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New project......replacing TV in a 382.
My TV/VCR got a tape jammed in it. I finally go the tape out, but now the VCR doesn't work.
Question: How do you get the TV out of there? There are two aluminum brackets holding the face plate at the lower lip, but what and where is the rest held together? |
What TV is it and do you have a pic?
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It's the TV/VCR combo unit that is all white. I'll get some pics soon.
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you putting in a DVD Norty ??
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Originally posted by BigDaddy96 you putting in a DVD Norty ?? You know, if they make the same TV with a DVD now, I would. I don't want to change over to a flat panel and stuff (I dont' think) cuz what would I do with that big hole where the TV came from? |
get one big enough to cover the hole?
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Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by PhantomChaos
Question: How do you get the TV out of there? Probably held in by a couple of wood screws. Just take it out in the Ocean the next time that the water is rough :D :D :D |
there should be a stap over the top of the set, and then four screws from underneath.
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I agree with craig223!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
Okay.....this is near the top of my project list. Has anyone replace this thing? Is there a factory replacement kit to a flat-panel? What about a replacement unit? What about a replacement unit with a DVD? Any ideas?
The operations manual in my Formula Manual says the manual is for: VV-1300 / VV-1310W / VV-2000 (note those are "v v" at the begining of the model number, not a "w") |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
Originally Posted by PhantomChaos
(Post 1981222)
Okay.....this is near the top of my project list. Has anyone replace this thing? Is there a factory replacement kit to a flat-panel? What about a replacement unit? What about a replacement unit with a DVD? Any ideas?
The operations manual in my Formula Manual says the manual is for: VV-1300 / VV-1310W / VV-2000 (note those are "v v" at the begining of the model number, not a "w") |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
have 419 and repalced mine. There should be srcews on the very bottom of the cabinet btween the top. I think there were four. Once you get them out you can pull the panel out. I think there also were some on the right vertical surface as well. You just have to get down really low to see them. I hope this helps.
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Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
I contacted Formula about a month ago for instructions on pulling the TV out so I could hook it up to an inverter. I want it to work off the batteries instead of shorepower. They sent me complete instructions but I have them at the office.
Doubt I'll convert it to a DVD since mine still works. (We just hook a portable DVD player into the input jacks on the front) |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
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Nort - I'm your man. I have the Factory TV removal document (text below). I made a whole new panel out of 1/2" white plexiglas and flush-mounted a flat-panel TV with built in DVD player. (Not sure if I took any pictures when I was done, though!) The panel was pretty easy to make - I just traced the old one on to the new sheet of plexi. Here's a rough drawing. I threw away the original electrical panel door as well, and made a new one from the 1/2" plexi. I had to cut away some of the plywood vertical reinforcing panel on the outboard side to allow for the wider TV.
The DVD loads from the top, so the TV is mounted on a bracket that hinges from the bottom to allow it to swing out. The narrow strip along the top is also attached to the TV to provide clearance in case a DVD ejects itself. Both the TV and the electrical panel use flush stainless hinges that are screwed into the plexiglas edgewise. (Sorry I don't have any pictures of the completed installation.) FORMULA'S INSTRUCTIONS: "The TV/VCR unit is secured within the starboard side cabinetry with straps (Figures 2 and 3) that can be accessed by removing the cabinet’s white acrylic face. The cabinet face is fastened to the cabinet with two angle-aluminum brackets – one directly below the TV/VCR, and one above the electrical panel. Reach below the TV/VCR to locate the fore-mentioned bracket. The remaining bracket can be found just inside and above the thin acrylic “cover door” (Figure 1). Remove both brackets as well as the electrical outlet and air conditioning display (if applicable) from the acrylic face. (My Note: Formula uses a lot of strong double-sided tape to hold things together, so you will need to do a little judicious prying after you get all the screws out. Be VERY careful when prying off the A/C control panel.) Next, the vinyl-faced light valance board above the cabinet must be removed. Refer to Figure 4 for general locations of the three fasteners that secure this assembly. The two screws labeled “A” double as angle-aluminum bracket fasteners, and as such may have already been removed as part of the procedure outlined above. If not, locate the bracket (located above the cover door shown in Figure 1) and remove the screws. The screw labeled “B” can be found by opening the electrical panel itself, utilizing the round compression-latch key. With the panel open, reach up and back to find and remove this screw. Grasp the top of the light valance board, and pull it away from the acrylic cabinet face. Remove the cabinet face. With the acrylic face removed, the straps shown in Figures 2 & 3 are accessible. Peel away the Velcro straps on either side of the TV/VCR and remove the nylon strap from the top, back edge of the unit. The TV/VCR can now be removed for service or replacement." (Sorry I haven't figured out how to cut and paste the pictures....) |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
Nort,
Check with WAGS382. He put a flat panel in a 382 originally without a TV. Looks really good too! He custom fabricated all the hardware. Keep us posted on what you do. I need to do something with mine too. The original TV was "lost @ sea".:D |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
Originally Posted by C_Spray
(Post 1981604)
Nort - I'm your man. I have the TV removal documents stored on my computer at work and will send them to you tomorrow (Thursday). I made a whole new panel out of 1/2" white plexiglas and flush-mounted a flat-panel TV with built in DVD player. (Not sure if I took any pictures when I was done, though!) The panel was pretty easy to make - I just traced the old one on to the new sheet of plexi.
