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Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 3549134)
I recently heard this too from a tuner, I have always simply used the power supply from the mefi that normally powers the pump to instead turn on a 50 amp Bosch relay to power the pump. Takes stress off the mefi's overall power draw and ensures that your pump will not have a voltage drop under wot and with this "new" problem that has been mentioned it would be a NON issue, Smitty
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I'm not one to speculate on the fuel pump ruining drivers, but most any electric motor when spun by another power source is a generator. Perhaps any residual pressure on the pressure side of the pump, that is not past a check valve will turn the pump over backwards as it "depressurizes" on key off, thus causing some voltage generation, opposite of the pumps intended polarity. Not sure, just a thought.
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Originally Posted by Jpzaluski
(Post 3549661)
I'm not one to speculate on the fuel pump ruining drivers, but most any electric motor when spun by another power source is a generator. Perhaps any residual pressure on the pressure side of the pump, that is not past a check valve will turn the pump over backwards as it "depressurizes" on key off, thus causing some voltage generation, opposite of the pumps intended polarity. Not sure, just a thought.
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Originally Posted by TylerCrockett
(Post 3547252)
After talking to a few GM engineers I found out they had a problem with the Mefi 4a ecu's if the fuel pump spun backwards after shutting the key off it could hurt the fuel pump driver so I was going to upgrade both motors to a mefi 4b to solve that problem.
According to Whipple, the pumps that come with the kit are only good to 900hp. I just bought mine..... I wonder if my kits are different.
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 3548508)
-the fuel needs to be returned to the tank instead of the suction side of the pump.
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All Merc wiring harnesses have a relay for the fuel pump. It is triggered by a small gray wire. There are 2 relays as part of the harness. One turns on the ecm and the other turns on the fuel pump. On my harnesses, we use 10 gauge wires both in and out of the fuel pump relay. However, we are easily able to put the larger wires in the harness when we build it.The wires in the stock Merc efi harness are 16 or 18 gauge. They work fine for the smaller stock pump, but on larger pumps, I prefer the larger gauge wire. The relay is large enough, but making a 6+ ft run with 18 gauge wire could cause a problem. The other option is to let the stock relay with the smaller wires trigger another relay with heavier gauge wires.
Returning the fuel to the tank is always the best option. In pretty much every case, there is at least one way or another to get it back to the tank. Depending on the boat and how the fuel system is run, you could have vapor lock issues as well as aerating the fuel. Look at the Merc 502 Mags. They were famous for vapor locking and they returned the fuel to the tank and that pump was much smaller. The larger the pump, the more fuel it moves, the hotter that fuel gets, the more potential for problems. It's pretty much always easier to return the fuel to the filter head or inlet of the pump, but that doesn't make it the best bet. Eddie |
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 3549975)
All Merc wiring harnesses have a relay for the fuel pump. It is triggered by a small gray wire. There are 2 relays as part of the harness. One turns on the ecm and the other turns on the fuel pump. On my harnesses, we use 10 gauge wires both in and out of the fuel pump relay. However, we are easily able to put the larger wires in the harness when we build it.The wires in the stock Merc efi harness are 16 or 18 gauge. They work fine for the smaller stock pump, but on larger pumps, I prefer the larger gauge wire. The relay is large enough, but making a 6+ ft run with 18 gauge wire could cause a problem. The other option is to let the stock relay with the smaller wires trigger another relay with heavier gauge wires.
Returning the fuel to the tank is always the best option. In pretty much every case, there is at least one way or another to get it back to the tank. Depending on the boat and how the fuel system is run, you could have vapor lock issues as well as aerating the fuel. Look at the Merc 502 Mags. They were famous for vapor locking and they returned the fuel to the tank and that pump was much smaller. The larger the pump, the more fuel it moves, the hotter that fuel gets, the more potential for problems. It's pretty much always easier to return the fuel to the filter head or inlet of the pump, but that doesn't make it the best bet. Eddie |
Originally Posted by LicenseToChill
(Post 3549963)
On my boat the fuel is returned to the water separator which is between the tank and pump. That's what Whipple recommended. Do you feel that this is an issue? Why would returning fuel to the tank be a better option?
It seems that returning to the water separator causes inconsistant fuel pressure. Do you have gauges? Have you compared them to mechanical? |
Originally Posted by TxHawk
(Post 3550128)
Do you have 4 tanks or 2?
It seems that returning to the water separator causes inconsistant fuel pressure. Do you have gauges? Have you compared them to mechanical? |
Originally Posted by LicenseToChill
(Post 3550323)
There are 2 tanks. I just installed electric gauges on the dash and mechanical ones at the regulator. I only made 1 short run after installing them, but when I checked at idle and at 3500 they were about the same. I'll pay attention to them to see if the pressure stays consistent. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to return the fuel to the tank. I'm guessing that's why Whipple put a fuel cooler on the return line.
If there are no spare bungs on the tank, this is the easiest way. Split the fuel fill hose and return there. |
I put the Imco 6 port electric fuel switching valves on mine and plumed it so it returns to the tank it is sucked from , cut the filler necks and made my own tees , with the Imco valves the fuel guages follow the tanks its pulled from and you can switch tanks right from the dash , the factory switching valves I think are very restrictive and dont look to appealing .
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