![]() |
1988 Sr1-311
Has anybody looked at the Palm Beach 311 at Stongs Marine in Mattituck NY? I'm close to doing a deal but I want to make sure I haven't missed anything. Any suggestions about what to look for would sure be appreciated. Thanks,
(Soon to be) "hasa311" |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Is there a website address it can be looked at?
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
2 Attachment(s)
It's on Boat Trader. (I tried to copy the link here but it's too long.) I went and looked at the boat, took a sea trial and took a bunch of pictures; next step is a survey. I was thinking somebody on this forum has probably also looked at it.
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
The survey will tell you what you need to know. I have an 89' 311, and love it. In the rough stuff, for it's size, about as good as it gets. Plus they are a true 31'1", NOT including the silent thunder box. Good luck. Keep us posted.
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
I know of one in Sarasota that is only driven by a little old lady on New Year's Day. Contact Russ aka Formula Outlaw.
:) :) |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Originally Posted by Formula Outlaw
The survey will tell you what you need to know. I have an 89' 311, and love it. In the rough stuff, for it's size, about as good as it gets. Plus they are a true 31'1", NOT including the silent thunder box. Good luck. Keep us posted.
A few main items to check are the Silent Thunder Platform for exhaust leakage. If it leaks it probably also needs rebuilding. Check the bulkhead in fornt of the engine bay for rot. Check the engine hatch for water in the foam/plywood upholstery backing. Lift the hatch by hand, is it real heavy? Does water pour out the back of it. If so, you may need to redo the cushions. Check for hull blisters. If you have the boat surveyed, insist they use a moisture meter on the hull and transom. This is not a normal problem but who knows? Of course, you should have a trusted mechanic check out your engines and drives. Just few items to consider. As you can tell, I don't put much confidence in surveyors. You should see the survey that was done on my boat!!! Glaring mistakes, inaccuracies, too lazy to check certain things. This clown couldn't even determine the capacity of the fuel tank - it's stamped right on the friggin' thing for Pete's sake!!! What waste of money that was. Anyway, good luck, it's a nice looking boat. Ask us anything you need to know, we can most likely answer you - accurately. Dave |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
All good points Third Bird, (most surveyors think their crap don't stink, it does) do a compression test on motors, (make it the last thing you do, put new plugs while at it) expect to replace drive and trim tab indicators, possibly pumps and drive lube reserviors(round style are notorious leakers) . Issues with any boat this age not just Formulas. btw,I have 89 311 and love it. Good luck!
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
One thing I was told to look out for when I bought the 272 was water saturated foam under the tank. Also check the gimbals for worn steering pins and sockets leading to slop in the steering. Expect about a 3K fix if they need to be replaced.
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
[QUOTE=cuda]I know of one in Sarasota that is only driven by a little old lady on New Year's Day. Contact Russ aka Formula Outlaw.
Cruel, just plain cruel. Here I am in excruciating pain from kidney stones and I have to endure this humility. (although it is true, I haven't had it out since New Year's Day). But when it does get out, it's gonna be LOUDER............ |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
I tend to agree with "TBird" ...you can get it Surveyed but dont put all your beans in just what he sez ...I bought a 89 311 in April ..Site unseen but Surveyed ..lot of isssues that Surveyor could/should have caught ...from now on ..( next time ?) I will see the boat ...To me ...if you plan to leave cosmetics mostly stock ...thats very important ..hard to correct wear and tear ...motors/mechanical while $$ can be made better than new ...my 2 cents
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
1 Attachment(s)
Two most important items you need to be aware of. One: how do YOU feel about the boat? Does it feel right? Do you like what you see. Are you comfortable in what you see and the price you are about to pay? That is crucial. Two: remember, this is fifteen year old boat and things are going to happen to it. Little things like a guage doesn't work. Bigger things like blowing an outdrive. No matter how well a boat has been taken care of, after fifteen years things are just going to break, that's just the way it is. One important thing you can do is treat her with respect. Don't go out and "hammer down" to impress all your friends. The harder you use it, the faster it is going to break. Unless you have solid documentation showing this was done, before you even take it out, change all the fluids so you know you are starting fresh. This might be the most important thing you could do. Expect something to go wrong. More than likely it will, then you will not be devestated when it does. Plan for the worst, and hope for the best.
