Another "logo light, speaker replacement" thread
 

Hey guys, just like it sounds, I'd like to add a couple speakers where the logo lights are now. I haven't done stereo upgrades since I was in high school and never in a marine application so please bear with me. I'm looking at adding JL 6.5 or 7.7 inch speakers in those locations. I started with removing the plastic logo lights and found that they are not completely bored through. To install the speakers do I need to cut a hole through the wood and fiberglass to allow the speaker to recess into the gunwal? I've done a few searches on here and have found countless threads of pictures of the finished speakers, and some info, but nothing specific on how guys have drilled/bored. If I have to do such, should I go with the 6.5's or the 7.7's? I see where the hole size is kind of in between both speaker sizes, and some people have used a plastic ring as a shim for the smaller 6.5 speakers. I'm also going to change the clarion deck to a kenwood, along with a new hardwired remote. Any suggestions or heads up on how to do that? It looks like there is only one wire attached to the current clarion remote so maybe I can just use the exhisting, or did I miss something?
I'm going to end up installing an amp, and putting it under the back bench, so installing power, and speaker wiring looks pretty straight forward. Thanks in advance for the advice.

Been contemplating same thing with regards to the light/speaker switch. Have the amp mounted near driver's foot in front of the little hatch door. Need to install a remote that the wife can fiddle with, but would also like to add one near the transom for when we're at the beach or swimming< just hate to be drilling holes all over since technology keeps changing every year< don't want to be stuck with outdated remotes that i had to drill holes for.

I came across the same issue on my boat. I added a cover plate of sorts to cover the holes on my boat. Covered with vinyl, mounted the speakers, then mounted the plate right over the original holes. PM your email and I'll send a pic that gives you and idea.

Pm sent, thanks griswald!!

I needed to go 8 " to cover the marks left by the logo. Looked factory and no trim ring. Cutting wood and glass in small amounts. Fine line between enough and two much. Still need material left for screws.

I took down the mirror in the left front cabin, Great access to run wires to the battery & head unit and kept the amp from getting so damp in the back. Hooked it to the cabin light toggle at the helm to shut down the stereo when I need it off in a hurry and put the remote in the main dash near the steering wheel. Worked out great. 4 Jbl's in the cockpit,, stock in the cabin and two woofers under the back seat..

I just ordered 4 JL 6.5's and a new kenwood deck and hardwire remote to replace originals. Krutchfield said i'll have everything monday so i'll take some pictures as i go. Thanks for help guys

I have 6 clarion 6.5 speakers in the cockpit and two alpines in the cabin. The cabin runs off the deck the Clarions all run off a Polk 660a and I have a Polk 1200.1 to run my subs I just have to get my boxes made for my subs. I am also contemplating adding two more cockpit speakers and deleting the emblems as well for a total of 8 in the cockpit.

You probably saw one of my threads on our old 27. I used JL 7.7's, as well as LED speaker rings for a couple of reasons.

- I wanted the 7.7's (duh!)
- the gunnel really wasn't deep enough to mount the 7.7's, as they are quite deep
- the black circles that the lights left on the white vinyl would not come off, so I wanted to hide that
- I really didn't want to cut in to fiberglass

Good luck with your project. I also mounted some JL 10's at storage compartments at front seats. I just used the door assemblies as a template and cut out starboard. Used existing mounting screws, and it came out looking really good. Those storage compartments in the front are useless anyway.

see mine had brand new interior in it so the dark ring is a non issue mine is wether I want to cut the gunnel or not

If you want any low frequency response out of the speakers you have to open up behind them.

here's mine , got the spacers from waves & wheels, no cutting or trimming required

how much were they?

Be sure to check behind there. On some the tube chase for wires is right there

I cant remember it was a few years ago.. $50 maybe

Ran dom, do you think there is a difference between your lightning style deck/ gunwal vs my fever? I didn't measure for sure, but from where the gunwal fiberglass is to the edge of the upholstry is only a couple inches. Do you think those rings you suggested will make up the difference of the JL 6.5's so I don't have to do any fiberglass cutting? In theory if I can make the speakers look good without cutting anything I'd rather do that. Also it was mentioned before that without some free air around the speaker that is will be muffled, will this affect the sound?

It will affect how low the speaker will play. Low frequency moves air,,,,, on both sides of the cone.

If the air doesn't have anywhere to go on the back side,,,, the cone doesn't move. I did a test once in a truck ford supplied putting different size speakers in the "C" pillars. A 4" went as low as any 5x7 or 6x9, and the 6x9 I used in the right location would easily go down to 60hz.

Mid range was much better with the 4" of course so it was a waste to go any bigger.

I think I'm going to cut the fiberglass out for the better sound quality. I should have everything on Monday so I'll begin the installation then, I'll take some pictures as I go and post back.

This is a JL 7.7 with an LED trim ring on my old 27'. No cutting of vinyl or glass.

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Made a spacer ring from acrylic to cover the black stain rings. Depth was ok, so the speakers are recessed into the rings 1/4" or thereabouts so they didn't stick out. The black color was achieved by putting black vinyl on the back side. Gave it a clear black glass look. Could use any color if you want

Looks good!