rub-rails
 

i have a 1994 27ft fever.it has a white vinyl or pvc type.it has a few dings and scrapes and i would like to have it replaced.how big of a job is it?i do know that some of the rail is screwed and some of itis through bolted.also it is not a one peace deal.it is in three peaces.is this normal?i hade a searay and the rub rail was one peace.where is the best place to buy.thanks

They are made by Taco. If you are going to replace it, you may as well update the rail to the stainless insert type foiund on recent models.

It looks like someone mentioned it in your thread, but when I changed my 2000 38 lightning, the factory had the best price by far. Not sure if they can help you now, but you may want to give them a call.

I just replaced my rub rail, it is very easy.

Fountain only had 50ft rolls and I did not want to have numerous seams so I called www.gotomarine.com and purchased a roll of 250ft. I have plenty of it left over. About 180ft.

I had one buddy help me and it took an hour tops to do the entire thing. I used a rounded edge, silicone spray, and a flat head screwdriver.

I let the rub rail lay in my driveway for about an hour on the concrete with the sun beating on it. My old one was white and I put a new black one on it, the reason I did this is because the sun heated it up and it was very flexible when warm.

I pushed the rub rail in the center in the back using the edge of a mid sized flat head screwdriver. I then sprayed silicone spray in the rub rail and on the insert. I then fit the top half of the rub rail insert in the frame as my buddy held it up tight (about a 18inch section) and I drug the rounded edge along the bottom of it starting where is was allready fit in completely and it slides right in.

Once you get this going you can go really fast. If a small spot does not go in completely just use the flat head screwdriver and pop it in.

I would use one solid peice if you could so there is less seams. it looks better and it will last longer.

The key is to get the rubrail insert flexiable. Heat it with a heat gun, put it in a bucket of very hot water, leave it in the sun as said, it makes the whole process alot easier.

rub rails
 

thanks for all the replies.i like the look of the ss rails.just one thing,i understand the part about heating the pvc rail for flexably,but does that inply to the ss rail also?

ha ha

I think to swiitch to the stainless steel insert you have to change the whole rubrail (not just the insert).

That is correct, you will have to change out the base as well. Trust me, it is well worth the extra effort. Use a heat gun for the base and it forms very easily. The new base will not match exactly to the old one, so use 5200 to seal the old holes and wet install the new screws to ensure they do not leak. When working the stainless insert use a dead blow hammer and is will form easily was well.

What kind of $$$$ am I looking at to change over to stainless insert on a 42?

When I did mine, the factory had the best prices by a good margin. I would call them and ask. They will certainly know how much material you need even if they do not have the parts in inventory. I want to say it cost me ~$350 in parts with freight for my 38, but that was about four years ago.

Anyone else done the stainless steel upgrade? where is the best place to buy? And what is the current cost?
I am re rigging my engine bay completely and have almost gotten obsessed with stopping the water leaks. THe rub rail is somthing that has been brought up more than once for leaking and it is the last thing to change. I want to update so now is the time!!!!!!

I re-did my old 260 sea ray a couple years back.If I remember correctly I spent $ 1-2 hundred on parts (aka the newer pvc style w/ ss insert) I bought the PCV in 10 or 15 ft sections and the ss insert around the same length at the sea ray dealer.It wasnt to hard to do acually but I would recommend having a friend come help out(makes it alot easier having someone hold the other end as your drilling,aligning and sinking the screws) and have a s-ton of 4200 sealant on hand.:drink:

Stainless cost a lot to ship so usually your best bet it to find a local source. The inserts are cheap at Barbour plastics in FLA but they will only sell set quantities of most of their extrusions.

www.bowkersfiberglass.com

so,does anybody know how the factory bends a nice ,tight bend around the beak?i have seen a few fountains that have had there rails redone and the bend is not as tight as the factory.