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Early 90's 32 Fever evaluation
No experience with big boats, or Fountain specifically. I'm looking at a CHEAP 32 Fever, early 90's production, twin 502's. Interior appears to be replaced, outdrives look trashed and owner admitted starboard unit "needs work." I believe it was bought at an auction and not used by current owner.
What should I look for when evaluating? Expect to replace, inherient weaknesses, etc? I'll do my all my own work including motors and drives. What makes sense (money wise) from a drive and motor perspective to get a non-stepped 32 to 90mph. Thanks! Steve |
Originally Posted by morganmtn
(Post 3455684)
No experience with big boats, or Fountain specifically. I'm looking at a CHEAP 32 Fever, early 90's production, twin 502's. Interior appears to be replaced, outdrives look trashed and owner admitted starboard unit "needs work." I believe it was bought at an auction and not used by current owner.
What should I look for when evaluating? Expect to replace, inherient weaknesses, etc? I'll do my all my own work including motors and drives. What makes sense (money wise) from a drive and motor perspective to get a non-stepped 32 to 90mph. Thanks! Steve |
I have about 600hp per side in my 29 with one step and I usually only see 86-88 gps in the summer with the larger pulleys I have on now (3-4 psi boost). With the smaller pulleys (7-8 psi) I run around 700hp and 93-96 gps. I keep the larger pulleys on for reliability and due to the fact I have XRs and I don't want to push them too hard.
All my speeds are at full tank of fuel (155 gal) and boat load (coolers, 1-2 extra riders, all lines, tools, etc.) . I have never really done any testing at 1/4 tank and no load in the boat because I do not boat with a 1/4 tank and nothing in the boat. |
Check out all the stringers, transom, forward bulkheads in the boat. Other then that, the boat should be in good shape.. You all ready said drives might be a issue, along with the engine.. Your def going to need 650+ a side, shorty drives to get in the 90's.. Def can be done though..
John |
Alot of money to get to 90+ in that boat
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Originally Posted by soldier4402
(Post 3457365)
Alot of money to get to 90+ in that boat
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Money wise what do you mean? Boat in perfect shape if probably worth anywhere from 32-38k. If anything neeeds to be fixed subtract that. From what you describe I woul say 27-35k. You can factory in bigger engines just because thats what you want when you negoiate.
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It will get expensive but you can get it there. We've got a pair of 675's that push this old resin bucket pretty close to a buck.
http://www.performanceboats.com/memb...-img-2088.html |
When I said CHEAP I meant it...$15k. I haven't heard the engines run as I was in a hurry when I looked at it, but didn't see an issues (no rods hanging out the side, no busted blocks etc) - oil had been changed, but also appeared to have been run some.
I'm thinking I must be missing something for it to be this cheap...that's why I was asking about how to evaluate. I checked the obvious stuff and the glass all looks good. Outdrives have been in the salt for a long time and are now nice lightweight bravo units. Trailer is a POS, but there is one and it has been pulled with the boat on it recently. |
Morgan, how much is your time worth? Do you have a plethora of mercruiser tools?
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15k is cheap, thats a good buy...........
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I'm looking for a go fast big (over 30') boat that isn't a POS when I'm done - with MINIMAL capital investment.
"time worth"...Judging from the market value of our beach house I remodeled about -$100/hour (and I did a lot of work)...OUCH! I'm looking for a project to replace race car, operational expenses on it are too much for the return...(appx $5000 per weekend - 2 hrs of track time) and nobody in the family gets to ride along. From a labor standpoint I'm used to spending in excess of 100 hours for each hour of 'fun.' As far as tools, I've done our car from chasssis fabrication to engine and transmission work myself - special tools - just make what I need (see labor rate above) and have a fairly complete machine shop. Obviously specality machining (i.e. bore block) I have do pay for. Engineer by trade, so I design and then build whatever I need... Back to the boat: I'm pretty sure both drives on this boat need to go in the trash bin...the lightweight comment was with regards to all of the corrosion. |
Add another 15K for new drives. You will need at least XRs if you want to put the power in it to run 75+.
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like the guys said....probably 650 a side at least.....I'm running 750 a side in a 32' fever with imco shorties and have seen a best of 106 on gps...
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Well i mean big thing is hull anybody can say its got a nice body. Listen to the engine run and check the oil for water. If you have a big issue test drive it. If you got time you have time, but doesnt mean parts dont cost money. PM if you dont take the boat and want to give me the contact info or some pictures I might be interested.
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