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Originally Posted by 311SR1
(Post 4760205)
Do the trim limit switches do anything when you press the “trailer out” switch? Because that’s what she hit. The limit switches work when you press the trim up buttons, stops the drives from coming up any higher than they should, way lower than trailer mode while will raise them almost to the point the prop is out the water.
The boats on a slip. I’m probably going to disconnect the trailer out switch just so it doesn’t happen again. I’m the only one who puts it in the trailer anyway. I wish there was something to alert or not allow power to be applied if the drives are raised past the trim limits. My old boat didn't even have separate switches, it was one did everything. operator beware. |
Originally Posted by Mr Maine
(Post 4760212)
Do you have mechanical drive trim indicators?
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My limit switches appear to have never been hooked up. There are switches on the drives, but the wiring is capped off and appear to have never gone to the black control box under the starboard gunwale. Once the ignition is on, the trailer switch is disabled. This is by design so unless yours has been modified, the trailer switch should have been inoperable with the engines running.
Sucks to hear about your situation. Hopefully, this does not open up a huge can of worms (i.e., transom). You've got a big repair job in front of you. If the transom plate is cracked, there is a good chance that the transmission got hurt when it blew up. I would be prepared to replace the tailstock and output shaft, and then rebuild the transmission. If the transom is bad, yank everything and reevaluate the situation in terms of work required and cost (transom, stringers, bulkhead, etc). If a transom is needed, this would be the time to convert to a Bravo set-up. **I'm not suggesting dumping the TRS. You guys know I love them, but if a lot of hard parts are broken and the transom is bad, it's a valid consideration. Get some posts under your belt and post pictures. There is a also a great resource available on FB... Formula SR1 (powerboats). A lot of us on here are resident members of that FB group. Good luck with the repairs. -Tom |
Originally Posted by TomZ
(Post 4760299)
My limit switches appear to have never been hooked up. There are switches on the drives, but the wiring is capped off and appear to have never gone to the black control box under the starboard gunwale. Once the ignition is on, the trailer switch is disabled. This is by design so unless yours has been modified, the trailer switch should have been inoperable with the engines running.
Sucks to hear about your situation. Hopefully, this does not open up a huge can of worms (i.e., transom). You've got a big repair job in front of you. If the transom plate is cracked, there is a good chance that the transmission got hurt when it blew up. I would be prepared to replace the tailstock and output shaft, and then rebuild the transmission. If the transom is bad, yank everything and reevaluate the situation in terms of work required and cost (transom, stringers, bulkhead, etc). If a transom is needed, this would be the time to convert to a Bravo set-up. **I'm not suggesting dumping the TRS. You guys know I love them, but if a lot of hard parts are broken and the transom is bad, it's a valid consideration. Get some posts under your belt and post pictures. There is a also a great resource available on FB... Formula SR1 (powerboats). A lot of us on here are resident members of that FB group. Good luck with the repairs. -Tom Much appreciated input! I definitely have some serious work in front of me. As much as I love the butter smooth shifting BW/TRS setup - if there ends up being that much damage converting it to a Bravo setup will probably make more sense financially - now and with any future repairs. I'm going to be sooo devastated if the transom got damaged, but it certainly might have. I'll update when I know more. |
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