32' Fever Rub Rail Leak Repair?
 

I am about to silicone the rub rail of my 32' and wanted to know what to expect once I start the job.
will i just be pulling out the center rail from the molding and caulking between the 2 pieces? Or once the center molding is removed, will I then need to remove the molding that holds the center rail and add the caulk directly to the gel coat, then reinstall both pieces? If so, how is the molding connected/removed from the boat?

If someone can offer some detailed info and if it fixed the leak i would appreciate the tip. I've done some searched but couldn't find this detailed of info.
FYI I'm pretty sure this is where the leak is coming from. white boat just sitting level in the water, no leak or bilge pump needed. With several people sitting on the transom, the bilge pump comes on once every 3 min. If it's not coming in through the rub rail, is it possible it could be coming in through the bilge pump exhaust hole on side of hull? this hole does go beneath the water line with several people sitting on the back.
Thanks for any info.

They all leak it seems, pull the rubrail completely off & slap some silicone in there... But if its coming on every 3 minutes you may wanna check you bellows & shift bellows....

As I mentioned, the bilge pump only comes on every 3 min if enough people are on the swim step and the transom rub rail is below the water line. if it's above, the pump never comes on.

So as far as getting the old rub rail off, can you tell me how it's connected to the boat? Is there screws every few inches holding the molding onto the boat? Just silicone etc? thx.

I have the older style rubrail on my boat, if yours has the rubber insert in the middle the screws would be behind that every 6 or so inches.... When I did mine I also put a little sealant in all the holes for the screws as I was putting them back in!!

Didn't you PM me on this same topic a couple weeks ago?

question I was out the other day and it seems fountains sit so low, does the bilge come on automatically if you have them off if the water get so high

They come on automatically but you can also force them on manually with a switch.

Not me.

ok it seemed the port on was doing that the other day but not the starboard one.

I have the old style single peice plastic. But your should be the rubber behind that is the screws. I would recommend this dont take it all off at once. Do like 5-10ft strips its alot easier. I did my boat half way the one way of taking it all off the other half I went in steps, that way I did have to have about 4 hands when trying to put the rub rail back on and screwing it in. You will be surprised its pretty dirty under there I just used a rag with windex and then filled the holes with silicon, I actually found old holes for the original rub rail.

If your bilge holes are under water I wouldnt think that would let water in, I would think there would be a check valve but I could be wrong