cartershome (AT) comcast (dot) net Russ C. |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
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Formula's current installation uses a top-hinged TV and a separate DVD player:
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Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
WOW.....maybe I'll bring this down from the top of my list. :D :D Awesome info Chuck, and thanks for the email. Is your install "behind" the plexiglass door, or on the front with no door. I can't really tell from your drawing.
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Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
Originally Posted by PhantomChaos
(Post 1982229)
... Is your install "behind" the plexiglass door, or on the front with no door? I can't really tell from your drawing.
Hey - I've got my old TV/VCR, and it still works fine, it's just that the outer case is all broken up. If you want it, you can have it for the cost of shipping. Maybe you can cannibalise the two units to make one good one. (Or just glue my case back together...) |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
C Spray...thanks for the email. I'll be pulling mine apart this winter once the engines are completed!!!!
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Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
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I am not sure how to get the tv out, but I think I know how the tape got jammed.
Jeff |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
Originally Posted by WAGS382
(Post 1982611)
I am not sure how to get the tv out, but I think I know how the tape got jammed.
Jeff |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
Just buy a new 382, your due for something new:drink:
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Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
Originally Posted by masi242
(Post 1983620)
Just buy a new 382, your due for something new:drink:
LOL.....the new one's aren't as good as the 2001 model? :D :D That's just what I heard...... :drink: |
Re: New project......replacing TV in a 382.
Originally Posted by WAGS382
(Post 1982611)
I am not sure how to get the tv out, but I think I know how the tape got jammed.
Jeff Nope....that is what we had to do to get the tape un-jammed!! Until that moment, we had tried everything, but this jump worked like a charm! Boink! :evilb: :evilb: :evilb: :drink: :drink: |
TV upgrades
What are u guys using for power inverters ?? Any extra batteries, how many. Looking to install a 13'' flat scren in my 27sr1 (mounted by the sink)
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The TV/DVD unit I found uses a 12 volts. It came with a lighter plug and a wall transformer. I just cannibalized the power cord from the lighter plug.
If you do go with a 110vac unit and need to use an inverter, you will probably need at least a "modified sine wave" type, if not a "true sine wave" unit. Cheap square wave inverters are likely to wreack havoc on anything electronic. I would think that a couple hundred watts would be enough. Check you TV specs and go at least twice what it says the current draw is. (Watts = volts x amps.) Found pictures of my busted TV and the finished TV/DVD conversion. (And YES - I did clean up the wiring behind the TV!!! |
TV 's
Just curious, how long does your battery last for w/ the tv on??
I am going to run a 1500 watt inverter, have a 160amp alternator and an isolator to constantly charge the 3rd battery. Have the battery, and isolator mounted, have to get my a$$ together and buy a tv. Your set up looks very clean, nice job. |
Thanks for the compliment - It took a LOT of hard work, including bandsaws, milling machines, and more. That was just for the acrylic ("plexiglas") part. You don't want to know how much work the polished stainless housing was.... :eek:
I have two Group 31 combination deep cycle/starting batteries for the starboard engine and house power. TV's draw so little current, I would expect it to last about 3 days before drawing those babies down! Since I can combine the two banks of batteries if need be, I don't worry too much about draining the house bank down. That's also why I use combination deep cycle/starting batteries. If you drain a starting battery really low, you'll cause permanent damage. Bear in mind that there is also a slight voltage drop through the diodes in an isolator, so your batteries will always be a couple of tenths of a volt lower. You can use a combiner instead - They usually cost more, though. |
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