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Stupid shore power question
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So when people put the outlets in the cabin like this picture is there a box behind the outlet like in home wiring?
Or do they just screw the outlet to the plastic? [ATTACH=CONFIG]537755[/ATTACH] |
Dont know about yours but mine has a box behind them.
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Mine have boxes too
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I haven't put mine in yet, what kind of box?
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Standard "old work" box would do.
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Now I am starting to think,,,,,, (not a good thing).
The breaker panel I have (Blue seas) didn't come with a cover. Does your guys have the breaker panel covered? |
Don't forget to install a galvanic isolator.
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My panel has a tinted plexiglass cover on two small hinges on it but the panel is resisted in.
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US1,
Got that from Lewis marine. Mach I think you mean on the front? I was wondering if anyone put one of the covers on the back. My only reason for this concern is the typical mounting location on a fountain is real close to the DC wiring and switches. |
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Phil, that's where I have all my electrical stuff. The Outlet is in a remodel box, with the SP panel on the back side. It's not too bad. My SP panel does not have an enclosure on the backside to house all the AC breaker connections/wiring. I even have my A/C flex duct running up inside there.
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Thanks Jerry.
Other then the AC That is how I'll do it. Finally getting close should be in the water this year!!!!!!! |
Not to hijack, but it sounds like there is enough knowledge to possibly answer my question.
2002 35' Fountain Lightning Shore power with breaker panel (factory installed). 1) when on shorepower, I flip the breaker for fridge and it doesn't come on. 2) when on battery power, fridge works fine. 3) when on shore power, I flip breaker for the AC outlet, and there is no power available at the outlet. VERY likely, user error - is there a book or website somewhere that describes how this is supposed to work??? Appreciate it! |
Start with the basics 1st
Are you sure you are getting power from the SP pedestal? Breaker at pedistal on? SP cord good, no burnt contacts? Does your voltage gauge read you are getting 120VAC to your panel when the main is flipped on? It's really no different than your home electrical as far as operation. |
Also, make sure your fridge is plugged into the outlet behind the fridge. Mine was not working, pulled the fridge and noticed the plug was not plugged into the outlet box behind the cabinet. Duh!!! Don't know how it came out, but it must be plugged in to work.
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NP easy rider.
Jerry, Do you have a good picture of where you put your outside connector? Also how big was your isolator? Physical size that is. |
My battery charger works properly with shore power cable plugged in and charger breaker on.
The fridge works fine with DC breaker on, so I'm assuming plugged in?? But maybe it is also direct wired?? I've never checked. With main breaker on, and AC fridge breaker on, the fridge does not come on. Fridge works great on the DC/batteries. I don't have a voltage gauge on the breaker panel.
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 4272799)
Start with the basics 1st
Are you sure you are getting power from the SP pedestal? Breaker at pedistal on? SP cord good, no burnt contacts? Does your voltage gauge read you are getting 120VAC to your panel when the main is flipped on? It's really no different than your home electrical as far as operation. |
Stupid question, but are you sure the fridge is an AC/DC? If AC/DC, it will be wired for both types, not just a single plug.
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Phil, I put the plug where it is in line with the gas fill, vent, and pop out cleat, so it wouldn't be under the cockpit cover holding it out. Plus that is were I've seen it located on other Fountains from factory. I also didn't want to put it right above the rub rail in the graphics, but now I wish I would have. I think it might have looked better and possibly less noticeable. But were it is, is right there inside the open void behind the upper cabin plexiglass panel. For location wise, it was perfect with lots of room. Not that lower above rubrail wouldn't have worked. Think long and hard, drill once, then wish you woulda gone with option B. :) But in all honesty, never think a thing about it anymore.
No idea on GI size. 4x6x2 ?????? There is a lot of room to mount it on the cockpit/cabin bulkhead inside the passenger side storage compartment in front of the fuel fill hose. Just gotta stick your head/ hand in the there to mount it. Piece of cake. For those infrequent users, can mount it inside at passengers feet. If you don't mind the cord over the side |
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I think you can see where I installed my shore power plug.
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I am not sure. I have fridge breakers for both AC and DC. I've never pulled it out to see. (that didn't sound good).
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 4272863)
Stupid question, but are you sure the fridge is an AC/DC? If AC/DC, it will be wired for both types, not just a single plug.
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So I guess we are back to basic basics. :)
Are you turning off the DC breaker when you try the AC breaker? Leave both on. The fridge will default to AC if AC is present. Trying to understand why the fridge is off when you flip the AC breaker on, unless it is a DC only fridge and the DC breaker is off, as long as there are no issues somewhere and it's wired up. See if there is a power label inside the door. As for the outlet not working either, is it the GFI by the sink? Reset button in? |
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 4273418)
So I guess we are back to basic basics. :)
Are you turning off the DC breaker when you try the AC breaker? Leave both on. The fridge will default to AC if AC is present.
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 4273418)
Trying to understand why the fridge is off when you flip the AC breaker on, unless it is a DC only fridge and the DC breaker is off, as long as there are no issues somewhere and it's wired up.
See if there is a power label inside the door. When I turn main breaker on, turn fridge DC breaker on, fridge is on.
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 4273418)
As for the outlet not working either, is it the GFI by the sink? Reset button in?
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You may want to look into the outlet, or leave the breaker off. Wouldn't be good to have a live wire hanging.
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Well just getting to this and have it all taped off and ready to cut. When I drilled a couple of starter holes seems the plastic wants to snap off. Stopped and was wondering what have others used to cut this stuff with?
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Are you talking about the plexiglass? Take a drill bit and knock the sharp edges off with a grinder, so that the cutting edges are parallel to the drill centerline to where it looks like you will be scraping the plexy off, vs cutting thru it. Kinda like a carbide tipped cement drill. Otherwise with a sharp bit doing it by hand, the drill will want to screw into the plastic and break it out when the tip breaks thru the back side. Unless you can slowly feed the drill in w/o it catching. Drill it to size 1st time, don't step drill.
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Yes the plexi. Can I cut the straight lines with a saber saw?
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Yes, fine tooth blade and go easy with it
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