, installed new spark plug wires
3. Perhaps resolved by #2, most likely was a hole I in spark plug boot, and a touchy wire connection at fuel pump
4. Boat came with 28 pitch 3 blades
5. My drives are 1.5 that's what I was told, but more likely the 1.8's.

Thanks Alldodge.

The transition to ethanol in the Peoples Republic of Maryland has been a nightmare from the start, and it affected almost everything from weed whackers to boats, generators to snow blowers and lawn mowers. It's a real sore spot here. :) I don't want to add up all the repairs and equipment I had to replace.

If there 1:50 then there not X drives. Easy way to see if they are X's is remove a drive and look at the face. If it has the prongs sticking out for the standard wrench then they are not X but standard Bravo's.

If you can find a couple sets or 24's I would give them a try

Here are X drives

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...64a3f0c2ae.jpg

We'll have to check this Keith if they ever open the marinas here in MD :(