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Originally Posted by Ratty206ls
(Post 4757473)
Hopefully if you weld to the bolt it doesn’t weaken it to point of braking when you start cranking on it.if you can grind the head off will it leave enough to grab on to
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Originally Posted by Redneckcustoms13
(Post 4757474)
If you can post a picture of this dreaded work area, we may be able offer some brainstorming. I've had good luck heating with a torch and dabbing it with beeswax.
Many bolts have broken heads. Weld a nut to the remaining stud to get it off once engine is out. Any way to get a die grinder in there to take the head off? Be it a small cut off wheel used sideways and grind it a little at a time, or even a burr bit. Welding a nut won’t work. It’ll need to be a bolt. There is very little clearance between the bolt and the header tube. I might be able to get my die grinder in there. My angle grinder won’t touch it. I’ll grab a pic in the morning. |
If it is that far gone just grind a flat spot on the head or what is left and center punch it really good, drill the head and it will pop loose.
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That was also on the list to try.
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TomZ,
I have some sockets that have something like a tapered reverse thread chisel. (Not sure how to describe it) As it tightens on it pulls the bolt / nut in farther and tighter. I used it on most of the bolts and studs on a 68 Vette I was building. The Vette was from up north, needless to say A LOT of rust. I live in Fredericksburg and it looks like you are in VA Beach. I could meet you in to Tappahannock if you want to borrow them. |
Originally Posted by waterplay
(Post 4757541)
TomZ,
I have some sockets that have something like a tapered reverse thread chisel. (Not sure how to describe it) As it tightens on it pulls the bolt / nut in farther and tighter. I used it on most of the bolts and studs on a 68 Vette I was building. The Vette was from up north, needless to say A LOT of rust. I live in Fredericksburg and it looks like you are in VA Beach. I could meet you in to Tappahannock if you want to borrow them. Kroil did not work so I had to really dig into this to see what I could figure out. I started off with my air cutoff tool that was just a little too big to fit. It helped to get started but I nicked a header tube so I had to look at other stuff. Digging through my tools. I had forgotten that I had a Dremmel cutoff wheel set with its own shaft. Surprisingly, it fit within the chuck on my straight grinder. The wheel took the head right off. I then switched to stone to dig into the bolt shaft until I could see the line around shaft. Tapped the header and it fell right into my hands. Now we’re getting somewhere! |
What headers/tailpipe setup are you using?
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Originally Posted by Smoke eater
(Post 4757585)
What headers/tailpipe setup are you using?
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Originally Posted by TomZ
(Post 4757588)
CMI E-Tops with CMI to the transom tails.Heavy system... I understand now why they might have cracking issues with the Merc-spec'd exhaust systems.
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Originally Posted by Smoke eater
(Post 4757595)
sure looks pretty!!! We’re the tails custom made or was it something they had. I noticed I had a hard time finding anything for trs. Trying to do some ahead of the time research for my hopefully future boat.
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