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What it might look like....removing the vinyl graphics!
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I'm seriously considering removing the vinyl graphics on my boat.............has anyone done this ? Does anyone know the proper process for removing these and the process to get rid of lines that may be left. I don't want to remove them and then have the boat still look like they are there. I'm concerned that the hull is a different shade of white (I'm sure it is) under the stickers..... I really like the all white look...of course I'd have to change the rubrail to white too.......and then maybe later I'll get a paint job or other graphics......just looking for some advice!
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
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Here's a few renditions of what it might look like all white......of course I suck with the paint program!! LOL! I'm definitely liking the white!
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
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It's done.....all white....fairing needs to painted with the white paint (as Ran Dom did), vents too! Looks like I found a winter project.... :evilb: ....throw in the new dash with monster guages and some chrome bezels and were looking good for next year !! I wish it were as easy to do as it was on the computer....lol!
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
most Fountain graphics are paint not vinyl - I believe imron paint & cleared over. You may want to double check your boat. That's kind of why I added to my somewhat plain design as oppose to starting with a blank canvass.
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Originally Posted by Ran-Dom 32
most Fountain graphics are paint not vinyl - I believe imron paint & cleared over. You may want to double check your boat. That's kind of why I added to my somewhat plain design as oppose to starting with a blank canvass.
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
you can put some new ones on like this......... :D :D
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Its impossible to get that glue off. I've had mine rubbed out and polished 4 times by a very, very good pro, using all sorts of different products, and its still there. I will need to sand and paint to get rid of that stuff.
The vinyl wrap people are doing must really suck. |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Originally Posted by u4ea32
Its impossible to get that glue off. I've had mine rubbed out and polished 4 times by a very, very good pro, using all sorts of different products, and its still there. I will need to sand and paint to get rid of that stuff.
The vinyl wrap people are doing must really suck. |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
My boat is a 2000.
The vinyl on my boat was the name on the side. A total pain. Was on for 3 years, and the glue has still been on for another 2. The factory graphics are all Imron. Still look like new, VERY glossy. The gel coat is starting to lose its shine, although I have a really good detailer polish and wax it every few months. On new Fountains, one can order "vinyl wrap" graphics. That is what must be a mess. I noticed that Shogren bought a 47 with vinyl wrap, ran it for a month or so, then stripped it all off. They would be a better source to understand the impact of the new vinyl wrap concept. For me, its going to be Imron in the future: I am so done with vinyl. |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Originally Posted by u4ea32
Its impossible to get that glue off. I've had mine rubbed out and polished 4 times by a very, very good pro, using all sorts of different products, and its still there. I will need to sand and paint to get rid of that stuff.
The vinyl wrap people are doing must really suck. "Acra-Lac" & a plastic razor blade..A little work & gone |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Nope, that just did not work. Razors and plastic scrapers got the chunks off. A bunch of different chemicals each got more off. Several different polishing compounds made things better and better.
But when you look at the boat when its very shiny, polished, and waxed, the location of the old stickers is obvious -- its visible. You can't feel it, and you can't see it looking straight at it, but its very clear looking at it from an angle: the reflection of the trees is clearly different. |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
3M glue and adhesive remover
bug and tar remover 3812 enamel reducer any of these,keep it wet and out of direct sunlight. scrape with a sample formica chip (Lowes or Home Depot) that has been sharpened on bottom edge only like a wood chisel. Sharp and safe on gel. Wet sand gel w/ #1200 then #1500 after glue is removed. Buff w/white compound pad and white 3M Imperial Compound and watch it shine! Don't forget to wax. BTW, PPGs' Deltron replaced Imron over 5 years ago. G$ |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Does anyone know where I can get a a white rubrail ?
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Originally Posted by u4ea32
Nope, that just did not work. Razors and plastic scrapers got the chunks off. A bunch of different chemicals each got more off. Several different polishing compounds made things better and better.
But when you look at the boat when its very shiny, polished, and waxed, the location of the old stickers is obvious -- its visible. You can't feel it, and you can't see it looking straight at it, but its very clear looking at it from an angle: the reflection of the trees is clearly different. |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
WD40 was always a good glue remover for me...and I agree with Lofty, the rub rail was a *****.
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Originally Posted by Lofty
I can get you new rub rail but it will run about $1500 to wrap the whole boat. It's not an easy job either. Think long and hard about replacing it yourself. As far as the graphics go. Ripp them off! These guys are right, the glue will come off and with the 3m buffung compound and maybe in a severe case, some 1500 grit wet/dry. It is a big job but nothing you can't handle. That boat looks GREAT all white.
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Originally Posted by Gmoney52
3M glue and adhesive remover
bug and tar remover 3812 enamel reducer any of these,keep it wet and out of direct sunlight. scrape with a sample formica chip (Lowes or Home Depot) that has been sharpened on bottom edge only like a wood chisel. Sharp and safe on gel. Wet sand gel w/ #1200 then #1500 after glue is removed. Buff w/white compound pad and white 3M Imperial Compound and watch it shine! Don't forget to wax. BTW, PPGs' Deltron replaced Imron over 5 years ago. G$ |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
carb cleaner works better then anything out their for getting the glue off.
