311-SR1 spark plug change
 

Want to do a spark plug change on my 89 311-SR1. I did a couple on my 242 with twin small blocks and that was tight. This looks real tight. I haven't really gotten down and looked with mirrors, flashlights, etc., so I have not really scoped it out yet. But just glancing, looks like a bear. Anybody have any tricks on this? Thanks. Outlaw

It is tight between the motors, and you gotta pretty much do it blind. It's not hard to do though.

And you can remove the step plate in front of the motors if you need more access (then you can sit on the hull bottom in front of the motor).

You should try a 272 with BBs:crazy: You have it easy;)

Width-wise, the 272 and 311 are the same. But at least we 311 guys can get in front of the engines. Can't imagine maintenance in a 272 engine bay!!!!

I've got two seasons on the sparklers in my 311, I guess I'd better get in there in the spring. It's like an athletic event, you have to stretch before you go in. Helps to be double jointed too. And invariably, there will be a hose clamp end biting you or a bolt digging into your kidneys, a stuck plug boot or some other minor annoyance that turns into a huge annoyance because you're standing on your head and all of the blood is gone from your arm. Then,,,,,,,you drop your wrench:hothead:

Oh, the joys of boat ownership. If I wasn't so cheap, I'd pay someone to do it. I just can't stand paying someone to do something I can do,,,,,,,and I usually do it better myself anyway.

I'll just prime myself up for the job with about 5 beers, then I won't feel the bolt in my kidneys so much:D

Take off the sun deck and sit on the back swim platform. That is the way I did my dad's 272 with BB and my 311.

Well almost. I have Merlin blocks and heads , the problem is the exhaust ports are higher on the Merlin heads(making them even closer) , to a point that one more coat of paint on the hatch lift motor and it wouldn't fit:eek:
My attack plan is to lift the hatch and prop it up with something. Then lower the hatch motor out of the way and lay it back against the stern. Now kneeling on the back seat I can reach down under the exhaust manifolds and get the first three plugs. Then lay across the top of the engines and reach down the back to the last two plugs.
The outside ones are a piece of cake:cool:

And of course add another 20 to 30 minutes to retrieve drop plugs , sockets and ratchets:rolleyes: :D

"MO", in regard to the engines photo, VERY NICE...
Getting the hatch, hatch motor out of the way sounds like a solid idea. I'm the same way, I can't stand paying someone way too much money for a job I know I'll do better. I've built go fast cars, go fast motorcycles, am pretty mechanically inclined. What do you run for plugs? I'm thinking of going NGK's. Any thoughts?
Thanks guys for all the feedback. Looks like Sunday is "D-Day". Outlaw

Plus the fact you can get it done NOW not next Tuesday IF they show up when promised:rolleyes: You know how that goes:mad:
I run Autolite race plugs , they have a shorted ground electrode to unshroud the spark. Also have a plated base so they don't rust up on you:cool: I forget the numbers off hand , it's like 39somethingsomething( 4 digits). I can check in the AM but mine are 540's and Merlin heads. I believe it's the same design plug and Merc 454's(5/8 socket and tapered seat)

Mopower,
Thats' some nice freeking gomotion ya got there dude!!! From the looks of it, a little Vasoline on your forearms may help with the plug change-out:eek:

Just a tip for everyone,,,,,,a heavy-duty telescopic magnet makes life much easier in the engine bay:) It keeps shouting the "F-bomb" to a minimum:D

Gonna change my plugs in the spring when my interest level is at a feverish high. The "Bird" is hibernating right now.

"MO", yeah if you can get me those plug numbers I'd appreciate it. The plated based sounds like a winner. Again, thanks. Outlaw