Anyone replace trs drives with Bravo's?
 

Has anyone filled the transom and cut out holes for Bravo's to replace the trs drives? Did they use a driveshaft where the trans use to be or make new engine mounts and move the motors back? Just wondering how the boat handled after moving the engine back roughly 12"

Yes, buddy has done it. Engines moved back closer to 18 inches, i believe prop shafts came up 2 inches. Boat goes great.

Id look into the Konrads, might save you some aggravation,

The transom alone could be over 5k unless you are doing it

If I recall, motors need to move horizontally and vertically or have the transom redone for the different drive height.

I was strictly a Bravo guy for the same reasons until I owned a TRS boat, the feeling at the helm is completely different, especially around the docks. If you’re easy on them and watch how much HP you stuff into it, you will be fine.

Definitely enjoy both types now but I am now less skeptical of the TRS package.

I just hard time finding parts for trs and I kept burning up Borg and warners

What about using jack shafts between motor and Bravo?
Would have some wasted space but would be easier to work on, maybe

Upgrade to Konrad drives. The transom assembly stays the same; you use Konrad’s bell and drive. The standard 540 is two inches shorter than the TRS and there is an option for another two inches shorter though you’ll probably hurt planing ability with that one unless you modify the stern (notched transom etc).

The TRS is a great drive. If you’re eating transmissions, you’re a) grossly overpowered (easy fix, add clutches and plates), b) water is getting into the trans (if the fluid is pink and frothy you have a leak and it’s toast), or c) you’re leaking and running out of fluid (a bad drive plate can cause havoc on the front seal of the trans).

Personally, I’d take a TRS over a Bravo any day.

And to add... Formula says the 502 Bravo 311 (1991) runs 69 mph (390 HP 592). My 311 502 MPI TRS ran 67 no matter what, 70 on better days, and a best of 72. People say the extra weight and drag are detractors of the TRS. I haven’t found that to be the case with my 311.

I have a situation where I may need a new transmission, TRS drive, and transom work if it is damaged. I for sure need the inner transom plate and the input shaft for the TRS drive at a minimum.
I need to get it apart to find out exactly what's broken - but my options are (if I am lucky) 1) Hopefully just the driveshaft and inner transom plate need replacement. I'll pull the motor and drive, have the TRS drive rebuilt with a new input shaft and other wear items, install the new inner transom plate and put it back together.
If there is transom damage AND transmission damage I may either get another transmission and go to Konrads. What am I looking at for two Konrad drives? about 8k a piece?
The other option is to get rid of the TRS setup, sell off the good transmission and drive, move the engines back redo the transom for Bravo drives and live with having Bravos. At least they're cheap and expendable comepared to others...but I'm gonna miss that butter smooth shifting and the awesome straight cut gear sound when you put twin TRS drives in reverse with the Merc 420 rumble.

My advice on the Bravos was in the event that you found rot in the transom. A lot of guys seem to want to do the switch to a Bravo; I'm not in that camp. Your plan is a good one, and a standard TRS is more than enough for the 420. Rather than make it complicated and expensive... replace or rebuild the transmission, replace the broken parts, and refresh/fix your TRS drive.

Again - I really appreciate your insight. Totally makes sense if I find transom rot - I know the P.O took really good care of this boat and bought it brand new, has never seen the ocean, and it was trailered into the lake for the vast majority of its life so I am crossing fingers for no rot. If some flailing parts did a little damage to the transom, if its solid otherwise so be it - ill fix it and do what you said. That is really my hope as a TRS drive refresh and even the trans rebuild with the parts I need isn't the end of the world.

Thx again Tom

So long as no rot, the transom should be a-ok. The assembly would absorb anything that would cause damage. Get her apart and then assess.

Mike Mello (Sick Stinger) here on OSO will more than likely have parts for sale and at good prices.

Rebuilding the transmission is straight forward. If the tailstock is busted up real bad, I have at least one available. Replace the dampener plate on the flywheel when you do the job; it's good insurance.

Wishing you luck. Reach out with any questions. You can text me at: seven 5 seven 3 7 six 9 five 6 seven.

-Tom

I'm blending thread responses. I responded to your other thread earlier last week. :)

Awesome - well that brightened my day. I never would have thought about the dampener plate. Will definitely be doing that while I'm in there. I can't wait to start getting it apart and ready for next season - it sucks but I'm secretly excited for a winter project. It's at the marina on the trailer right now, I'm going to be moving in the next month or so which is the only delay at the moment - I need the new garage so I can work on it. Believe me - as soon as I can get into this thing I will. Promise to post a ton of pictures - maybe It'll help someone in the future. Plus I'm sure I'll get stuck somewhere at some point.
Thank you for the part source suggestions - I'll throw up some pics of the tailstock, my first time having one of these B/Ws apart. Really cool of you to help like this by the way, I really appreciate the input and your time. Your Good people :ernaehrung004: