Originally Posted by carcommander (Post 3506469)

When I was a kid I built motors for my cars. I was always tweaking or fixing something that broke. If you enjoy it then have at it. Its not cheap and you really need two boats.

Originally Posted by TRL505 (Post 3507005)

Not bragging...but we have 5 more boats between our family. We have learned that at least 2 are broke down at the same time. :lolhit:

Originally Posted by MrSneakAttack (Post 3507138)

what is the timing set at?

Originally Posted by 575cat (Post 3510594)

Hey TRL any news , whats goin on , have they got them back together yet , just checking in .

Originally Posted by TRL505 (Post 3510800)

but still waiting on a custom cut piston to fill the #4 hole that needed bored out.

Originally Posted by SS930 (Post 3504008)

I feel for you guys, this sounds really frusterating... and expensive!!!

Tyler, it really appears you will have covered the basics well. I'm sure this is a stupid question, but are you 100% sure the head(s) and block are straight?

And FWIW, regardless if the lack of studs is associated with this reoccurring issue or not, I'm shocked they weren't in there in the first place!

Originally Posted by 29scarab10 (Post 3504846)

The engine builder in this case did not build complete new engines with all new accessories. He rebuilt 6 year old engines with some 6 year old accessories. If one of these 6 your old accessories caused the problem why should the engine be one the hook?

If it were me, when the engines go back in the engine builder would have his laptop hooked up looking at the called for timing numbers and being verifyed with a timing light First through out the rpm range under no load and then again while under load.

Ofcourse most engine builder will not like this comment because who wants to be in engine compartment at speed with lots off hot stuff and turning belts. Most would agree to due it on the dyno, but ultimately the engine lives (or not) inside the engine compartment.
Allen

Originally Posted by lil red (Post 3510952)

detonation

Originally Posted by 1 MAIDEN AMERICA (Post 3510918)

One oddball piston????

Originally Posted by 575cat (Post 3511255)

Hope it works out for you , cant wait to see the results !

Originally Posted by TRL505 (Post 3511096)

Correct....the #4 hole.

Two more pistons were damaged on the opposite side of the block..but no damage was done to cylinder walls so he was able to order shelf pistons.

Originally Posted by TxHawk (Post 3511664)

So you have money invested equal to that of completely new engines and you have mix matched pistons? What are the bore diameters now? What block?

Originally Posted by TRL505 (Post 3511702)

Dart blocks...540ci. The #4 hole is either .0020 or .0050 over now....cant remember. All other pistons are standard 540ci.

Trust me...this isnt they way I wanted this to go down.

Originally Posted by 29scarab10 (Post 3499569)

The motors started life as 500 efi's.The motors are now 555 cubic inchs, have afr 357 cnc heads with Vortech Superchargers, and make a little more power than the 850 (that I call them)however when someone looks in hatch and sees the stock 500 efi intake they do not believe the power they make. They actually made a little more than 1000 in both horsepower and torque. However I am unable to turn them to 5800 rpm in the boat regardless of the prop used which is were it made over 1000. I really believe the 500 efi intake are not able to flow enough volume to support the rpms I would like. I can put on a pair of 31's and spin 5700 or I can spin 34's 5600. My engine builder warned me about this and it will likely get changed before next year

My x dimnesion is 18" and I am running SCX uppers with -2 sc lowers with 1.3? gears ( the scx uppers are geared a little different so I do not now the exact number). Prop is Mercury labbed 34 maximus with 15 1/4" diamater.

The only problem I have had with drives is during the middle of this summer one drive developed a shifting problem. We tore the upper apart and the gears looked brand new (encouraging). The shifting problem turned out to be Imco puts a rubber plug in the hole above the shift shaft. The plug is to long and after a little wear on the cone clutch it would no longer shift. I cut the plug in half and it has been problem free since. The drives are 2 seasons old and have about 180 hours and close to 7000 miles on them. The first season of these drives they had 850 horsepower and 800 foot pounds of torque (about 100 hours and 4000 miles). i guess with all this talk about breaking these lowers we will tear them down over the winter and have a look.

I should also mention that i really believe in Torco #6 drive fluid in these drives. I believe when you use like mercury High performance gear oil that it is so thick that it get slung away from the gears and flows slowly and can not get back into contact with gears (kind of forms an airpocket around the gears) where as the torco flows very similar to water even cold. I have no proof of this but have had great results after changing.

The boat has been 117.9 MPH and this was during August. When the water and air temp cools down I really expect this number to grow.

If you have any more questions I will try my best to answere them.
Allen

Originally Posted by Real Fast Marine (Post 3513922)

Give us a call at 252.561.6070 for a service quote....we can talk shop and work with you to accomplish what you want to do within budget......you may also be interested in our high performance driving school. We offer one on one instruction in YOUR BOAT!! Our company is founded by Reggie Fountain and sons and we are all at anyone's disposal that is looking to improve performance or cosmetics.

Originally Posted by 575cat (Post 3520462)

change of plans , got my 7 blades fri and didnt open the box sent them back I am going to the SCX -4 drives and #6 props , I just figured the lowers are the next weakest link and 7 blades would be more strain , this way I can have the props higher yet .

Originally Posted by 1 MAIDEN AMERICA (Post 3522655)

The furnace in my house makes a ticking sound when I flush the toilet ever since I replaced the front porch light.
I was just wondering how to get my 56K modem working faster.

Originally Posted by triple 300s (Post 3522915)

buy a new house...and modem...