VacuFlush system on 382
 

My system doesn't seem to be operating........so I'm trying to figure out how this system operates to that I can fix it.

From what I can see.......there is a vacuum pump on a vacuum accumulator/holding tank. There is a hose on the top of the tank that goes to the toilet......and the toilet has a foot peddle that operates the "flush" valve at the bottom of the bowl. Also at the top of the tank is another hose that goes to a "Y" valve. One side of the valve goes to the transom for pump out, the other goes the macerator.....then on to a fitting on the bottom of the hull for disposing offshore.

All of these items must be "vacuum tight" in order build a vacuum within the accumulator/holding tank. If not.....when you press the foot peddle.......no flush.

I checked the vacuum pump......I took it off and thought it was bad because I thought it should have a lot more suction, but after sending this to a SeaLand service place for a rebuild....they say the pump is fine and doesn't need a rebuild.

So............now I've got to fine a leak somewhere.

I think this is how it's configured.

What has a "duck valve" in it?

I get the vacuum pump back UPS tomorrow.....

Not like the ones on the big boats...

Not familiar with that setup.
The ones I know inside out are configured as follows:

toilet with ball valve that seals on bottom of bowl
to
cylindrical fiberglass accumulator tank with vacuum switch on top to signal the pump to stop running. intake near top, discharge near bottom.
to
vacuum pump (with 4 duckbill valves, 2 each side, all facing same direction).
to
holding tank - intake up high, discharge down low. Vent off top of tank to stink filter. Discharge hose has tee to pumpout fitting and to macerator. Macerator has high discharge loop above waterline to thruhull.

MY setup only has three components to troubleshoot for vacuum loss (toilet seal, accumulator tank, vacuum pump, and the 2 hoses connecting them).

YOUR diagram shows that you need to be concerned with a vacuum leak EVERYWHERE.

I'm pretty good at working on these things, and feel that SeaLand makes a dang good crapper.

I assume you have verified that the toilet seal is intact? Leave some water in the bowl and pull a full vacuum. The water should remain in the bowl indefinitely.

DO you know that you are losing vacuum OR is the pump just running too long? Once it DOES shut off, will it come on again by itself? If it just runs too long, your vacuum switch may be sticking (mine have done this on a few occasions). If it will stop and then start again on its own, then you ARE losing vacuum somewhere).

The pump has been verified. Shame, cause the duck valves are only $30 for all 4 and take about five minutes tops to replace. It's not even a stinky job if you flush the system with 5 gal of simple green and warm water first. (I dreaded it my first time - no biggie: nothing like the old Crown heads I had to put macerator impellers in all the time YUCK).

I'll make some calls to see what I can find out about your configuration.

M

Okay.........then pump creates enough vacuum to flush...........kinda, but never shuts off.
????????

Awright, The duckbill valves are on either end of the vacuum pump. If you were to look only at the pump itself, you will see that the in and out connections have a round length of plastic tube about 2" long screwed in. There will be a duckbill valve between the hose fitting and the tube, and between the tube and the pump housing. This will be the case on both ends of the pump. All the duckbills face the same direction.

Empty the tank, flush simple green thru it a few times and flush her out. On the self-contained pump and tank setup, I reckon you'll get some tank stink in your face, but there should be no doody in the valves themselves. Easy as heck to swap them out. They cost around $8 each x 4.

Troutly, yours DOES shut off, but restarts every now and then, right? Yours also holds water in the bowl, right?. If you do not have a peripheral leak (on the pumpout fitting, etc) then it should either be in the duckbills OR the pressure switch OR a hose connection. Don't know how to help you find the source unless you can "listen" for it (they usually make little seeping sounds).
Anyway, the valves are so easy to change, go ahead and do that to rule them out.

Nort, do you get "good" vacuum after about 2 minutes of pumping? Good vacuum is enough to create a good strong "POP" when you stomp the flush valve. If you are getting a weak flush, then you got a leak somewhere. If you get a good strong pop, then you may just need to tweak the pressure cutoff switch.

My pump valves lasted 8 years before needing replaced, but they say they last longer when the system remains under vacuum all the time instead of letting the valves "relax" as in a seldom-used powerboat (mine is in a cruiser and has certainly seen it's share of asses sitting on it).

Hope we're getting closer, here.