I am the third owner of "Outlaw". Purchased it in November of 2000. For the first three years, absolutely nothing happened. Then starting last July after being a tow/patrol boat for the Suncoast Offshore Grand Prix, two days after the race I noticed oil leaking past both propshafts. Had to replace propshafts, seals, yada yada yada, ended up costing over 2.5K. Two weeks later, I lost the entire rear axle assembly off my triple axle trailer. I only had two six inch pieces of "springs" left on each side. Replaced the springs with those new one piece units rather than leaf springs. Final cost: another 1.75K Then in August during the Sarasota Offshore Showdown I blew my port Bravo outdrive. Cost: over 3K. Then my trailer lights went out. Ripped everything out and started completely over, all new LED everything: tail lights, center rear light bar, five side marker/clearance lamps each side. Then ran a seperate 12 guage ground wire to each unit, connected everything with waterproof connections and then put five coats of liquid electrical tape over all conections. I WILL NOT have any more trailer light problems. Then when I thought all problems were finally corrected, on New Year's Day, as my good friend Cuda so elequently pointed out, I had water problems in my carbs from the boat sitting for so long. The stock Merc fuel/water seperators will allow water to get past so I decided to replace those with the ultra efficient Racorp units with the drain plug feature at the bottom of the filter. The problem was, these new Racorp units are longer and would not fit in the same location because the bottom of the new Racorps would hit on the fuel pump. So I went down to the local machine shop and had four two inch long stainless steel threaded couplings made up, which I then bolted to the threaded posts that the filter mounts went on, which moved the filter two inches further away from the motor and allowed the new Racorps to clear everything. Worked great. The threaded couplings cost me a hundred bucks. Then of course the stock metal fuel line would not line up, so I had two stainless braided fuel lines made up as you cannot use rubber fuel hose on the "pressurized" side of the fuel pump. Finally got all that done. Then I noticed more rust than I liked leaking between the manifolds and the risers. I don't even dare start it on the hose. Right now I know my motors are fine and I am not going to even think about taking "one more chance". So, with the help of our very own "Too Old aka Trick Marine", he gave me a hell of a deal on a new pair of Thunder EMI manifolds and risers to swap out. Remember, all this started with leaking propshafts. I wasn't going to do it half-assed. By the time it's back, it will be close to one full year I have not had access to use the boat. But when it does get back, it will be done right. PLUS, I am finally dropping that "silent thunder box" which I absolutely hate. I have never like those rectangular exhaust tips, they just don't look right to me. I know some guys like them and that's great for them, for me they just don't cut it. And you know what? The first time back on the water, IT WILL ALL BE MORE THAN WORTH IT. |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Formula Outlaw: Your plight hits real close to home. The while-we're-at-it's get expensive, both in money and time. But, that's better knowing you are only maintaining the boat half-right.
Wantsa311: Yes, there are items to watch for, and you're best off joining the surveyor while he works the boat. Ask questions, lots of questions, and don't let him lazy out on any of it. Compression test the engines. Considering pulling an oil sample from each engine and sending it to Blackstone Labs in Ft. Wayne for analysis. One sample wont tell you as much as a pattern of samples, but if there is imminent damage to the engines due to wear, it should warn of that. And from my own experience, I'll always pay a hi-performance mechanic to pull the valve covers and inspect the valve train. Is this a lot for pre-purchase inspection? Yes. Did it cost me $6,000 for engine repairs when that step might have prevented it? Yes. Finally, this is a Formula 311 we're talking about. Formula has honestly earned their reputation for quality boats over the years. And the 311 is one of the factory's favorite boats ever. While it is an older boat, and things will break, it is probably a very good boat, if it has been even minimally maintained over it's life. Keep a few thousand in reserve for "boating experiences" and you should be fine. |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Well said Chart.
