Power steering pump problem
 

Finally get our new (to us) Fountain out and it blows the power steering within 20 min of leaving the dock. We were a little pissed to say the least, but I guess it could have been worse. Crusing along at about 45mph when the steering stiffens. Open the hatch and the belts on but slipping, the top stup on the steering pump broke off flush with the nut on the pump. We head home, docking isn't fun with a new boat and no power steering, and take off the pump. Here comes the tough part, how to get the little piece of stud out of the nut which is only about 1/4" deep. It's too shallow for an easy out or to drill without going into the pump housing. I'm thinking of having someone remove the old nut and tack weld on a new one. Any ideas, I don't want to waste a lot of valuable boating time.
Due to the Latham steering it has a fitting on top which connects to a resavour of steering fluid so a standard auto pump won't work.
My boat is sitting because of a .75 stud!!!

Mate-
I could be wrong, but I think the internal pump body is an automotive pump. The pump body is mounted inside of a sheet metal shell. There are 3 types of shells that I know of for cars: two that have the reservior area above the pump, and 1 that has the reservior mounted remotely. The shell for that unit is round with a nopple that a large (5/8?) diameter hose connects to, and a reservior "can" that is about the size of a 12oz coke can, maybe somewhat larger. This pump came on the Chevy Duallys- my 78 had that setup. Look at the front of the punp and you can see a parting line about 1/4 inch from the outside lip.

Anyway, the pump body is the same for all three units, and is held in from the back by a couple of studs which have a hex 'nut' machined onto them- it is NOT a separate part. There is also a check valve which the high-pressure line connects to, that also has to be removed to take the pump body out. There are O-rings under these parts to seal the assembly. The shell is sheet metal, and should come off by tapping LIGHTLY around the perimeter with a soft (pine) block. It is thin, and can be easily distorted.

If the stud broke off and you can't get it out with an easy-out, a rebuilt pump body is only about $45 from NAPA, and it takes about 10 minutes to change once the pump is off. You could then take it to someone to remove the broke part later on and have a spare.

I hope this helps, and let me know if you need more help- I check email and this board often.

Bulldog aka Ronnie

Mate,
Bulldog is correct. Fountain takes the stock Merc pump and welds the cap to it for the reservoir. I would think a car pump would work. Just change out the tank. Any idea what caused the part to fail?
Dan

A friend had told me about reverse drill bits. Since I learned about these, I go down & buy bit smaller than what I am trying to remove. Most times as soon as I start drilling (drill in reverse) the part comes out. I will never use an easy out again.

Thanks for all the input guys, I learned a tough lesson. After removing the pump, I have a Procharger which has piping all over the front of the engine, I learned this is a screw in stud!!! All I needed to do was loosen the bottom bolt, pull the pump away from the engine a little and unscrew the broken stud. I found this out after removing it and taking it to a race car fabricator
( we sponsor a new Busch car #22). He looked at it, got a wrench and made me a new stud with a grinder and tap. I now know I don't have to remove the pump and get ATF fluid everywhere, what a mess.
I have no idea why it sheared off. We were cruising along about 50mph and not running hard when it happened.