Port side bilge pump
 

I have a 2000 32 fever with twin 502s is it possible with out removing the engine to replace the bilge pump mine doesnt work

I have a 29 w/454s. Find the smallest guy you know and get him down in there. Paying him 50 bucks was worth it.

my buddy had a 2001 32 w/502,s.the starboard pump went south and had to be r/r.everyone told him that the motor would have to come out.he found some small guy that said he has done a bunch.he was able to get it.saved a bunch.

Like said before find a small guy or do like I did and squeeze in there. Its not easy but some interesting maneuvers and you can do it. Its like the worst game of twister ever! :lolhit:

Big or small we all have a place in this world it's just the smallest we shove in the bilge.

Remove the exhaust manifold.

One of mine has stopped working also, I'm going to add another one just in frt. of the original pump until I pull the engines out during the off season. I just don't like the idea of not having a back up, just in case.
Does anybody know what size the hose diameter is on the original pump? I forgot to check before leaving the lake this past weekend.

My port pump goes on, so I know the float works and kicks in, but it doesn't pump water and runs until I pull the outside plugs to drain the water or suck it out with my oil pump kit. Any ideas?

Been there, done that on my old 32. support hatch, remove hatch lift, kneel on starboard side bilge, lay over stringer and remove front screws, from above I used about 3 feet of 1/4 drive extensions with a phillips bit on the end to get the rear screws. I also put a good size "booger" of butyl tape on the bit to make the screw stick to the bit. butyl tape is a rope caulk that is very sticky. also, I taped the extensions so they wouldn't fall apart.
p.s. if a pump runs but won't pump water it likely needs belts or the shaft is stuck, that's why i replaced mine. the belts are easy to replace and available from Lovett.

My mechanic said he might be able to get to the pump if he removed both center exhaust manifolds. Geeze. It almost seems easier to put a new pump right in front of the old pump. With 180 hours on black motor small blocks the port or starboard engine will not be coming out anytime soon. I'll have to think about this one...
Thanks.

I thought about it a long time when mine went out. I pulled the port motor and replaced both pumps at the same time. Replaced plugs on both engines also. I believe I had it out and back in quicker than I could of put my fat ass in the bilge and wrestled them out.

My port pump is on a auto switch like all of yours is im sure. This past weekend the switch got stuck on and I could not get it to turn off. Same as all of you guys I could get to it. What a piss poor place to put the bilige pump. You would have thought it would be in fron of the engines where you could reach them. They will be after I pull my engines.

Seriously, when I did this on the 32 I had it only took about 1 1/2 hours to replace. No pulling manifolds or engines. The pumps need to be all the way back there at the lowest point, otherwise you'd always have about 4" of water in the bilge. When putting the rear screws back in you can also use tape to hold the screw on the phillips bit. see instructions from page 1, don't let 4 screws kick your butt

Thank you. I can see where that could work out. I will sure as hell try it. I have enough extentions to lose at least three set under the engine too. Seriously thanks for the feed back.

I unhook the wires and slide the trim pumps up off their mounts and lay them over the rear seat back , be careful not to twist the hyd hoses, and that was enough room that allows me to lay down in front of the motors to reach under them. Works for me, your size may say otherwise

check the pumpout hose before removing the bilge pump, hose may be plugged, mine was same deal, hose was plugged.

oooops, forgot to mention what US1 said. remove trim pumps, just be careful, don't let the pumps lean over or you'll have a huge mess