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Drain headers after every use?
Just curious what everyones oppinon is on draining tubular stainless headers after every use? I gather it can only help if nothing else. I always drain for winter storage but many drain after runs for cheap insurence. My only concern would be starting up the engines with the distribution tubes being dry. With water immediatly entering upon start up would this be a non issue? Just concerned with over heating upon startup. Just looking to see what everyone thinks. Thanks
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I have drains but leave the full, they have salt-away or dawn fill fresh water in them and I have had some mechanical engineers say less likely to rust.
IDK I would and did over winter but not since living in FL. I would think if you do develop a leak but they are drained how would you know? I get filling a cyl up with water isn't good but I don't know if a starter has enough power to bend anything. Most threads like this say drain. Full disclosure, mine are E tops and original. Not leaks no issues. I do know stagger motors put a lot more strain on the joint and did see one rigging where they supported the header/ tail pipe joint with a bracket off of the belhousing. |
Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4679780)
I get filling a cyl up with water isn't good but I don't know if a starter has enough power to bend anything. Most threads like this say drain.
Your seawater pump will fill your headers back up no problem. |
Yes, starters can bend connecting rods.
It's surprising how many times an engine that is torn down for other reasons, have a bent rod or two, and usually have had them for years. |
Well maybe I'll start draining, but as I am on a lift then I'll have to suck the water out of the bilge every time. That's a bit of a pain.
SB, Amazing that they could run with a bent rod considering how close some of the rods come to the bore sides. That is crazy. I am lucky never bent a rod but I have busted more then a few. So to the OP DRAIN. |
There’s a thread in here from not long ago about installing automatic drains on headers. |
thank you for the responses, just wanted to see what you guys thought on the matter. Many have said drain them, being it can only help if nothing else (cheap and easy insurence). headers are not cheap, just want to do whatever i can to keep them alive as long as possible
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Running non ethanol fuel will help also
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It’s better to drain them, if they stay full all the time the welds are more likely to develop crevice corrosion |
Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4679829)
Running non ethanol fuel will help also
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Ethanol will eat, de laminate stainless over a period of time
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April fools? |
When I had CMI's, I always drained them. It was very easy to do, just two thumbscrews. After hearing all the bad press about 525's and CMI's, I figured it couldn't hurt.
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Dave M, totally agree. spent $12K for 2 sets of CMI headers, in 8 months I had a pinhole in one of the tubes. I am extremely anal about flushing after every use. CMI said it was from salt. I boat in the north part of the Chesapeake, it's way more fresh than salt in my area.
Bottom line.....CMI headers are garbage and, they don't stand behind their junk, cost me $400 in shipping to get it repaired 8 months after purchase |
A few years ago I pulled the drain plugs on mine and made 1/8 inch weeper tubes so they empty when off .
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Originally Posted by 575cat
(Post 4705791)
A few years ago I pulled the drain plugs on mine and made 1/8 inch weeper tubes so they empty when off .
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I do not have a pic , I have underwater exh routed from R&L header to a tee then put a nipple to the cast elbow which exits the transom .
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You guys ever see how fast and how hot headers get when you drain them right away? I think that’s worse for them than leaving water in for a while. |
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