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factory logo crooked
My 2000 formula 280 br, logo on the back is crooked from the factory. I noticed After i put the "name" on it. I lined up the "nam" with the factory FORMULA letters and then realized the FORMULA was crooked. Now I got to remove them both and start over. Where can I get the FORMULA printed? I found out its 'bank gothic" no lettering place has that font.. any help ?
thanks https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d2ba995b1.jpeg |
Originally Posted by j272
(Post 4850036)
My 2000 formula 280 br, logo on the back is crooked from the factory. I noticed After i put the "name" on it. I lined up the "nam" with the factory FORMULA letters and then realized the FORMULA was crooked. Now I got to remove them both and start over. Where can I get the FORMULA printed? I found out its 'bank gothic" no lettering place has that font.. any help ?
thanks https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d2ba995b1.jpeg |
Originally Posted by badmonkey
(Post 4850038)
Contact the Formula Tag Group....260-724-1413
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Originally Posted by badmonkey
(Post 4850038)
contact the formula tag group....260-724-1413
u17316-01 |
I'd pull it and buff the sh!t out of the back and make the name a little bigger with similar font/color....just my opinion
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I would remove formula and not put it back
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I took the Formula lettering off the sides of mine. Those who know, know. Those who don't. Who cares?
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Another vote for just remove it.
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Originally Posted by SabrToothSqrl
(Post 4850216)
I took the Formula lettering off the sides of mine. Those who know, know. Those who don't. Who cares?
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I debadge every single truck I buy...looks cleaner and more mysterious IMO....only reason the nordic name is still on the side of my boat is because it blends and there is a decent sized scratch that it's covering up hahahaha when that gets repaired then it's all coming off
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Originally Posted by jtbooten
(Post 4850225)
I agree with this. Never understood why people put “Chevy” or “Ford” across the front windshield of their trucks… I like a clean debadged look.
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High quality stickers, you can use a heat gun on LOW or hair dryer. warm up the stickers and they should slide off easy.
if they are old or not coming off easily, use a sticker wheel. |
I agree. Boot the Formula decal on the back.
Bye Bye. :) |
Originally Posted by BBYSTWY
(Post 4850208)
I'd pull it and buff the sh!t out of the back and make the name a little bigger with similar font/color....just my opinion
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Originally Posted by SabrToothSqrl
(Post 4850246)
High quality stickers, you can use a heat gun on LOW or hair dryer. warm up the stickers and they should slide off easy.
if they are old or not coming off easily, use a sticker wheel. https://www.amazon.com/SATC-Removal-...s%2C119&sr=8-5 |
I would not use the sticker wheel. Never had any good results. Use a plastic scrapper and get the edges loose. Spray WD-40 under the sicker and start working at the edges with plastic scraper or fingernails. The WD will loosen the adhesive and help to remove it from the fiberglass also. It's slow, but it works.
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Originally Posted by Helmwurst
(Post 4850288)
I would not use the sticker wheel. Never had any good results. Use a plastic scrapper and get the edges loose. Spray WD-40 under the sicker and start working at the edges with plastic scraper or fingernails. The WD will loosen the adhesive and help to remove it from the fiberglass also. It's slow, but it works.
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I saw a guy at the marina use oven cleaner to remove the name of the back of his boat. Between the removal of the name and buffing the gel coat out, about 2 hours. Look like new.
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I have used "fishing line" (on cars) to slide under and cut/separate logos/spoilers that were attached with adhesive/3M double sided tape.
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Originally Posted by AmiableDave
(Post 4851091)
I saw a guy at the marina use oven cleaner to remove the name of the back of his boat. Between the removal of the name and buffing the gel coat out, about 2 hours. Look like new.
He didnt mind too much as they ended up painting the boat later. |
This combo is hard to beat. Debond is suppose to be safe on gel. I do small areas and neutralize the area shortly after. No issues so far. I never thought a plastic razor blade would be so handy. Used it to take all the old silicone off around my old windshield, some decals and numbers off my jetski, and more. Much better that goo gone or whatever Walmart sells. Debond isn’t cheap but it’s worth it.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...615ccf8cb.jpeg |
Originally Posted by jtbooten
(Post 4851168)
This combo is hard to beat. Debond is suppose to be safe on gel. I do small areas and neutralize the area shortly after. No issues so far. I never thought a plastic razor blade would be so handy. Used it to take all the old silicone off around my old windshield, some decals and numbers off my jetski, and more. Much better that goo gone or whatever Walmart sells. Debond isn’t cheap but it’s worth it.
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