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Get a heat gun...warm up the vinyl until it's pretty warm..it peels off adhesive and all for the most part.
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Originally Posted by Dago Racing
Does anyone know where I can get a a white rubrail ?
I ordered 80 ft. (4, 20 ft. sections) to redo my 10 Meter's rubrail. I bought it from Rubrails.com and it cost me about $300 dollars. I bought new stainless fasteners (#10 screws, washers, and nylock nuts) for another $25 bucks or so. Removing the old one was more of a chore than installing the new one. I'm shocked at the $1500 figure. Even if materials cost $500, a grand is alot in labor. I do have to forwarn you though, some of your cabin upholstery has to come out and the seats/side pannels in your cockpit. I used a heatgun a bucket of water and a large towel. Going around corners isn't too much of a chore. Take your time heat slowly and evenly. When the rail is in the position that you want, the damp towel will set the plastic and hold the new shape. See, no sweat. |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Originally Posted by bryanspeedracer
I ordered 80 ft. (4, 20 ft. sections) to redo my 10 Meter's rubrail. I bought it from Rubrails.com and it cost me about $300 dollars. I bought new stainless fasteners (#10 screws, washers, and nylock nuts) for another $25 bucks or so.
Removing the old one was more of a chore than installing the new one. I'm shocked at the $1500 figure. Even if materials cost $500, a grand is alot in labor. I do have to forwarn you though, some of your cabin upholstery has to come out and the seats/side pannels in your cockpit. I used a heatgun a bucket of water and a large towel. Going around corners isn't too much of a chore. Take your time heat slowly and evenly. When the rail is in the position that you want, the damp towel will set the plastic and hold the new shape. See, no sweat. Good stuff...........however I am shocked that some of the cabin upholstery, seats and side panels have to be removed.......that's crazy........still good stuff.......thanks for the info! |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Originally Posted by Dago Racing
Good stuff...........however I am shocked that some of the cabin upholstery, seats and side panels have to be removed.......that's crazy........still good stuff.......thanks for the info!
Good news and bad... Fountain thru-bolts the entire rub rail. There's a backing nut every 6 inches. If there's wires there, they have a tie wrap over every other screw. You have to put a wrench on each nut from the inside, with someone on the outside working a power screwdriver. The ones with tie wraps - 2 nuts, and the first nut has to come off by hand first before you can screw from the outside. Use a walkie-talkie, and save your voice. Oh, and leave the ole lady out of the project! Bribe a buddy. It's good that they stay put, built like a brick chithouse; bad if you need to replace it. I can't imagine doing the whole boat. With twins, the only way I could see doing it would be during the winter with the motors out! And up in the beak area, yuck. A lot of folks have done it, but it can't be fun. Good luck, Brian |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Brian,
Sounds to me like you replaced the hardest section. I had to drill new holes and consequently, replaced the run wiring along the rail because of cutting some of the wire. Didn't want to chance a short. Through bolting it is the only way to go even though it requires two people and twice the time. The old bolts were a chore to remove. The new ones went in well with a screw gun on the outside and a socket on the inside. Use the screw gun (light setting) to run the screw, tighten the nut with the socket. It is too easy to mar the heads of the stainless fasteners if you aren't carefull. Good winter project, plan two full days or a week of fiddling here and there. Do the project when it's cool outside so the neighbors windows are closed. You'll swear more than you thought possible. Bryan |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Dago, I painted your boat! Thanks, I always take "vinyl" as a compliment! Ocean Spray graphics package; If you can feel the edges of each color overlay, then it is Imron. We were transitioning over to Deltron base/clear about that time so if it was used, the edges will be smooth. If that is the case, a razor blade scraper can be used to shave the topcoat of colors and clear to leave a thin layer of epoxy sealer on the gel that can be sanded w/ a DA and #500 ,followed by #1000 Hook-It discs and buffed w/ 3W # 5936 Imperial III compound to restore the shine like new.
GlassDave made an EXELLENT suggestion that will make or break this project; sand the corners of the blade to a radius w/#220 BEFORE "shaving" to prevent unnessary gouges that will take lots of time to rectify! I would have revealed this to you earlier,but I just upgraded my account and now I can see the pictures! :D Please email me if you have any questions,( I like to stand behind my work) G$ |
Re: Removing the rubrail
:eek: You don't want to go there! Not only does the whole cabin have to be disassembled, but most of the wiring harness is attached to the thru-bolts with a wire-tie or adell.
The insert is another problem. There is a plastic adhesion promoter and flexible additive available from PPG that would be IMO a better alternative.G$ |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
Did My rub rail this spring And was not threw Bolted Just stainless screws//
Bob |
Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
The whole thing was screwed? How were the wire looms secured in engine compartment? G$
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Re: Removing the Vinyl Graphics ??
The wire looms in mine are secured by machine screws that are specifically for the loom support, located in the "Rain Channel" where the engine hatches are recessed into.
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