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35 White Lightning 05-28-2007 11:36 PM

Too Much water Pressure
 
Any suggestions I am getting way too much water pressure in my port 502 mpi it will bury the 35 psi guage and actually make the seal in the circulation pump leak and occasionly blow off a hose. I thought there may be a exhaust manifold issue (restriction) new thermostats, the manifolds and risers are cool to touch I even took the little rubber caps off the front of the manifolds plenty of water and that does not drop the pressure either. I have even tried to close off(partway) the intake hose valve. Engine runs at 150 degrees, and the starbord moter will not get past 105.

Biggus 05-29-2007 06:05 AM

You need one of these:

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...e+relief+valve

BZ 05-29-2007 09:44 AM

those will work but we built a much cleaner system for my old 1999 35 with the 502 mpi's. when it was done you didn't even know it was there until you got on plane and saw the water streaming out of the dumps. told people I had blowers after that....LOL......BZ

US1 Fountain 05-29-2007 04:40 PM

My '99 502's had the same problem, pegged WP at 3000rpm. Watch the large water pump hose swell up when running, you'll chit!
I spent all last spring screwing around with dumps, t-stat housing, you name it, I tried/experimented it. After getting no where and tired of screwing with it, I bite the big one and bought the merc relief valves. What a waste of time it was before buying them. Buy them and be done with it, go boating.

I did replace the spring in both on mine to lower the pressure a little more, to a max of 20 psi at WOT. The spring was only a couple $$. I didn't want to drill holes in the boat for dumps, so I welded hose bungs to the back side of the switching valves in my silent choice divertor valves for that clean look.

Rebel_Heart 05-29-2007 08:15 PM

I used the Mercury relief valves last year and they work. The mechanic cut the springs to about 12 psi.

35 White Lightning 05-29-2007 10:22 PM

too much water pressure
 
Do you think the current bilge dumps could be teed off and a check valve installed upstream of the tee.

Or if I could dump them into the little rubber cap on the factory exhaust manifolds until I change them

35 White Lightning 05-29-2007 10:23 PM

Any pictures of you fix thanks Brian

US1 Fountain 05-29-2007 11:02 PM


Originally Posted by 35 White Lightning (Post 2144427)
Do you think the current bilge dumps could be teed off and a check valve installed upstream of the tee.

Or if I could dump them into the little rubber cap on the factory exhaust manifolds until I change them

Don't see why not, as long as the check valves don't stick open. Not the best choice tying into your bilge system though. I'd make the dumps the straight path and the bilge the tee'd path w/ check valves since the dumps will be flowing all the time. Straight line shot.

Not sure I'd do the exhaust risor thing. Might run into water flow routing issues, creating other problems with the water already flowing thru them.

US1 Fountain 05-29-2007 11:03 PM


Originally Posted by 35 White Lightning (Post 2144430)
Any pictures of you fix thanks Brian


??

BZ 05-30-2007 07:19 PM


Originally Posted by 35 White Lightning (Post 2144427)
Do you think the current bilge dumps could be teed off and a check valve installed upstream of the tee.

Or if I could dump them into the little rubber cap on the factory exhaust manifolds until I change them


just dump them over-board...BZ


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