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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 2302283)
There was a guy in the Fountain forum 2 yrs ago that had his bottom blueprinted here in IN. if I recall correctly. Might do a search.
ask shall receive.......:) http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ht=blueprinted |
Originally Posted by Rebel_Heart
(Post 2301049)
Runninhotracing - I appreciate the information that we talked about this afternoon.
I am still concerned about the $4,000 price for doing a 35' boat. Does anyone else think this a little steep? EXTREME 517-394-0074:D |
Runninhotracing - thanks for the number. I'll be on the phone to check it out. I appreciate the information. I'll let you know how it comes out.
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 2302348)
That be da one Dan. Also I see it is IL, not IN.
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Originally Posted by RBT
(Post 2300433)
To fill you guys in a little more.
When you build a boat, regardless of how straight the mold is the hull shrinks as it cures. This is one of the reasons they release from the mold. The biggest issue is heat, good shops can control the exotherm in the resin, but most cannot control the humidity or air temp, a hot boat will shrink more. Generally winter built boats are better. As for the shrinkage, all the straight hard lines on the hull do a better job of retaining there design shape better than large flat surfaces. So the edges for the transom, chines and strakes typically hold, and the big flat areas between them shrink causing a concave area. This is most noticed in front of the transom as this is the most ridged part of the hull...... and hence the hook. A good shop will grind off the gel and fill the hook with structural filler then regel the hull...... and real good guys will leave the finish in 400 grit, with the sanding lines following the direction of water flow......... this last bit is only ok for boats that are kept on lifts or are trailer queens. As gel is like your skin and will absorb anything....meaning it will stain. Lastly... NEVER and I repeat NEVER wax your bottom. RT |
Runninhotracing - I called the number, but the lady that answered didn't know about Extreme Fiberglass. I repeated the number and she said that was her number, a private residence. Got another number? Thanks.
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I was under the impression all Fountains were Blue Printed Hulls from the factory? My 2001 Fever I swear it says so in the brochure?? With that being said, wouldn't one just be worried about a hook at the pad/transome and not the entire hull. I know when I am running WFO only about 12" of the hull is even in the water. Just something to think about.
Also isn't it easy to see if one even needs Blue Printing, just take a straight edge and place it along the hull to see if their is a hook. I would make sure somethings wrong before I would go fixing. Just some things to think about:ernaehrung004: WILL |
Originally Posted by 32storm
(Post 2303311)
How much filling and/or grinding is going to depend upon how bad the bottom is to start with. I had my Hustler done a few years ago, and saw minimal gain. But, the bottom was extremely good to start with. Shop I used in NY has seen as much as 5 MPH pick-up. but, all depends on how bad it is at the start,
32storm, Who & where in NY did yours? |
I used a 4' board and placed it in line with the bottom two strakes on either side of the center line. I didn't see any gaps. Does this mean that the bottom is straight? How percise do you have to be to detect any flaws in the bottom? I don't want to throw money away if their is no speed gain.
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Originally Posted by Rebel_Heart
(Post 2312207)
I used a 4' board and placed it in line with the bottom two strakes on either side of the center line. I didn't see any gaps. Does this mean that the bottom is straight? How percise do you have to be to detect any flaws in the bottom? I don't want to throw money away if their is no speed gain.
I just read on the Fountain web site that the bottom of all fountains are blue printed in the factory during the assembly process. Not sure if that is true, or just what them mean, but that is what they say. |
Originally Posted by Rebel_Heart
(Post 2312207)
I used a 4' board and placed it in line with the bottom two strakes on either side of the center line. I didn't see any gaps. Does this mean that the bottom is straight? How percise do you have to be to detect any flaws in the bottom? I don't want to throw money away if their is no speed gain.
I would use a metal straightedge rather than a board, a board might not be as straight as you think. And go out to 6 or 8 feet to get a better idea. |
I will try a metal edge next time, good idea. I don't think that Fountains are blueprinted at the factory. I know you can have it done for additonal money. When I spoke with Marty Boosinger, he suggested that there might be some hidden speed here.
Anyone else heard that all Fountains are blueprinted? |
Originally Posted by Rebel_Heart
(Post 2312960)
I will try a metal edge next time, good idea. I don't think that Fountains are blueprinted at the factory. I know you can have it done for additonal money. When I spoke with Marty Boosinger, he suggested that there might be some hidden speed here.
Anyone else heard that all Fountains are blueprinted? This quote is taken off the Fountain web site. I don't know how true it is, I just know that I read it there. Fountain has won more offshore World and National Championships than all of the largest 100 marine manufactures combined Fountain has won 5 of the last 12 Southern Kingfish Association World Championships and it has absolutely dominated the American Striper Association Fountain features a unitized construction which bonds our hulls and decks with pop rivets, Plexus, fiberglass, through bolting, 5200 sealant, and rub rail screws Our state-of-the-art hull designs include the notched transom, pad keel and super ventilated positive lift hull which makes us the leader in races won and speed records established Space age materials which include multi-directional glasses, Interplastic vinyl ester resins and high density foam core materials give us the strongest, most dependable boat in the industry Through vertical integration we build and control the quality of more than 75% of our boat's component parts by producing them at our factory including; bolster seats, bow rails, interiors, fuel tanks, windshields, canvas enclosures and much more All Fountains are built at our high-tech, on the water facility which is ISO 9001 certified in order to ensure ultimate quality Each bottom is blueprinted to exact specifications Each boat is water tested and tuned prior to delivery Fountain offers you an unmatched legendary image Unequaled resale value 6 year limited hull warranty Unrivaled fuel efficiency due to low hydrodynamic drag Incredible performance |
I'll call Fountain and find out. I think that is a general statement about Fountain hulls. I really wonder if they take each hull and take 3-4 weeks to blueprint after coming out of the mold. But it doesn't hurt to ask.
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When the factory 2 boats came out they all had they're bottoms done. Don't know about the pleasure boats. I would expect all the race boats get checked and touched up often. And it wouldn't take them very log, hours or days not weeks given there resources.
Jim |
Originally Posted by Rebel_Heart
(Post 2314035)
I'll call Fountain and find out. I think that is a general statement about Fountain hulls. I really wonder if they take each hull and take 3-4 weeks to blueprint after coming out of the mold. But it doesn't hurt to ask.
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I am probably going to wait until early spring now. I do need to call Leon D. and to Billy Reedy again for references. I appreciate the info - Runninhot. Did you decide, are you going KW for the races?
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Originally Posted by Rebel_Heart
(Post 2314644)
I am probably going to wait until early spring now. I do need to call Leon D. and to Billy Reedy again for references. I appreciate the info - Runninhot. Did you decide, are you going KW for the races?
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