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Many thanks to everybody who replied - you've all given me points to watch for before I plunk down my cash. Somewhere on this forum I saw B.O.A.T. stood for "Bust Out Another Thousand" and it sure sounds like that's true.
I can't be there during the survey on Monday, but I'll inspect it again and take a final sea trial later in the week assuming the survey is clean. I've had several phone discussions with the surveyor about my expectations and I think we're on the same page. This is my first Formula but I've had lots of boats over the years so I'll keep my eyes open. Mechanically, the boat had two new engines in 2000 and the outdrives were rebuilt over this past winter. Every gauge works and the interior is above average compared to others I've seen. (The sun pad is somewhat worn but I want to replace it with all white anyway so it doesn't matter.) I'll post the survey results when I get them. |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
tap tap tap ....its Monday ........what happened ?
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Yes, we want to know...........
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Well ... The short of it is I don't know. The surveyor was at the marina around noon and I talked to him just before he got started. Haven't heard from him since !!!
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Post his number and we'll all start calling.........
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
took like 2 weeks to get the report on mine ...however he did call me the same day he did the Survey and told me all the good news ......
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
I got some bad news from the surveyor. Although the boat looks great it seems that it may have some structural problems in the hull. Apparently there is a crack running along the center stringer near the rear of the boat that looks suspicious. In the surveyors opinion the boat has probably seen some hard use in rough water which kind of surprised me since there are no cracks in the usual places around the windshield and in the deck over the head. Although it is repairable I'm wondering what else is wrong so I'm going to pass on the boat. The search continues ...
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Dolt !
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Wow!!!!!! Have not heard of Formula having actual hull cracks, at least not due to waves. Ya know,,,,,,, crack may have resulted from water freezing in the boat at some time in it's life. I'd almost bet that's what caused it.
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Third, I think you nailed that dead center. I have NEVER heard of a Formula hull cracking from "getting air". I have no doubt whatsoever it was water freezing inside.
GREAT CALL...... |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Originally Posted by Formula Outlaw
Third, I think you nailed that dead center. I have NEVER heard of a Formula hull cracking from "getting air". I have no doubt whatsoever it was water freezing inside.
GREAT CALL...... |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Originally Posted by ThirdBird
Yeah, be interesting to poll our Formula friends here to see if anyone has experienced hull cracking issues due to use (or abuse). In any event, good to steer clear of that "Bird". Good find by that surveyor, he earned his money and the buyer got value for his money spent.
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
Originally Posted by Chart
I once cracked my head on the hull trying to inspect the trailer axles :crazy:
|
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
I am a High performance marine surveyor serving the PA NJ DE MD and NY areas. Call me and if you are still looking I may be able to look at it for you..
Martin Marine Surveying 215-852-6641 |
Re: 1988 Sr1-311
I'd have that crack looked at closer. If it's a gelcoat crack it may have indded been from freezing moisture and not be a structural issue. I cannot imagine a structural crack in the center stringer as having been caused by wave jumping - not on that stringer system. I would expect gelcoat crazing and cracking around the center strakes long before any cracking around the stringer area. Would also expect to see motor mount problems before a stringer failure.
You may indeed be looking at a superficial issue, but you need to have it investigated further. If further investigation determines that it is not structural, you may still be able to insist that it IS structural and use it to negotiate a HUGE discount... Maybe Martin could take another look for you. SR1 isues? They've been covered already. Wet tank foam is the #1 issue, along with the rot that it contributes to. Pre 90 SR1's need the hull to deck joint bonded better. Silent Thunder platform is prone to water intrusion on boats left in the water very long. That's about it from a boat/hull standpoint. Never heard of a stringer failure, but it could have been dropped wrong on a bunk or with a fork truck I guess... |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:03 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.